Ford - Explorer :: 1999 4x4 - Reverse Seems To Make A Whirring Grinding Sound
Mar 14, 2015
I recently had an issue with my transfer case that caused me to have to replace it with a rebuilt one. I did so and am now having a different issue. I have a switch on my dash that shows Auto, 4 High, and 4 Low. Whenever I shift that switch over to 4 High from Auto the light changes and I hear a click sound. When I shift the switch from 4 High to 4 Low I get nothing. So, I took off the transfer case motor and switched things over by hand. When I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to LOW setting on the transfer case; it seems to run ok as if it is in 4 low, BUT, when I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to HIGH setting I can shift into every gear but seemingly have no reverse. Reverse seems to make a whirring grinding sound.
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2004 Ford Explorer Sports Trac.
Just recently when driving down any road, when I let go of the gas to slow down from any speed, there is a funny grinding noise coming from under the truck, the Speedo drops fast, but the RPM`s stays the same. Then at around 30-40 km/hr, it just stops. When I place it into 4x4, I don`t have the problem. Also, again just recently, when I put the truck into reverse, I get the same grinding noise from under the truck. I have to putt he truck into 4x4, and then I put it in reverse for it to work.
I don`t have the problem going into drive. Both problems don't happen all the time, it will go away for 2-3 days then ill have problems for a few days after. I Took the truck to the shop and they said its the tranny so I replaced with a brand new one thinking that is the problem, but After the Tranny was replaced its still making all the same noises. The grinding noise sounds like "ice in a grinder" or to that effect. I'm not sure whats wrong, and I'm getting frustrated at my truck.
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I get a grinding or whirring sound when I turn my steering wheel left or right. I gets worse if press the accelerator pedal. I believe it has something to do with the power steering but I don't know how to troubleshoot the issue....
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The brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
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My 2003 Jetta GLI was making a terrible grinding/knocking noise when i would turn and occasionally make this "Bong" sound especially when reversing. I took it to my local shop and they say my spring in the front left is "either broken or unattached" and that i need spings/struts. I have like 150k miles on this car so the timing is probably right. So my question is, how much should they charge for this? Also, what should i have them order and install? Im not trying to lower or anything like that, OEM or a slight upgrade is what im looking for....
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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I have a 2003 Sport Trac 4wd with 299,000 miles. There is what sounds like wheel bearing noise (grinding) that was noticed after returning from a trip where I flat towed it behind my rv. I did not notice the noise the last time I drove it - before towing it about 450 miles. I have towed this vehicle for many years and miles this way - transmission and transfer case in neutral with key in on position to unlock steering. I stated this part about the towing because the noise may have gone unnoticed for many miles. About 20,000 miles ago, I changed front wheel bearings, brake calipers, upper and lower ball joints, shocks and outer tie rod ends. Also rear brake pads.
I put the vehicle on jack stands and in drive mode couldn't hear anything in either 2wd or 4wd. I held one wheel at a time so the other side would spin. After checking for wobbling wheel bearings, I took off the wheels and did a push / pull on everything - all seems good. I changed driver's side wheel bearing anyway because I thought it to be a little rough. I removed the front drive shaft and took it out on the road. Noise was still there. This makes me think front differential but before entering unknown territory (for me) is there something else I can do to narrow down the problem? At this point, I'm not even convinced it is from the front end - maybe the sound is radiating through the truck.
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2007 explorer makes a grinding sound I feel in the gas pedal upon acceleration. Also hesitates when acceleration on highway.....
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I got a strange one. 03 expl 4x4 xlt, started making a weird sound, almost like a rubbing, or a light grinding, comparable to the sound and seat of the pants feel you would get if say you ran out of good brake lining and were creeping the car forward at half mph while dragging the breaks slightly but (except it is when you are stopped and in P). Break pads are fine, just when you come to a stop and put it in park. lasts for about 1-3 seconds. No tranny slippage or other issues yet, all seems to be working. I don't use 4x4 hardly at all but not in last 6 months since there is no snow. Since it is so short I cannot pop the hood to track it down. Torque converter? Fan clutch?
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Alright so I'm having a problem with my 2003 Ford Explorer. I've recently noticed that when I get to above 40 mph, if my steering wheel is straight, I hear a loud kind of grinding or humming sound coming from my left driver side front. If I am going about 65 mph, it gets even louder and if I crank the steering wheel to the left, that's when it really gets noisy but as soon as I crank it to the right, the problems gone. When I do hear the hummin sound, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I have replaced al of the tires and it didn't work. Also, the car slightly pulls me to the right.
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We are planning on taking our 07 Explorer in to the dealer to have them check on a couple of issues. 4.0 with auto and about 45,000 miles on the ody.
1. While taking off after waiting at a stop light or slow speed traffic crawling there is a high revving sound coming from the engine compartment. Sounds like the fan is over revving compared to the engine speed.
2. Recently the truck has a hard time going into reverse. Physically hard to move the gear select lever and there is a hard "thunk" when it does actually shift into reverse.
I just want to be armed with information before heading to the dealer. The truck is still under a warranty plan, I just need to be prepared. Could it have to do with the Transmission Range/Position Sensor?
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08 ES350 with 52k miles has a grinding sound in reverse. Brake pads were inspected - ok. Suspect that parking brake shoe is worn. Any tips on teardown/replacement ?
