1999 Explorer XLT V6 4 Door. So my 4WD was randomly kicking in and out to the point that it was intolerable. Don't have the $$$ for a repair, so the mechanic disconnected the plug from the 4wd motor. Now the car is doing all sorts of crazy electrical stuff. Is there a way to more surgically disable the 4wd without the unwanted electrical freak-outs?
View 1 Replies4.6L engine.......Well my A/C isn't working I just found out. The compressor is not kicking on. I checked the charge with my gauges and it is good so I don't think the low limit switch tripped, but I don't have a manual or anything and was wondering which number relay and fuse goes to the A/C compressor.
I also need to know which fuse goes to the power mirrors as well. I downloaded a manual from the ford fleet site, but honestly I haven't gotten around to looking at it. Not home.
How many gear shifts I should have on my 6.0 2004 super duty, Ive counted 5 but it seems not to be in overdrive, I'm running a little over 2000 rpms at 65 mph?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
View 2 RepliesThis is the first winter for my truck, and the first time I've driven a truck in the winter. I struggled to get out of my street this morning, through 15" of unplowed heavy snow. As the traction control seems to engage, and even sometimes when it doesn't, the truck literally shakes very violently. I even had to lock the rear diff to get out this morning, but that didn't seem to make the shaking any worse. What causes the shaking? Is it just my truck? I've driven Land Rovers with full-time 4x4 for years, never any shaking even when they are spinning like crazy and traction control is operating. One thing I did learn that seemed to be a question of several on this forum...traction control does operate on the front wheels when 4x4 is engaged, in addition to the rears.
View 14 RepliesBought a 2014 SD 4x4 in December of 2013 and this is the second time the big girl has been to the shop with A/C problems. First time it was the evaporator about three or four months ago. During the last few weeks of the summer I began to smell something strange (like band-aids) when the A/C was on and it lingered until the next re-entry. ALso, began to hear a slight hissing noise when the compressor was kicking in and out. They replaced the evaporator, smell remained as they said it was the refrigerant I was smelling. About two or three weeks ago the smell got slightly "larger", and last weekend she would not cool. This is the fourth time shes been to the shop with other problems such as the My Touch system..............
View 7 RepliesWhen running and turned off, after 5 minutes of being on, the headlights blink on and off randomly. The only way to stop it is holding the brights/blinker/wipers wand back to temporarily engage the brights. Pushing the wand forward to fully engage the brights does not stop the blinking. Not fun for night driving!
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Explorer Eddy B model with 74K miles. When I drive it randomly "Jitters". The event is difficult to describe. It happens anytime; hot or cold, at start-up or after being on the road a while, when I accelerate or am at a constant speed, on cruise control or not. The only time it is not prone to happen is going up a steep incline.
The engine cuts out several times in very quick succession, or once for about 1-2 seconds. It sort of feels like a series of backfires, or that the transmission is trying to find a gear it wants to be in (as I said, this happens even on a level road at a constant speed). When the event takes place, the tach intermittently and quickly goes from the hormonal 1500 rpm (or so) to around 2500 rpm, then returns to normal.
This occurs more often lately.
There is no engine light, so putting it on a test machine is not yet an option. I have changes all the filters and uses the gas stuff to eliminate water. I let the tank get down to 50 miles of driving time and then always fill the tank.
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. For about the last year some of the dash lights have been turning on and off randomly and intermittently. The three lights are the check engine, the airbag and less frequently, the check gauge light. It seems like there's some connection between the lights because often when one comes on so does another and often one will turn off, but immediately another will turn on. My mechanic (not a Ford dealer) tried to fix the check engine light by diagnosing and fixing the indicated codes, but a day later the light came back on. It stayed on for a week, then one morning it stayed off, but the airbag light came on. Is there some electronic (or other) component that links these three lights and could be causing this situation?
View 1 RepliesI have an 07 explorer that has developed an new problem. While driving, I lose all throttle, regardless of whether I'm accelerating or just cruising along. I've checked the vacuum lines and fuels filter and pump to no avail. It. Has progressed from a once a week to the point that it's not drivable.
View 4 RepliesMy friend has a 2004 explorer v6 150k miles. Randomly shuts off while normal driving just going down the road, and when you try to restart it it starts up and runs fine. This used to happen every few months and is getting more frequent. The only code it has is a lean code from the o2 sensor, I'm trying to get more info on that but it's been like that before this problem started and possibly just a bad o2 sensor. Where to start and any know issues that would cause this? Sounds like a wiring issue are there any spots in particular prone to chaffing?
View 3 RepliesA couple of times since the weather has warmed up, a strange situation occurred with this car.
Turn on the a/c...interior cools off normally. After a while being on though...presumably when the motor is nice and hot...the engine starts acting weird. The temp gauge is right where its supposed to be, but here's the symptoms.
Press the throttle to speed up..and the motor slows down stumbles real bad. let up and it returns to pretty normal idle. if you floor it to get past the 'stumble zone' mostly it works right, but it feels like power is kicking in and out, to the point where you want to pull over because you're not sure if the car is safe to drive.
I'm talking stumble like the motor is about to kill. like its ignoring the input to open the throttle. This car has the hard wired throttle cable, so it can't be anything with an electronic throttle. If we drive around and never turn on the a/c....the symptoms do not occur.
What to check for this? No check engine lights on other than the typical abs lights.
I have a 2006 Explorer with the 4.6 liter V8.
