Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Truck Won't Start / Can Of Starting Fluid Didn't Squirt
Nov 3, 2014
Twice in the past week our truck wouldn't start. The first time I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started. This morning I went to the Dr and when I got out it wouldn't start again and my can of starting fluid didn't squirt. I called my wife and had her bring another can but in the mean time I changed the fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood and it started reluctantly, it sputtered at first until I put some pedal to it. I don't think that is the problem. I got it home and checked the codes, there were none. I'd say fuel filter but it runs good at high speed. If there were no spark there would be a code so I assume it's fuel related. It's run perfectly since I acquired it last year.
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Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
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So I have a 2012 Accent, recently as the temperature dropped my windshield fluid wasn't spraying well and would just squirt (weak spray). Realized that I had summer fluid, so I emptied out the fluid and added new winter fluid the windshield pump would work fine when my car is warmed up and in the garage and even after I've left it out in the cold for a few while. Once I took the car out and started driving it started to squirt again rather than spraying. Is this an issue with the pump? or is there another problem?
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My 1999 F-250 wont start unless I use a squirt of fluid but once started it will run fine could this be my cam sensor or do I have an injector problem.
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To me it sounds like a windshield washer sprayer trying to squirt w/o any fluid or a print head moving and hitting the end and try for a brief second to keep moving. I notice it when I first turn on the car and it is about every 8 ish seconds. Tried to capture it but it is too faint to pick up on cam. 2011 Gti, 39k
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Ok the icp .hpop.ipop.crank ps and ficm is all good but still no start. I've sprayed alittle starting fluid and still don't start idk what else to do this truck is driving me up the wall it's been down for 2 weeks.
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I bought the truck now it won't start has to fuel at the fuel rail cranks but won't start when I spray starting fluid it starts but won't stay running....
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2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
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My 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
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I'm having a slow start issue with my 2008 Explorer Sport trac. Recently it's received a brand new fuel pump, a new fuel pump driver, new spark plugs and ignition coils! And it still hasn't fixed the problem, what's happening is when I start the truck after its hot, there's somewhat of a delay. As if it's starving for fuel, however, in the mornings on its first start or after a shift at work it starts just fine on the first start which prompted me to now think I'm having vapor lock! Gas cap is brand new too. I had the fuel injectors tested and they all seem fine, I'm at a complete loss.
It's killing me and as one can imagine I have spent a lot in parts and at this point in my life I have had to pay for labor instead of my usual DIY because I recently had major back surgery due to being hit by a big rig in December of last and pushed into the rear of an F350 while I was at a complete stop and the rig was doing about 40 mph. Been suffering ever since with constant doc visits, surgeries and so one to correct the issues. I'm tired of shelling out money with no solution, I had a solution I thought but apparently I was wrong. I'm going to change all relays that I think may affect the area....
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My command start for 2008 explorer was installed by ford dealer couple of years ago. Now when I press remote start, horn beeps 1 time, doors lock, lights come on then it should start but instead horn beeps once again and vehicle does not start , radio and heater in vehicle run as if vehicle was started.
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Did the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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I recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
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I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
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Have a 7.3 powerstroke won't start.. I have went through tons of parts check everything I can think of. I have put icp, our, fuel pump, fuel pump, injector, glow plugs and relay, fuel and air filter. new starter, new valve cover harness. HPOP is good and compression is good?
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I had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
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I have a 2000 F450 with a 7.3. I am having problems starting it. Batteries are good, engine turns over strong. It has started a few times after a extremely long crank (so long I am sure I am burning out the starter). I have replaced the CPS since it was cheap enough but that didn't make a difference. I have unplugged the ICP and it is very oily inside the connection. Does this mean the ICP should definitely be replaced? The truck will not start with the ICP unplugged. Should it be able to start with the ICP unplugged? Other items I plan on looking at at the IPR and possible the IDM box. Am I on the right track?
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I have 2000 ford f350 7.3 diesel. (Approx 95,000 mi). Tried to tow heavy wood chipper out of soft backyard, truck on angle because of grade. Put in low and second for better traction. After somewhat high engine rpm tires started to move me ahead until spinning occurred upon which I would immediately stop and try again (slowly). Next thing I know trans fluid on ground and truck steaming. Let cool down, refilled trans oil to proper level, unhooked heavy load. Fluid NO longer leaking, drive home fine (towing nothing). What are my next steps? Very concerned I've done grave damage!?
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Okay a little update on my truck not starting, and for those who have not read my earlier post. My water in fuel light has been on in my truck for probably a month of use. I drained the water sep under the truck nonstop and added several bottles of water remover and the light would not go out so I assumed the sensor was just bad. (im new to owning a powerstroke btw) I broke down coming home from work, got it towed home, and still cant get it started. It will crank fine just wont fire up. I tried unplugging the ICP, i replaced the CPS, and ordered a new water sep/ fuel filter for under the truck. And the fuel filter on top was just replaced a month before breaking down. Every single time i drain the separator tons of clear water diluted fuel comes out before it turns greenish.
Not sure if this could be a cause of getting water in my fuel but one time i filled the truck up completely and it was like the water overfilled and probably a quart or two of fuel spewed out onto the ground. Not sure where it came from. Also I have just over a quarter tank so i was thinking maybe the float broke and I just needed to add fuel but today before i went to add fuel i drained the sep and tons of water came out... Im so worried about hydrolocking my engine or ruining my injectors. But I dont know if my issue even is water related if the sensor just went bad...
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2001 F250 7.3l 294k miles
Ok so truck has always had difficulty starting cold since I got it about 12k miles ago. Replaced glow plugs, that made things slightly better but still no start unless temp gauge was in that first line above the C. Changed to Rotella, immediately after oil change starts better and at slightly colder temps.
Since getting the truck when you turn the ignition on you can hear a 'whistling' type noise which I believe is the fuel system pressurising. That used to last as long as the chimes did when you first turn the ignition on. More recently it lasts a lot longer.
Towed recently and had intermittent check engine light - believe this could be HPOP related, haven't checked codes yet as we're on vacation. No oil in the valley. But I do have a little oil carry over in the turbo intercooler pipes.
Truck slightly sluggish at setting off initially and then picks up reasonably well when not towing but my Dyno says I'm putting a bit more pedal to get the same performance from say two months ago
Pretty sure injectors haven't been changed since truck was new but can't be absolutely certain as there is no history. I was surmising this is probably both a HPOP and injector age issue but only from what I've found searching...
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