My 98 explorer is hiccuping when i am stopped for more than a few seconds and when I press the gas to get going it stutters. It only does this if I am stopped at a light or stop sign for a few minutes. Once I get going again it runs fine. The check engine light is not on and I have replaced the o2 sensors and spark plugs. I am at a loss on what to do next.
View 6 RepliesA few weeks ago I replaced my CPS on the 99 7.3. Today was the first day I drove my truck in the rain. When I turned my wipers on, I noticed that I lost power and my truck started hiccuping. I read on these forums that an aftermarket CPS is most likely the problem, so I am planning on getting a ford CPS this afternoon. My biggest concern is that before I replaced my CPS, my wipers only had 2 speeds. Also, if I pressed the end of the blinker switch to squirt the cleaner the wipers would not turn off until I turned the truck off. I am not sure why this would be happening and I wanted to ask if there is more than just the CPS involved with this.
View 7 RepliesI have a 09 Subaru Forester (automatic) with 56,300 miles on it. Within the last 100 miles, the transmission has started 'hiccuping' as it changes gears. Also, when the car is cold and first started up, as I drive the rpms rise to around 3k when switching gears; sometimes holding there for anywhere from 3 seconds to 12 seconds before finally changing gears. As the car warms up, this problem disappears, but the 'hiccuping' continues. I took it to the dealer and they flushed out the transmission fluid, but problem still persists. I called the dealership asking for a new transmission because it is still under warranty, but they refused. They are going to check pan for metal shavings, and if they're present then they'll replace trans. If not, then they will replace other parts until problem is fixed.
Also, another important question: If I had the transmission fluid replaced, would it be possible that they may have cleaned out any metal shavings, and when they check 100 miles later, there wouldn't be any? I'm worried that I'm going to get screwed because they eliminated any metal shavings and when they go to look again none will be there because there hasn't been enough mileage put on the car to make them appear again. I do not know enough about cars to know if this is even a possibility. They refuse to honor the warranty until they go through a checklist of possible repairs, and I'm nervous that list will run out when I hit 61,000 miles and warranty runs out.
Got a 98 explorer eddie bauer and the low beams went out. A search through the console revealed this explore doesn't have the lamp/light out module. So i guess a multifunction switch would be the next place to go? Fuses look good too btw.
View 3 RepliesMy 98 Limited started blowing hot air yesterday, even in Max AC. It even blows hot air out the defroster when the climate control is shut off. It started doing this 2 days ago, but I could still get sporadic cold air from Max AC, but now nothing. What could be the problem?
View 8 RepliesOkay here is my issue : I have explorer 98 v6 4.0L 4wd .. I changed my transfer case with the shift motor because the old one was making noise and grind .. I put a good used and tested transfer case but once i started the car to test it I noticed its feels loke stuck in 4 low ..
I parked the car and switched it to 4wd Hi. The light of 4wd hi came ON in the dash. Then I put the shifter in Neutral and moved the switched to 4wd low but the light of 4wd hi stayed ON never seen the 4 low light in the dash. I'm so confused and disappointed now. Even with the old bad transfer case it was fine other than the noise the transfer case making.
I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler, manual transmission, 6-cylinder. I accidentally let the battery die in September. I got a jump, and it was fine until we got a cold snap. (We live in NJ.) On the first cold day (October), the battery was dead again. The battery is about 4 years old. I got it jumped, and it was fine, but the CE light came on. I have been dealing with the CE light and generally lousy engine performance ever since. (The car is lurching and hiccuping.) I have had it to the shop four times since the initial dead battery in September.
I bring it to the shop, they hook it up to the computer, and each time it indicates a sensor problem. They have replaced the 02 sensor, the TPS sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced several spark plugs, and swapped out the clockspring. It has been to the shop four times in the past 5 weeks. I even switched mechanics after the first one said he was going to replace the 02 sensor and I looked at my records and pointed out that he had already done that back in June. (At that point, they said "Oh"" and tried replacing the TPS sensor.) The 2nd mechanic also got the TPS sensor code and I told him that the previous mechanic had already replaced that one, as well.
He went to a discussion website for mechanics and discovered a "design flaw" that a majority of mechanics said could be rectified by replacing the clockspring. So he tried that. Every time one of these guys does something, the CE light goes off and they test-drive it and it seems fine. Then I come to pick it up, after hours, hours later, when the car has completely cooled off, and the CE light is back on. Yesterday I picked it up and the CE light was on but at least it was running better. Then I drove it 90 miles and it was hiccuping badly by the end of the trip. Also, I filled up my gas tank at the beginning of the trip, and the tank is now between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Horrible mileage. My husband made the same trip in a different car, also a Jeep, and also filled up at the beginning, and his tank is more than 3/4 full.
