Ford - Explorer :: 1999 4WD - Where Does The Rear Axle Brake Line Go
Jun 8, 2013
I am replacing the rear steel brake lines and I have a bit of a mystery...when the lines come off the wheels, I see them going over the pineapple and it LOOKS like it's just coming down the other side into the other wheel. That should be impossible, right? How would it go about getting brake fluid into the system?
I can't see on top of the pineapple, so I don't exactly know whats going on up there. I don't see any hydraulic hose coming from the top of the pineapple. I'm currently clueless as to how the rear brake lines fit together.
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I made a bone head mistake and crunched the steel brake line between the rear axle and the passenger side sway bar mount. Truck is a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3. I would like to go to the auto parts store, get bulk steel brake line and bend it myself. But, I don't know what size the line is or what size the fittings are. Whatare the sizes???
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so while replacing the rear brake lines in my 2001 F-250. / 5.4, the flex line that drops from the frame bolts to the axle through the axle breather threaded vent line. The friggin thing crumbled on me and now I can't find a replacement for it. Where I can get it or what it's actual name / part number is so I can call the Ford dealer and hope it's not obsoleted?
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How does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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I have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
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The axle seal is bad on my 93 Explorer, manual, 4x4 both sides. The shocks and leaf springs are also shot. Instead of replacing the seals, was advised to just replace the entire axle and pick one up at the boneyard with springs.
I am wondering what axles from other vehicles will work? I have been able to find this before through RockAuto's website but there is no information concerning rear axle. Is there a source showing interchangeable parts between vehicles? Aside from the body, Explorer is basically rebuilt now, just needs the gearbox replaced.
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2000 Explorer: on the drivers side is what looks like a vent hose coming off the axle housing. Is it a vent and why??
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I own a 2003 Explorer, 4.0 v6, w/93k. When turning either direction from a stop I get a shudder from the rear end. Ford has issue tsb # 17717 but I cannot fix the fix, only a description of the problem. Where can I find a fix I wondered?
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I have a 2003 Explorer EB that on deceleration of all speeds, the drivers side rear axle is popping or clicking. Could this be a CV joint? It does not happen on acceleration.
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Routine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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I have heard that the front brakes are separate, and if the rear brakes have a leak and the line is empty, the fronts should still work. Is this likely to be true? If I drive the truck will I be able to stop with the fronts alone (assuming they will still work?)
I plan to drop the truck off late tonight when there is likely to be no traffic, but thought I would ask.
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Working on putting this project back together and cant find my notes when I pulled it apart last year. Any schematic or picture of their brake lines from the master cylinder to the rabs or front brakes? Better yet, which port on the master cylinder goes to what axle?
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1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
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It's the '99 Escort again, about 80K miles, now with the son and his bride in Chicago. He reports a clanking noise, maybe from the "rear axle" (a misnomer, I believe), when cornering at the high end of normal cornering speed (15 mph??). No noise at low speed. No info on if the noise is periodic or if it varies with speed (except on/off). No info if braking changes the noise. Lug nuts are tight (my not hopeful wild guess of a cause). I told him it's probably not DIY anyhow, and the car goes to a mechanic tomorrow. What we should expect to find (just to gain confidence in the diagnosis)?
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Last night we had some serious rain and I went through a pretty deep water puddle at speed. I didn't see it until I was right on top of it. This morning I see a vent line of some sort hanging under the truck. The end is attached to the real axle on the left side and on the other end is a plastic connector. I have searched high and low and can not see where this connects to.
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First, I am fortunate that I was only going 25 mph when some turned in front of me causing me to slam on the brakes. The pedal went to the floor, but did slow the truck enough to miss the jerk. Had I been on the highway, it would have been very bad.
Anyway, what I found is still hard for me to believe for two reasons. It find it hard to believe it failed, but more important that I am getting the last national inventory of 2 of the 3 lines in this picture (according to my Ford dealer).
The three lines are almost directly under the front end of the master cylinder between the block and frame. These are as I found them. The larger one goes to the rear feeding both rear brakes while the two smaller run to the front brakes. The spring looking part below is just a plastic protector. The line which failed goes to the front left.
I think anyone with a 2005 SuperDuty which uses the same or similar parts should take a very close look at the flex sections. The parts I have ordered are: 6C3Z-2B523-BA, 6C3Z-2263-BA, and 6C3Z-2264-BA (rear, right, and left).
How long a manufacture is required to maintain inventory? I thought 7 years, but someone suggested 17. I'm at 8 years, but I would have expected more than 1 each of the fronts to be available. Do they changed parts on the '06 or '07?
My 350 spent 2 winters in the Chicago area and has been resting in Florida since 2006. No work was done in this area, but the closest work was the main fuel pump (frame mounted) replaced 2 years ago, but that is almost 2 feet to the rear.
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