I have a 1999 Explorer with a 4.0 engine and when it gets cold it has trouble starting. It will click for a while and then start, but when it is warm I have no problem starting it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Explorer with 147K that makes a chirping sound when I start it and the engine is cold. So far I have replaced the serpentine tension-er and the water pump. After about 10 minutes of running the noise stops. With the belt off the idler pulley spins freely. It does have the original power steering pump.
View 3 Replies'99 Explorer 5.0 doesn't want to start in the cold weather, below 30. After it finally starts it runs great and will start all day. It cranks fast but it doesn't get driven every day.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
I have a 1996 4.0L Sport - 2 weeks ago, stranded wifey at food store, had it towed home, and replaced the starter solenoid - it started and ran for about 4 days, and then stalled once but started back up (it was cold out)
Another day, I went out to start it, and the same thing... loud click when you turn the key to start position, seems to be coming from solenoid again...
so, I thought, ok, the parts a week old, but sometimes they do fail...
So, I bought the best one around: standard "blue" which had brass on the back to best couple to ground, etc...
Put it in, and reconnected everything - and the SAME THING... clicks every time I turn the key. (single click for each time I try to start it....
questions is - how can I check these to see if I had 2 bad ones in a row, or would there be something else wrong?
I have a '97 Explorer XLT with a 5.0L V8. Recently, I've developed a problem, in which it doesn't always start. Sometimes, when I turn the key, there is a very loud click (as if the solenoid is engaging), but there is no start. The battery is NEW, and confirmed good, and the terminal connections are tight. I have also replaced the solenoid, but the issue remains.
If I turn on the headlights, before trying to start it, the lights DO NOT dim when the key is turned...indicating NO draw, on the electrical system. I can try it several days a week, unsuccessfully. And then, one day, I can turn the key and it will start as if there was never a problem to begin with.
I have lost confidence in my favorite vehicle, as I am afraid to drive it if/when it does start, for fear of being stranded. I am thinking it may just have a bad armature, or windings in the starter, but if that doesn't correct it, I can't return the starter (as it is an electrical component).
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT. It just died the other night. I have dim dome light, nothing else. I had the battery and alternator tested, both are ok. I get an occasional click when trying to start it. I also get an occasional beeping, the key in the ignition sound. I've checked the fuses, and can't find a broken one.
View 3 RepliesHave a 91 Exp 4.0 v6, has a no start problem only in the cold weather. Last year, replaced coil pack, fuel pump, crank censor, this winter...same problem. Just will not start when it is cold. No codes, no ck engine. Checked it today...it has no spark. What could cause this? Fuel filter has also been changed. told him to ck crank position censor connector.
View 7 Replies2003 F350 7.3L 164k miles. Got towed in with hard to start cold complaint.
Hooked it up to the Snap On Verus Pro scan tool and we get up to 3000 psi on the ICP cranking, IPR value seems within spec, we have rpms over 100 on tool, pulse width within spec, computer voltage above 10v while cranking, verified output of glow plug module (California) and glow plugs get voltage for approx 50 seconds @ 80 degrees farenheit, glow plugs all read 0 ohms resistance.
injectors do NOT sound the same during buzz test.
Vehicle takes EXCESSIVE cranking cold to eventually get it started. LOTS of cranking. Just had to replace starter and a battery because driver burned em out. It feels like the vehicle shakes when it gets running. Black smoke when revving cold. Sometimes white smoke while cranking.
Once the engine has been warmed up, it starts perfectly every time.
I have spent two days in the engine bay looking for chaffed wires and doing diag and my current diagnosis is bad injectors. I feel there COULD also be high pressure oil leak, or a mechanical issue such as low compression. No compression guage yet for this truck. We have the ICP and IPR fittings to do a shop air test. Recently did a 6.0L and went thru everything and eventually diagnosed it as bad HPOP. LOW ICP pressure.
I noticed two of the cylinders were at maybe 8% Perdel on the data. Seems too high. Also, it "passed" the KOER self test and "passed" the injector buzz test with no codes after, but the audible sound of injectors didn't "seem" right to me, but I am new to these engines.
