I have a 99 explorer 4.0L. I am getting trouble codes p171 and p174. I have cleaned the MAF and changed the EGR valve already. I have done some research on this and am coming up with it's either the O2 sensors or there is an air intake leak (gasket). This started up a couple months ago and I have been working on it when I can. I don't really want to spend another $50 on an O2 sensor if it's the gasket.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1999 explorer with a 4.0 ohv auto with about 174,000 miles on it. the PO changed the coil pack, wires, plugs, MAF and cat on it trying to get rid of codes. I know the from searching that they are both precat 02 codes. So I am planning on looking for vacuum leaks with propane around intake and egr and checking on the fuel pressure and wiring and connections. Is there any thing else I should check out? for both sensors to throw this code? The truck runs ok just has a shutter when going up hills and stuff.
View 4 RepliesNeed to clear codes after doing a lot of work on this used Eddie Bauer With the 4.6 engine. Is there a procedure to clear the codes to get a new reading?
View 1 Replies4.6L DOHC - My driver's side catalytic converter is making quite a bit of noise during acceleration when the engine is warm. I have no trouble codes, no cel and the truck seems to be running fine in general.
I am exploring repair possibilities. I've talked to two shops - one general repair, one exhaust specialist. Neither gave me any options other than to replace the whole system. That isn't an option. I'm a semi-competent home mechanic and if that's what has to be done I'll just buy the walker system from RA and do it myself.
I have an 03 Explorer 4.6L that is running bad. The code was P2196, I changed B1S1 O2 sensor and cleared code. A few minutes later the SES light was on, I checked codes and now I have P2196 (again) and P0405. Why I was only getting the O2 code and now I have it again after replacing it and a new code (0405 EGR)..
View 14 RepliesHow do I get abs light to go off? I removed and cleaned all sensors, checked all wiring, fuses, and diode. I also used a a scanner, and it tells me there are no error codes. What do i do now?
View 12 RepliesMy 04 Explorer 4.0 has been giving me the bank 1&2 lean codes. It is the fully electronic throttle body not mechanical. It seems from reading that in 04 is when they switched to the electronic version. Here are some things I have done to resolve this. I created a diy smoke machine from a paint can and air. I found a leak by the egr.
I replaced the egr and gaskets, along with the metal part that goes into the throttle body. I replaced the pcv and hose(although it looked fine). I replaced my intake gaskets. I replaced the MAF sensor.
Before all of this my lt fuel trims were +25 for both bank 1 & 2. After doing all of this my trims did come down a little to Bank 1 +16 and bank 2 +23. I dont know what to check next!
Working on my son's 2001 sport trac. 200K miles but it has always been a great running truck.
I have two CEL codes:
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
I have found several issues so far, but have yet to get rid of these pesky codes.
So far I have changed:
- Intake Gasket - I had coolant loss which replacing this gasket fixed.
- PCV Valve and Hose - valve was damaged and the hose leaked.
- EGR Valve - Valve was leaking
- Fuel Filter
- Mass Airflow Sensor
The engine does appear to be running much smoother now, but the lean codes remain.
The Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow
I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.
None of the windows will function. Took off the door panel wiggled the wiring harness and the windows would function. Fortunately I got them all up.
Now with nicer weather it would be nice to have them working. I assume I have a broken wire leading to the master switch in the driver door. What would be the color code that is likely broken.
Any way, they come to me and tell me the tranny is slipping. I immediately notice the SES light on. I decided to check codes to see if I have any errors coming from the tranny. So far I have these codes: P0455 P1151 P0304 P0174
I dont know this vehicle at all and wanted to see if some of these items are common and/or possibly related to each other.
Heres what I have found:
P0455 - EVAP leak somewhere. Seems a lot of people have discovered a crack in the filler neck.
P1151 - Passenger O2 LEAN
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0174 - Passenger lean condition "A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time."
Looks like I need to clean the MAF, check vacuum leaks, possibly replace passenger O2. Ive also read some of these codes come from a common issue with the intake gasket. May need to replace it? How should I clean the MAF? Can I use some normal solvents?
I need to mention a tick/tap on pass side under cold idle (consistent, but not constant). Still need to test to see if it happens at other times. Right now has Seafoam in the oil and about to run it and then change the oil. Also, have ran it though the brake booster. Currently in the sit and wait process, about to go out and make the neighborhood smoke like Hiroshima.
2003 Sport Trac. My car was not starting, told my fuel pump, replaced twice and nothing. Found out about inertia switch and changed it, now car runs.
Before this switch blew out my car was running perfectly, no check engine, nothing. Now i have changed my fuel pump twice and put a brand new fuel filter in and soon after i get lean codes P0171 and P0174. My fuel pressure is 60psi at idle and drops to 0 after about 30 seconds when the car is shut off.