I know I can take it to Auto Zone and get the code, but I'm not hopeful that the code will say anything other than what it has already said, i.e. O2 or TPS sensor.
When idling and when first start to accelerate it feels like my car is hiccuping. I don't know what the issue is. I do know When i first bought The car about 8 months ago the oils Got wet when The dealer power washed he engine.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 with 200K miles. I plugged an OBII scanner with live data readings and my o2 sensors never relayed any information (voltage), they all ead -100% and the voltage never changed. Could all four be bad? I left the truck running for 15 minutes with the scanner attached and nothing changed.
BANK 1 SENSOR 1 = -100%
BANK 1 SENSOR 2 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 1 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 2 = - 100%
I was told by the dealership that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced ( which I did) I went out to my car this morning and had the same problem. When I turn the key nothing happens. When I turn the key you hear a click but that is it.
View 3 RepliesGot a call from my little sister about two weeks ago that her Ford Explorer would not drive forward. Checked it out and put it into second to get it home.Last weekend me and my dad changed the filter and fluid and then drove it for a bit. It sounded a little better but still would go into drive or reverse. We shifted into second which we knew worked and then back into reverse immediately and now reverse worked, although sluggish. The same was true for drive. A few days later dad changed a solenoid and now it will go into drive and go up to 15mph, but will not shift from first to overdrive first. And still no reverse right away. She is able to get to school with second gear and pop into drive when she gets up to 40-45mph. If she has to backup from start, first she has to put it into second and then back to reverse. Something in overdrive doesn't seem to be doing its job right.
View 3 RepliesMy ford just suddenly started backfiring and started smelling like this sulfer kind of smell and knew I needed a new exhaust so I got a new tailpipe and muffler and problem still persisted so then I replaced the driver side catalytic converter because I had noticed after driving it that it was smoking after driving it. So now I've replaced that and i still got the smell and it just rides rougher and the check engine light is blinking after driving a couple minutes....
View 9 RepliesI'm thinking about buying a 98 Explorer that has an ABS light on. I haven't looked at it yet. In the ad, the seller claims it's due to worn brake pads in the rear. If that's true, then it's not a big deal. Can the ABS light be set by worn pads? Most of my cars are too old to detect this, but even if they did, I wouldn't know because I never let my pads get that low.
View 7 RepliesHave 1998 Explorer with 5R55E tranny and the automatic transmission extension housing seal keeps coming off, allowing a fluid leak. I just replaced it and it's doing it again. When I put it in there, it seemed tight, but... How to keep this thing in there?
View 3 RepliesMy explorer 98 seat lumbar does not work. When i push the switch i only hear a motor noise and nothing happens. How to fix that?
View 6 Repliesmy wifes explorer is getting no fuel. (there is a valve I depressed similaR to a tire valve, I pressed it once some fuel dribbled out, and thats it, turned the key several times and not a drop off fuel. I went as far as checking the fuse, the fuse is not blown. what are my next steps of trouble shooting.
View 8 RepliesHas happened twice now but last night I had to disconnect the battery. A few years ago the driver's door switch was replaced for the same reason. I would do it again but I can't find anything that looks like a switch. Where that thing is? It is a '98 Explorer XLT.
View 4 RepliesMy '98 4.0L Explorer Sport will begin to overheat if I'm in stopped traffic for more than 5 mins. on a hot day with the A/C on. I can correct it by turning off the A/C. Would a different thermostat work? If so, what temperature do I need?
View 5 Replies1998 explore will not start when hot will turn over sputter and die, after 15 minutes it will start right up that was last monday when it was 80 outside it now colder outside has not done it again, the only thing i have seen that temp gauge is not going past cold never getting to center it will try and drop back down...
View 11 RepliesOk when I turn on my explorer the rectangular portion of the headlights light up but are fairly dim. When I I turn the switch from the off position to the first position, the front and rear parking lights come on, but when I turn the switch to the final position, ie the headlights on, nothing happens. My high beams still work in both the flash position and the on position, and the bulbs and fuses are good. I'm at a loss of what to do.
View 3 RepliesAfter truck gets warm it won't restart.
View 5 Replies