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Well, today i had my first bout with tranny issues of any kind either before or after my BTS installation. After sitting all day at work, heading home, the shift i guess from 2-3 at about 40-50 mph shifted really hard, BANG. Heard a whirring/whining sound, lots of slipping with the TC. After a lil ways it was like it was in neutral.
Coasted to stop. Went thru the gears from park, rev, and drive about 3 times, got movement each time. Got out, looked for obvious, no fluids or linkages apparent. Drove thru town about 25-30 mph. Felt like it was "hunting" and shifted like a manual grinding gears. Got on highway and no overdrive and im thinking no high gear either.
Push button on shifter light changes, but no change in operation. Running 60 and rpms are turning 2700ish. Still "hunting". But while hunting it isn't wide rpm swings, just a small amount, not wide enough for a gear shift. I am thinking that its torque converter constantly engaging and disengaging.
While letting out of gas it coasts down with TC still locked up all the way down to about 1100 rpm before unlocking. Then I start seeing the OD light flashing. Ok, classic wire chafe in steering column. But it doesn't always flash, only sometimes. And fuses are good. Temps never got above 150 during this 50 mile drive.
So i get home (and its frigging dark already, i hate that this time of year) and I log on and start reading up on this again to refresh my memory. I had called Brian over at BTS when it happened as i was going down the road, he was busy at time. He called me after i got home and i explained and he talked me thru some things. Wanted me to pull the codes and get back with him tomorrow. I did that and the screen shot is below. I will talk more with Brian tomorrow.
But during some of my reading i think i came across some others that had similar trans codes and the issue ended up being the alternator. Alternator ? For trans issues? Is that right? I guess stranger things have happened. I have a high output alt waiting to be installed but haven't yet. I guess we shall see. Brian thinks it something telling the TC and trans to act that way. Doesn't think anything mechanical, yet, leaning towards electrical.
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So every once in a while, my A/C starts to sound like it's struggling. The force of the air gets stronger and weaker, and it starts to make a whirring noise (much louder than it should be). The temperature is fine, it's just the blowing air.
It will continue like this for weeks or months, then eventually when I start the car (particularly if I'm in my parking garage at work for some reason?!?! - could be a coincidence) the A/C won't blow at all. If I hold my hand near the vent, I can feel cold air - but it's just sitting there, not getting blown into the cabin.
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I was driving out of a parking lot and as I accelerated onto the main road my vehicle stopped. I heard a grinding sound and could not go forward or reverse. While the car is in drive, park or reverse my car will roll any which way. It pushed it across the street. I tried to locate my tranny dipstick via visual inspection and manual. I could not find it. Could the stick have never been put back at some point in service and caused this issue. That seems unlikely but the thought occurred. Could it be the velocity joint? Whatever it is it certainly sounds like a transmission issue.
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I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord (4 Cylinder, 180,000 miles). After a recent blizzard here in Wisconsin I am hearing a "whirring" sound coming from the front end of my car. I begin to hear it at about 10mph and it gets progressively louder and begins to sound like a jet at cruising altitude. The car overall sounds louder on the road. I checked for the possibility of snow/ice packed around the wheels or underneath the car but don't see any. A wheel bearing possibly?
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I just recently bought a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 OHV, 4x4 with about 150,000 miles.
I've had the vehicle for about a month, and ever since I bought it, it's had a grinding sound (sounded like wheel bearing) coming from the front right side. I replaced both right and left bearing/hub assemblies, and took it out for a drive. The initial sound that I thought was bearing noise is still there, and at about 65mph I started to get a little bit of steering wheel shake. I took my foot off the gas and it stopped. I accelerated up to about 70mph and it seemed ok.
I hit a VERY small bump in the road and the steering wheel started shaking like hell. So bad that I almost lost control. I slammed the brakes and the shake stopped instantly. I took it home and put it up in the air, half expecting to see something loose or broken, and everything looks perfect. I re-torqued everything that I had taken apart for the initial hub/bearing replacement, and took it out again. Same issues.
I never had ANY of these problems before I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies, so I'm completely confused. I was thinking CV joints, but I have no clicking at all when turning, in forward or reverse, everything is smooth. Outer tie rods were done about 6 weeks ago..
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I've got a 2005 Volvo V50. High Mileage (230000). Timing belt replaced at 200k. Runs really nice, until this evening. Inserted the key and turned over but instead of starting it made whirring robot noises and read "brake failure message" and "immobilizar" after turning key to off position. It's really cold out. 0 degrees. What's the next move?
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I have a 99 voyager that has started making a whirring sound this last week. The water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner have all been replace several months ago. The battery light came on for about a minute and then went off the last night. I checked the voltage with the engine running and it measured 12.5, the same as when it is off. When I revved it up the voltage went up to 14.4 volts. Is this normal? What could be making the whirring sound?
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I have a 2001 f 350 7.3 diesel r 400 tranny 320000 miles. . Im having transmission issues. It makes a slight whine/ grinding noise only in first And reverse. And it surges. Sometimes its fine though to. Check engine light came on. Only codes i get are #4 glow plug out and a low boost pressure. Checked boost before fixin Running fine at the normal about 20 psi. ive read a bad or dirty map or iat sensor can cause transmission issues along with the low boost error code. But in my experience and some reading it sounds like a stall converter.
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