A lot of my intake is new since i did have a vacuum leak before, so i do not suspect that is it, especially since this happened after the new fuel pump. I am completely stuck as to what i should do. And i get hesitation when trying to accelerate sometimes
I have a 2004 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC V6.
I was having some rough idle and a P0401 code for Insufficient EGR Flow. In the process of investigating the EGR valve, I had to remove the throttle position sensor to remove the EGR. After re-installing everything, I had a worse rough idle and I again removed the EGR valve; however this time instead of removing the throttle position sensor, I removed the entire throttle body assembly.
After re-installing everything again, I now have very rough idle and no pedal response. I have the following two codes:
P2104- Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Closed
P2112- Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
I did not unplug any harness, and all connections are secure. I did not remove the battery cables while working on it, but I did remove the negative cable for about 45 minutes after getting the P2104/P2112 codes hoping a reset my fix things.
I've got an '03 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC that I got for a deal on craigslist as it needed timing chain tensioners. I got that all done and it runs and drives relatively well, but it idles a little bit rough - especially when it's sitting in gear at a stop light. My go-to first attempt for idling issues is to squirt off the MAF sensor, throttle body, and squirt some starter fluid around the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks (though it's possible I may have missed a line or two). Neither seemed to work much. I cleared the codes, dumped some Sea Foam and fresh fuel in it and drove it around a little bit and it threw the CEL light, got about 10 mpg, and generally just didn't seem to have as much power as it should (though I have no experience with the 4.0 in a explorer, soI'm not counting that as a hard fact).
I pulled the codes and I've got a:
P2196 (O2 sensor stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1)
(and)
P0174 (system too lean - bank 2)
That seems kinda weird to me. Bank 1 is rich and bank 2 is lean? That would make it idle and run weird, for sure, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out what would cause that. I think my next step would be to check/replace the plugs, but that's more of a shot in the dark than a proper diagnosis.
My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
View 9 RepliesI have been getting a P0171 and a P0174 code lean bank 1 and 2 sensor 2. I have replaced all 4 censers the 171 is gone but I keep getting the P0174 and it only comes on when I am on the highway after driving around 10 miles or so i got a freeze frame of the data when it happen.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Explorer 4.6, about 2 weeks ago the CEL kicked on but I didn't notice any problem. Last week I stopped at a red light and felt it shacking a little, I took off everything seem ok. At the next light I felt it again and that time it started sputtering, I drove it for a few more days and it would sputter now and then as I was driving and every time when I would stop when it was in drive. I had the codes pulled and it came back with P2196 & P0405 (o2 & EGR).
I was going to buy a new 02 sensor & EGR but I was told that a bad EGR could be causing the o2 code also. I put the new EGR on yesterday and had the codes cleared. I test drove it for about 10 miles with no problems. Today while driving I felt it start doing it again and about 5 mins. later the CEL was back on. I got the codes and again its P2196 & P0405, Should I have changed the 02 sensor instead or what I should do next?
I get this code, p171, every so often on my corolla. I have cleaned the MAF and finally changed it with one bought at AutoZone. I still get the code. What should I do next?
View 4 RepliesI have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 explorer, eddie bauer (120k), which i really love driving. Recently, i have lights coming on in my dash: ABS, traction control and the 4wd light intermittently flashing. I went to Advance auto parts and they were able to read the codes, a B1155 - speed wheel sensor LF input circuit failure and a B1145 - speed wheel sensor RF input circuit failure. I have replaced both wheel bearing hubs (with the speed sensors) about 6 monthe ago. the connectors leading to the speed sensors are both showing 12v at the plug. Is the problem both my sensors have gone bad? Is there any way to test these sensors. I need to get this fixed quickly since i am due for an emission test very soon and it will not pass if any dash lights are on.
View 6 Replies2003 Ford Explorer, with P0171 and P0174 codes, common problem, as I have read. I pulled the cover over the engine off, and I immediately found the likely problem. There is a hose/connection that runs from the valve cover on the right side, about 6 inches behind the oil fill tube across and looks like it comes into the Carb. Where it turns to come into the carb is a rubber elbow. This elbow has a hole in it. Temporarily I have used electrical tape, but when I run the vehicle, I see the elbow begin to collapse. I believe the elbow is getting weak with age, plus the hole/tear doesn't work. Anyway, what i the part number, or what this is called. Hoping Advance Auto, or Napa will have it, just don't know what it is called, and can't figure out the part number. Otherwise I will pull it off tomorrow and take to advance and see if they can match it.
View 5 Replies