Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Code P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
Oct 22, 2010
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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My Ex is throwing a P1451 Canister Vent Purge valve issue. Is the canister for the Ex hidden on the frame above the gas tank? I looked around the frame in the back of the truck but am having no luck finding it so I'm guessing ill have to drop the tank to get to it. I've read that wire chafing for this valve could be the problem.
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So... p1451. Vent solenoid. I pulled the part and put 12v to it. Opens/closes just fine. Checked resistance on part, 55ohms like it should. Pulled vent canister, no apparent leaks or blockages. I traced wires back to cab. Cannot locate anybroken wiring. I looked up the pinpoint test on this dct and all thats left to test out is the pcm itself. Before I buy the obd2 scanner with all modes I wondering if I am missing something.
I did find a broken ground wire in my searching. Frame to body. My thoughts on a bad ground are that that would cause more than one monitor to register one fault code.
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A buddy of mine has a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 3.0L, he got the code P1450 the other day and asked me to look at it. Got all the info on what it could be but where ex actually is the EVAP canister and CV solenoid located? And what is the problem?
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My 2009 santa fe with the 2.7 has a check engine light. p2422 evap vent solenoid stuck closed. I replaced the charcoal canister and the light came back on. I replace the solenoid by the throttle body and the light came back on but took longer to set. My wife said that she was having problems filling the tank but when I changed the second solenoid the problem was gone but the light had returned.
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Where the EVAP canister purge solenoid is located on a 1999 Ford Windstar with the 3.8 engine?? I replaced the vent valve that is located on the canister itself but cannot locate the purge solenoid valve.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L the check engine light is on and says about the evap canister solenoid. I am trying to located it but I can't find it. So, where would it be located at so I can take it apart and where is the Canister located as well...
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I'm converting the automatic in my 94 explorer to a M5OD-R1 five speed transmission. I got the manual wire harness from the donor truck and it plugs into the existing connectors, but it's missing a connector for the evap canister. Should I just use the automatic harness and modify it to bypass the clutch safety switch and wire a switch for backup lights? Or use the manual harness and wire the evap canister to the ecm? I'm not much of an electrician, just trying to find the correct way to do this so the truck runs good.
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I have a 2010 Ford Escape. The engine light came on about 10 days ago. I ordered a OBD which arrived the day that the engine light went out (two days ago...) Anyway, the OBD showed a P1490, which, according to google means Secondary Air Relief Solenoid Circuit Malfunction.
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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I have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
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I've been getting a P0442 periodically from my 97 850 wagon (base, no turbo). I've replaced the gas cap, the electrical part of the ignition switch, and all the deteriorated rubber vacuum-hose couplings I can find under the hood, but I'm still getting the code. I want to inspect the hose couplings at the evap canister, but there doesn't appear to be any way of getting to them other than removing the canister from under the car. Is there any other access to these?
Also, I've got VIDA running on my PC, and even though I've given it the VIN, it shows me the wrong evap canister in the parts diagrams. It shows the cylindrical canister, but my 850 has the rectangular canister. Where I can view accurate diagrams showing the evap components in this car?
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1993 F150 302. What does the fuel canister purge solenoid/vac play in the furl/emissions arena?
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An MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).
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Working on 2003 Explorer 4x4. Seemed to be running fine till (apparently quite suddenly) it has no power. I have been looking for a vacuum leak. tested with vacuum tester and was showing signs of EGR Solenoid malfunction. So... off with the intake manifold and replaced the EGR solenoid and PCV. No improvement on power.
What triggers the EGR solenoid to pull the vacuum to the EGR Valve? I am wondering if the what is supposed to trigger the Solenoid is working properly. It was not pulling a vacuum on acceleration, most of the time. Ever now and again it would and when it did it would drop when you let go of the gas, as it should. Getting it to pull a vacuum was the problem. I have a vacuum of about 15 from the intake manifold.
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My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
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How can I fix the P0741 engine code? Vehicle has 100k mileage.
Some of the on and off symptoms: loss of power, doesn't go over 40mph on the bridge, rpm dramatically goes high at low speed, lower mpg.
I did a tune-up: [URL] .... 2Bplugs, engine, coolant, [URL] .... 2Bfluid, steering, ignition coils, short ram intake filter cleaned.
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My old 97 f-150's 4R70W started slipping.....so I just installed a rebuilt 98 f-150 unit that had about 10,000 miles on it and also has a transgo shift kit. Got it finished today....and.....
I have an check engine light code p0750 "shift solenoid A malfunction"........when leaving from a stop in Drive, the truck starts going in 2nd gear and just skips 1st gear all together. If I manually shift it, then 1st works fine and shifts through all the gears fine.
But in Drive.. it skips 1st. What to do? or what could be the problem? Where is this solenoid? Can I swap the one out of my old tranny into this one without pulling the whole tranny apart? (I don't mind dropping the pan though...) Or could i have a bad connection somewhere maybe?
Also....When the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd the rpms jump about 500 rpm before they drop...kind of seems excessive. Could this be caused by the shift solenoid A malfunction?
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I recently acquired a 2003 Dodge Neon and have also aquired a problem with the automatic transmission.The check engine light was on so I read the codes and they are noted below
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
Based upon some very basic research, I checked into replacing the Transmission Control solenoid.It sounded like this is a pretty common problem for this transmission, so hopefully this would fix the problem.
I was able to get the old one pulled off without to much trouble, but prir to installing the new one I was wondering if there would be a way to test the old one to verify that it was actually bad. I would prefer to not install the new $150 part only to find out that this was not the problem. (and then I could not return it once it had been installed) Maybe some low air pressure on the ports and verify that the ports / flow changes if 12 VDC is applied to the right pins?
A little more information in regards to the "failure" mode. The transmission appears to act the same no matter if it is placed in 1,3 or D. (reverse works fine) I would have expected that it would limit out with the motor taching up pretty high at about 20 MPH in 1(low). It goes down the road fine up to about 55 mph and then the engine starts taching up.
I also tried to reset the error codes with my "craftsman" code reader and it would not do it. I seem to recall seeing something about needing to reset codes before the new solenoid would work. Will pulling the battery for an hour clear the code? Do I need to clear the code?
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After about 6 months I finally got the alternator replaced in the Tribute. I totally forgot about the CEL that was on for EGR Circuit. I've found a couple of pages ( OBD-II Trouble Code: P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction ) that explain how to diagnose the issue but I was wondering if any other route for something that may be more common than another thing.
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