Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Heater Blower Motor Quit Working
Dec 10, 2013
99 Explorer Blower motor quit working. Disconnected and hot wired to a battery and blower motor worked. So I know it is in the switch and/or wiring. I need this truck everyday so going into the shop is out. Live in Northern Mn and the temp was -15 degrees. So as a temp fix what does everybody think of running a wire from the battery to a switch inside and then to the blower motor and then to a ground. Would have a inline fuse. If this will work what gauge wire and what amp fuse would you use. Its getting cold without heat.
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I had to replace the vacuum control for the heater in the dash panel. The fan worked good on all 4 speed settings but only in the defrost position due to the damaged control valve. The control valve works all position for the heater positions now. There is power at both sides of the heater fuse under the dash but no blower function. Is there a fuseable link elsewhere in the system to check. Is the fan motor only accessible to test by accessing the heater/AC under the dash on the passenger side. 1973 Crew Cab....
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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My heater/AC blower quit working. Does not work with either heat or AC. I suspect a blown fuse but cannot find one for the blower.
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I got a new resistor since my last one was in a puddle of water and installed that today and still have no heater blower motor. I checked all the fuses and have power. I sent power to the blower itself and it spins good. So somewhere between the fuse and the blower it isn't working. I need to take the controls out and test for power there. Didn't have time to do that today. What wires to check or where to start trouble shooting?
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The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
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2001 f350 blower motor for (A/C - Heater) works sometimes and sometimes does not.
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Blower Motor quit, dual zone climate control system. AC will work with Recirculation mode off. Just won't blow.
Turned heater on still won't blow. Pulled and checked the following fuses: 37; 45, 37 & 15 which pulling these 3 reset the system; and pulled 24 in the battery junction box. Still not working.
Next plan is to pull Relay #1 from the battery junction box and apply 12v to see if it clicks - no click & then I'll replace it.
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2012 F350 Lariat 6.7
The blower motor has quit. All fuses relays etc appeared to be ok. So I tested the connector going into the motor, I saw 13.9 volts so assumed it was a bad motor.
After removing the motor I bench tested it by connecting 12volts to one side of the connector and negative to the other. It spun up.
I re-tested the motor supply connector in the vehicle, it has 13.9 volts on the yellow wire, and 4.44 on the other. I adjusted the fan speed on the climate control, although the fan images on the display increased, there was no change to the voltages on either line.
I used the 13.9v connection on the positive terminal and a ground on the negative, the motor spins.
Is there a method for accessing codes that will display what is causing this failure?
So why do I have 4.44 volts at what should be a ground? Is this a bad resistor or is the climate control euchred.
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Very strange things happening with 2009 F350 Gas, first the heater blower only is now working on high, progressively has gotten worse, low settings started not working a while ago, now only high works. Just recently the strangest thing, start the truck OK, turn on radio OK, turn lights on then the radio goes off. Will bring it to dealer in a day or two if I can't figure this one out.
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Trying to replace sliding glass motor, quit working and had to cut the cable to shut it due to the rain. It appears I need to remove the seat belts & covers next.
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My 2 remotes quit working at the same time. Tried to reprogram following method on the forum, but I dont get the lock/unlock on the 8th key cycle.
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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How hard is it to change the A/C/Heater blower motor. I know about the switch problems but this is the blower motor. I'll probably clean it out and spray something in it before I replace it but I just wondered how hard it is to get to. On another note, this 4 wheel drive Santa Fe rocks in the snow! I can't believe what good traction it has!
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I have a 2005 BMW X5 and the heater motor makes a shrill noise only when I am turning right.
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I have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
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Went to have an oil change....service rep came in with my cabin air filter and said it needed to be replaced, I told him "later" as they charge too much for a simple filter.
Two days later I had the need to run my blower on high and it vibrated rather loudly.. I tried different positions on the vent switch but nothing worked.. then it came to mind the Jiffy lube incident. I went in and pulled the cabin air filter out and saw nothing wrong there. Upon further inspection I found a piece of an acorn in the blower wheel.
Moral of this story...if you changes cabin air filter, be sure to check for any debris that may fall off the old filter into the blower wheel when it is removed.
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Started up the 2002 EXP today and thought the fuel pump was failing. Get a consistent thump every 1 second. Later today i looked and noted the noise is coming from drivers rear fender well (i think). I took off the small plastic cover of the rear blower motor and thought it was in that area. Disconnected the motor and still thumps. Disconnected the blower motor resistor block and still thumps. Looked at the overhead consol and the rear blower was on HI. Turned the blower down and as you reduce speed the noise volume is lower. Turned the switch off and i thought the noise was gone. Pulled the cup holder above the fender well looking for a relay or something in that area. I cant isolate the noise but seems to be real close to that area. Later i heard the noise, very faint, and the blower switch was off. Turned it to 1-2-3 and it gets much louder. Turned it off and very slight noise. What am i looking for? My hearing is not accurate enough to find it.
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