The airbag light on the dash comes on randomly after start up. It lights up solid and does not flash a code. I hooked up my code reader to it and it shows no code as well.
As part of my observations I have noticed that the passenger air bag off light comes on and goes off even when the seat is empty.
My door ajar light & bell goes on and off at random. It's also setting off the alarm when the doors are locked. What might be causing this.
View 14 RepliesYesterday my lady's 2001 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC was running like a top and then suddenly after sitting parked for a couple hours it would crank but not start. After letting it sit for an hour or so it cranked and seemed to run ok. She drove a mile or so and it died at a stop light. It wouldn't start for a few minutes and then finally started but in limp mode. The engine was shaking and barely able to idle so she pulled into a parking spot and I came and checked it out and we had to have it towed home. This problem is just out of the blue suddenly with no warning.
Today I was able to get it to start but it shook really badly and was running like it possibly wasn't getting the right air/fuel mixture. There is no check engine light on. At one point today I realized that once it started and was idling horribly and shaking I could press the gas pedal just slightly and hold it there and the rpms would slowly go up and then the engine would smooth out. If I slowly gave it gas I could get the engine up to 3000 rpms and then it would hesitate and drop the rpms back down to 2500. If I try to rev the engine quickly it acts like the engine is flooding or starving and chokes and stalls.
It has 111k miles on it. She has only owned it for 6 months but it has ran flawlessly to this point, other than one random time that it just died at a stop light shortly after she got it.
I'm not familiar with these 4.0L SOHC engines and I'm not really sure where to start. The coolant was low, maybe 1/2 - 2/3 full in the radiator but she said that it did not overheat and she pays attention to her temperature gauge because she's had overheating issues in other vehicles in the past. This coolant has to be going somewhere. Hopefully it's not an intake or head gasket issue. We have not noticed any leaks and the oil was just changed last week and there is no coolant in the oil. The engine doesn't smoke at all either.
Maybe I need to buy a OBD scanner and check the air/fuel mixtures? I recently ordered a cheap ODBII bluetooth dongle for my android phone but the piece of junk only worked once so I have to order a different one. My girlfriend has to work in 2 days and I need to get this figured out ASAP.
My wife drives a 2004 2WD Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC motor. We have had a problem now for over a year and a half of it randomly dying. There is not telling when the engine might die besides the fact that it happens when you let off the accelerator to brake or make a turn. It only happens at slow speeds. At a stop light or stop sign usually. The car will always start right back up. It has been to a couple of Ford dealerships and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem. The check engine light is on and it is giving the code p0456. This code definition is an EVAP small leak detected. Probable causes for the code are:
1. Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap.
2. EVAP Canister broke, hose cracked or not connected.
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective.
4. Vacuum leak at engine.
I don't think it's the fuel cap that would be making the car die. I used carburetor cleaner (I know its not the safest ) and sprayed on the vacuum lines that I could find to try and diagnose a vacuum line leak but nothing seemed to effect the engine. Do one of the other probable causes from p0456 could be causing the dying or could it be something else???
So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
Took the family up into Michigan this weekend to go play out on Silver Lake sand dunes and do some camping up there. We towed our 27ft travel trailer which weighs about 6500-7000lbs so its not to terribly heavy. Well on the way up we were hitting some hills and with the heavy traffic the truck was kicking in and out of OD so i shut it off. Was doing good with everything until we came up to a stop light and there was a big puff of smoke that came out from under the truck.
We pulled over into a gas station and looked at. It looked like trans fluid was coming from the front of the bell housing or the little plug at the bottom of the trans towards the front. Couldn't really tell where it was coming from. We let it cool down for about an hour and added a a little fluid to it kept on driving. After that we had no problems with it for the rest of the weekend and that even included the 200 mile trip back home. I left the OD on for the trip back home.
Do you all think the trans is ok and could probably just use a good flush and new coolant or should i take it in somewhere to look at maybe getting it rebuilt? Im gonna add a good trans cooler and gauge to it so i can monitor it a little better. This is all on a 2000 EX v10.
Also, since I have 3.73 gears in this truck and its our dedicated tow rig, would it be wise to swap in some 4.10 or 4.30 gears to support it out a little bit? I know the v10 likes to rev going down the road but want the rest of the truck to last as well. We are looking at getting a bigger camper down the road and want the truck to be able to handle it safely and tow it without struggling as much.
1-My Ex steering is very heavy and some times kicking, I don't have any fluid leaks and my steering shock looks nice and clean, I did check and lubricate the ball joints.
2- how did the big 3 wire upgrade in v10, I need some pictures for grounding wires locations like engine to body, battery to body, chassis to body. Because I got a new 300 amp alternator to juicing my truck stuff and to power up the 3000w power inverter.
3- The engine exhaust fumes is so strong making my eyes burning ← . What I did is new coils pack, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter , cleaned the injectors , checked the exhaust for leaks, cleaned the throttle.
But it's no different, I had this problem sense Day1 .
I sold a buddy of mine my dad's old 1997 Ford Ranger XLT with about 100,000 miles. It passed an inspection and was in good condition. Afterwards we both noticed it had a kicking sound in the transmission as you were cruising with it. It was variable but on average about every 20 mins or so. My buddy thought it was probably due to overfilling with fluid so he had it flushed but the problem still remains. He thinks it gets worse as it heats more. We're not sure what the problem is.
View 4 Replies2012 F150 FX4 ecoboost electric fans not kicking on. I've checked all the fuses and relays and the are good.
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