Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Dry Sounding Start Ups?
Apr 25, 2012
A recently acquired '99 Explorer 4.0 SOHC with 140K on it, sounds like it takes too long for the oil to pressurize upon start up even if the vehicle is hot. Nothing knocks or anything, there is just a subtle but unpleasant sound for the first second or so of operation (unlike any other car I have driven.)
Is this normal? 5W-30 and a Motorcraft filter is being used. It recently had the timing chains replaced, but this sounds has been constant before and after timing chains were replaced.
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I've done some searching and see lots of "wind noise" threads but thought I would add this one. I was actually able to record the noise the other day. Here is the video.
Explorer Wind Noise IMG 1536 - YouTube
It's a 2010 Ford Explorer EB, V6, all-wheel drive.
It only happens when driving directly into an oncoming head-wind. If it's an especially windy day, it's REALLY bad. It comes from the right-bottom inside area of the passenger side. Kind of where the windshield meets the dash. I've tried shoving towels down there, no luck.
I've had two dealers try and diagnose and of course neither could hear it. I've tried opening and closing vents, window up or down, sunroof closed or open, AC on, off, etc... and it's got me stumped. My only thought is the windshield. It's happened since new and we've got 30k on this. It's my wife's and she's way more patient then me...... but after 30k it's starting to really get to her too!
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I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
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I have a 1999 SD V10 with about 133K on it. Runs great to the day. Recently I noticed alot of clicking and rough sounding noise coming from the a/c compressor the other day. Yep I got up underneath it and it look like it's about shot.
My question is : How hard is it to replace the clutch yourself with a new one. Are there any step by step direction here on the ford forums on how to do it. Looks like can just replace the a/c clutch and be good to go. A/C still blows cold air.
I took it to my mechanic the other day and they want $ for a replacement compressor and labor. I'd like to try and avoid that amount for now and just replace the clutch.
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Hard start like it's not getting enough fuel then kicks in and runs great with no hesitations or issues and with plenty of power. Replaced fuel filter, nothing changed.
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Yes, another thread on an explorer that occasionally has trouble starting. One cold morning the fuel pump would not operate. When turning the key to run the volts to the pump (with plug disconnected) was 8.6 for a second, then dropped to the 6v range. I took the inertia switch from the firewall and back probed the wire going to the fuel pump, getting 12 volts. I went back to the fuel tank and measured the voltage with the key in run position, and read battery voltage. The car started, and has not failed in 3 days. I know it will quit again. I was thinking of replacing the inertia switch and fuel pump relay.
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This morning was cold. Went to start and it slowly cranked but no start. Tried jumping but again slow crank and no start. Thinking battery charged and tested and it's fully charged. Reinstalled and nothing.
No click.
No crank.
Nothing.
So thinking now. Start with relay.
Then starter solenoid.
Then starter?
Could it be a column thing? Not fully in park or should I try in neutral? Have another thread needing a fuse diagram for inside and the box under the hood.
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What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
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I picked up a 2000 4x4 F250 on Saturday.
The truck rides pretty good but on bumpy roads there is a loose sounding rattle in the front end. Also when applying the brakes there is a thud in the front drives side. You can feel it in the drivers floor board a little. Once you start braking about halfway to complete stop is when the thud is, if that makes sense. I suspect bushings but how do I know which ones.
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I have a 1999 Explorer with a 4.0 engine and when it gets cold it has trouble starting. It will click for a while and then start, but when it is warm I have no problem starting it.
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'99 Explorer 5.0 doesn't want to start in the cold weather, below 30. After it finally starts it runs great and will start all day. It cranks fast but it doesn't get driven every day.
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I own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
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My truck starts sounding off like a foghorn at slow speeds and idle, goes away as soon as you tap the gas pedal. The truck is all stock. 2004 5.4L ....