When it's cold outside my car will start up, but not stay running. The only way I can get it to stay running is to keep my food on the gas for up to five minutes. Once the vehicle is warmed up, it stays running. If I start it every hour or so, it will run fine. It's just when it's been sitting out in around zero degree weather overnight for example.
View 4 RepliesSo I bought a Lifted 1999 F250 a couple weeks ago and last night the thing wouldn't start. The battery connections are not perfect but there's power going to the truck because it will give me the wait to start light and all. When I try to start it there's one really loud click and certain lights like the clock momentarily turn off when it clicks. Tried hitting the starter didn't work. Tried putting a jump pack to the starter and it didn't spark like expected.
View 8 RepliesOn my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
View 2 RepliesMy power steering pump in my 05 Explorer 4.6L V8 is starting to howl it's displeasure on a cold start at near zero temperature. It doesn't do it when warm.
I thought I would change the fluid but the owners manual says to use Mercon ATF, but Ford now sells Mercon V as power steering fluid. It also warns not to mix the two kinds.
So, which one should I use? And, which way to change it, siphon pump the reservoir and replace with new a few times, or let the pump pump it out and replace as it goes?
I have a 2005 Sport trac, just recently, I started my truck and my check engine light was on and my trip counter and odometer went blank, not off, just dashes going across the panel. I recall noticing that my rpms were a little high. I turned off the truck and restarted and after a few minutes it came back to normal. Check engine light went off and my miles were displayed again.
A few days later, it happened again, except this time the rpms were normal, just the dashes and check engine light. I happened to have an obd II with me and I immediately scanned it for any codes. NONE. Few minutes later, back to normal. Scanned again, NOTHING. Its been happening more frequently now, every time i turn on the truck when its been sitting for a while. Like I said, it takes about 3 minutes or so and it goes away. Nothing unusual happens during this time. Motor sounds fine and runs smooth.
A friend who is a mechanic told me that it could be a ground cable for the COIL? that could be loose or damaged? He said its more than likely a ground because it happens when its cold and takes time to warm up and goes away. That if it was a hot it would happen all the time. I have searched online for something similar and have found similar problems but no exact match. I just changed the motor about a week ago. I had problems with the timing chain and broken oil pump.
Due to the amount of damage, cost and time to repair and amount of miles on the truck (180K) I decided id be better off putting in a new(used) motor with 67K miles in half the time for labor. I dont think this makes a difference though, because the first incident happened about a week before the truck broke down and the second about two days before. So Im guessing that the change of motor has nothing to do with it.
I have a 1999 BMW 3 series, 112K, 5 speed, immaculate condition, only full synthetic oil used. After a cold start - even today at 55 degrees - I get a strange noise from the engine compartment which gets louder according to RPMs. The BMW dealer replaced the oil separator for the motor ventilator and some of the respective hoses and valves associated with it. They also checked the oil pressure when the motor was hot and cold and advised it's fine; however, the noise is still there. (A different BMW dealer service advisor said, just after hearing it, it was an oil pump issue.)
On an unrelated note, when the motor is warm and I'm in stop and go traffic, the idle speed will sometimes go up and down (500 RPM - 900 RPM), and when it reaches 500 or so RPM, it dies. The car always starts back-up right away. Spark plugs are new and I used OEM BMW spark plugs. My thoughts are the idle air control valve.
Otherwise, the car is great; yesterday I took it on a 250 mile RT highway trip without any problems.
My 2000 F-250 V10 won't start has a new alternator and new starter all it does is Click when I turn the key?
View 14 Replies I just bought an 03 f250 5.4l . I'm just using it to plow my driveway this winter. The starter just clicks , after multiple attempts it will start. The previous owner said it's been like that for a long time but always starts.
I'd like to fix this now while it's warm out , before I buy a starter I'm wondering if I should look into other causes and how to trouble shoot the issue.
Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
View 7 Replies2002 explorer 4.0l. No crank just click new starter in and cables hooked to battery...
View 1 RepliesWhat causes a click in the engine when you start your car or when you accelerate at times. I have a 2007 ES350. I have 157,000 miles and it runs great.
View 3 Replies