99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
View 7 RepliesWe've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
Truck has a rough idle and finally just stalls out. I replace the under valve cover wiring harness and put in new glow plugs. With valve covers still off I started the truck in the issue still persist. I went ahead and unplugged each injector and each time the motor had a hick up .
What am I pulling apart and replacing next?
I have a 1999 B4000 4.0L with 160K miles on it. Bought the truck new. Up until about a year ago it ran perfect but has developed an idle, stalling and occassional jerky ride problem. It occurs at any temperature, engine hot or cold, A/C clutch on or off and in Park, Drive or Neutral. When you start the engine it will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas. The idle speed will drop to 200-300 rpm and the engine dies. Sometimes you can barely tap the gas pedal and the rpm will shoot up to normal idle speed (about 900 rpm) and stay there a few seconds then begin to drop again. If the engine is cold it will often die a couple times after starting even with the foot on the gas and then about the 2nd or 3rd time run with your foot on the gas.
At stop signs and red lights you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. If you are approaching a stop sign and take your foot off the gas to coast to a stop and brake, the engine rpm will drop and the engine will die. It always starts fine though. Once you are driving it generally runs just fine at low or high speed. You can generally set the cruise control on the expressway and cruise right on. However, sometimes all of a sudden the truck will start bucking and jumping as if it has a terrible misfire. It usually lasts a few seconds and quits. Often if you step on the gas it quits. Even less occasionally the engine will begin to slow as if it is starved for fuel and slow down. You can press the pedal to the floor and it sputters a bit then picks up and runs fine.
I have read about all the threads in this forum and others and tried some of the suggested fixes but it still has the problem. I have tuned it up with new plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve. Based on some of the forums advice I have replaced the IAC valve, the EGR valve and EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor, and cleaned and inspected the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I have checked all my vacuum lines and no leaks there and checked the engine timing which is fine. Fuel rail pressure and engine compression are also fine. Spark plugs show no clues, exhaust is clean and the engine uses virtually no oil. There has been no tear down on the engine like removing the heads, cam, timing gears or any of that and the engine is completely stock.
It shows no codes related to the problem. Two or three months after the problem started I showed a code that indicated an injector problem, traced the problem to a bad injector, replaced the faulty injector and it was fine. That took care of that code but didn't solve the idle problem. In my younger days I was into drag racing and I rebuilt engines, swapped transmissions, etc. and still do my own tune-ups today so I am fairly familiar with auto repair and have most of the tools for testing newer cars but this one stumps me. As a last resort I'm about to take it to the dealer.
What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
View 1 RepliesMy 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
Let me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
View 4 RepliesMy 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
When I turn-on AC or defroster, motor idles rough then stalls. My mechanic says it is not related to CHECK ENGINE light or exhaust O2 sensor? I have an 02 Ford Explorer.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 FX4 5.4 with about 113,000 miles on it. Lately, when towing the camper (around 7000 lbs), truck runs great. However, when I come to a stop, it idles horribly and even stalls sometimes. When I rev it up, runs fine again. It only does this after towing when engine is under load for extended periods of time.
The only code it has ever thrown was for bank 2 camshaft over retarded. My thought was that it could be VCT solenoid for bank 2...
My 2005 2.3l Ranger ran great. I moved a trailer about 150 feet and stalled the truck backing it up. Stick shift. Unhooked the trailer and pulled back into the parking area....all the sudden the truck has extremely rough idle and stalls. It runs good on the highway. AutoZone ran a OEM number to cross: P0171.
I cleaned the IAC with intake cleaner. No Luck
I unhooked battery for 15 min. No Luck
I sprayed intake with 1/2 can of intake cleaner. No Luck
I did not have a tamper torx to remove the MAF. What next.
I bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown.
When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter.
When I start the truck it hard to start and the idle is rough but when it warms up it seems to get better but still miss fires now and then so i was thinking could it be a bad O2 there is now "CEL" because the battery was dead (installed a new one) and the truck has not been on the road yet (want to get everything fixed first) and update on the door alarm will be working on that tomorrow almost forgot 2002 explorer 4.0L "E" for the vin 4 wheel drive 124k on it.
View 5 RepliesRough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
I have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.
View 8 RepliesMy explorer has been running a little rough, particularly at idle. When I take off from a rough idle, it'll run rough until I hit 25-30mph. I ran by O'Reilly's hoping to pick up a pack of spark plugs and be done with it, ended up leaving with a new MAF sensor. It ran better for about 10 miles (I'm a delivery driver, so I did a lot of stop and go immediately), before it ran even worse than it did before, but at least my CEL finally came on. Took it back to O'Reilly's and they read a MAF sensor code and a catalytic system code (didn't ask for the codes, and now realize that was a mistake).
So today I took it to a muffler shop to have the catalytic system diagnosed. They looked at it for 10 minutes and told me they didn't think it was the converter. They said it seemed more like the EGR valve or solenoid, or the IAC. He scanned the codes again and got multiple "running lean" codes (0171, 0174, etc). The guy said I didn't have a vacuum leak, so I think I can rule that out. Unfortunately, the truck idled fine the whole time so he didn't feel comfortable giving me a definitive answer. He told to to leave the EGR valve hose unplugged for a few days and see if anything changes. I'm thinking about running a bottle of fuel cleaner through it or taking off the IAC and/or EGR and cleaning them myself.
Bought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
View 6 RepliesI have a weird intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my explorer it will idle down and die immediately, I restart and it will idle about 400-600 really rough, sounds like it is missing. When I drive it it is jerky and the acceleration is sluggish but after I get it up to about 20 mph it clears out and then drives and idles fine until I shut it down. Plus these things only happen about every third time (on average) that I drive it. Lastly it's not giving me any codes. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesMy wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.