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Twice in the past week our truck wouldn't start. The first time I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started. This morning I went to the Dr and when I got out it wouldn't start again and my can of starting fluid didn't squirt. I called my wife and had her bring another can but in the mean time I changed the fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood and it started reluctantly, it sputtered at first until I put some pedal to it. I don't think that is the problem. I got it home and checked the codes, there were none. I'd say fuel filter but it runs good at high speed. If there were no spark there would be a code so I assume it's fuel related. It's run perfectly since I acquired it last year.
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My pickup has 316,000 miles on it. It's a 2000 ford f250 7.3 powerstroke. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. Yesterday when pulling a 28' travel trailer up an incline I noticed I didn't have much power and it steadily got worse. Now I'm at a crawl when I hear a noise sounding like it lost air compression for a few minutes then the noise stopped. I stopped and looked to make sure everything under the hood was still attached and everything seemed fine.
I got back in and continued very slowly a few more miles home. Gauge were all good, never got hot. I put a scanner on it and it threw two codes. P1247 and P1248. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. So I am assuming this break down now has something to do with it. I really am starting to not like fords!
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So I installed my 4" Procomp lift, rancho shocks, extended length end links, brand new rear shackles, new steering gear and pressure & return hose and the truck still drives like complete crap...
When I was getting the front back together I couldn't align the front axle properly and the springs are leaning slightly...
Bump steer is terrible, wobbly sounding clunk from front end and she's all over the road.
Do I need an adjustable track bar? I assume the track bar is what's causing my axle to be off center... can I just unbolt it, center axle and re-bolt it?
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2010 Ford Focus. My fiancee noticed that when accelerating, the car has an electrical sounding whine coming from the engine. It only occurs when we're accelerating and pitches a bit higher when we're turning
We have until Thursday to return the return the car if their is an issue.
I've attached a video of her revving the engine.
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So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
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I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 ... .. A few months back the horn started sounding on its' own in the night, so I pulled the fuse... .. Then the Cruise Control stopped working. I have googled references to clockspring failure and these problems... ..
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The vehicle was parked in driveway for a week not previously involved in any collision or rough terrain
When do try to start is only runs for 1 second
The inertia switch was not set
There is 50+- lbs pressure in the fuel line when the switch is first turned on
Hitting the inertia switch will cause the switch to set
The switch will reset
Testing for continuity when the switch is normal there is no "juice" from pole 1 to pole 2 and 3
After activating e.g. hitting the switch there is "juice" for pole 1 to pole 2
Am I wrong in thinking it is the inertia switch....
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1991 Ford Explorer XLT, 4X4, 4.0L push-rod motor, 315,000K
Problem Part 1: Excessive fuel consumption
Codes for O2 sensor, system lean, some black smoke, unburnt fuel smell, some slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop
I replaced the 02 sensor, replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF, replaced the coil pack, replaced the plugs, replaced the plug wires, replaced fuel filter, replaced air cleaner, replaced the PVC valve changed brand of fuel, checked tires and "brake binding" - NOTHING. Truck ran "fine" other than excessive fuel consumption. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator and before I could get to the parts store we have...
Problem Part 2:
Truck begins to lope along like there is one bad cylinder. It sometimes "fixes" then comes back (all this over a period of 3 days).
Day 4 it's dead - no start.
The motor cranks, the fuel pump "pumps" 3-5 secs KOEO fuel line is clear, return line is clear, filter is clear. There is fuel at the Schrader valve (do not know pressures) and the electrical system seems OK (sparks to all 6cyl). I believe the crank position indicator is OK because the CEL is on KOEO but goes out when cranking. I have no codes because I needed to remove the battery to re-charge. Fuel pump fuse is OK.
Only other information that may (or may not) be relevant is that lately it is slow to heat up. It does not come off "cold" (for the last 4 days). Maybe it's the thermostat or temperature sending unit? Maybe it's because its -30C here. It heats up fine if I block the airflow across the radiator (the old carboard solution).
I have not checked the relay. Where this unit is on the 1991? Don't say fuel pump.
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