Just replaced a badly worn Hub on my 98 AWD Explorer. The grinding noise is gone but now the steering is binding/shaking during stopped or low speed turns. What is going on or what I might have done wrong?
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 Eddie with V8 and AWD. On turns everything was binding making the turn almost impossible to take. The front hubs have been replaced and it now has four new tires. This is a great deal as the Anti-lock sensors in the hubs were throwing a code and the bearings were shot. This made a difference but there is still some binding taking place. This truck is a daily driver so need to know where to go from here. I pulled two fuses that were listed as "4wd v-batt" but this made no difference so I put the fuses back. My mechanics Snap-on modis computer doesn't find any codes at present, so we are confused. Nice vehicle, but this is driving me crazy.
View 13 RepliesI have some big time slop in my steering wheel, and what started as a type of binding when turning sometimes, is now really sloppy - almost dangerous
Is this the intermediate steering shaft? I just want to be 100% sure that I get the right thing before I buy it, as it's a dealer only part.
I just put on headers and after running into the infamous rattle sound I found an additional issue. The steering linkage seems to be rubbing or binding on right hand turns. Any normal 90 degree right hand turn will prevent me from taking the wheel beyond a certain point. I have had to make wide swooping turns. I feel the steering wheel stop further progress turning to the right and it gets a heavy rattle feel in the steering wheel.
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
My '98 4.0L Explorer Sport will begin to overheat if I'm in stopped traffic for more than 5 mins. on a hot day with the A/C on. I can correct it by turning off the A/C. Would a different thermostat work? If so, what temperature do I need?
View 5 RepliesMy wife informed me about a noise coming from the chassis of her truck.
2007 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 OHV, AT, 89,000 miles on the odometer.
We took the truck to dinner last night so I could investigate the problem. This occurs while only making left hand turns at slow speed.
There is a definite clunk sound AND feel. It actually sounds and feels like we are driving over a loose manhole cover, and IT DOES feel like metal to metal contact on the driverʻs sids of the truck.
I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
View 7 RepliesThe right turn signal on my 1998 Ford Explorer recently stopped working. The flasher was making a horrible buzzing sound when I tried to signal right, but worked fine signaling left.
I just replaced the flasher, which has cleared up the buzzing noise when trying to signal right. The flasher clicks like it's supposed to, but the lights still do not flash.
Here's a summary of the current symptoms:
-Hazard lights work fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Left right signal indicator works fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Right turn signal does not work
-Flasher clicks
-Interior indicator stash off; exterior lights stay off
What to check next???
I purchased a second hand 2000 Prius for my wife about a year ago and the car has been awesome. A few months ago she started experiencing a steering vibration only at low speed when cold and steering wheel turned sharply.
It got worse till you could feel a slight vibration when even going straight, I tried to scan the OBDII for faults but my scanner would not even work on the Prius.
I search online and bought a U380 OBDII scanner but since it would take a while to get to me I decided to disconnect the 12v to reset the computer (and fix my map lights while disconnected) when I reconnected the 12v the car started ran for about 10 seconds then cut out with the red triangle showing. I thought maybe I had done something wrong and the immobilizer had cut the engine, went inside to check my manual I had bought(cd version) on my computer and google search but found nothing.
Went out and disconnected the battery again and reconnected with same results. After some more searching went to car and it started right up no triangle. Here is the strange part, for the next several days the steering was great no shake at all and even the slight vibration was gone. Over the next few weeks it has slowly been coming back again but still not near as bad as it was, I finally got my scanner and scanned it but it shows no codes. I have not seen anywhere if successfully repaired this type of problem without replacing the whole steering rack but maybe I am missing something, anyway I have a couple of questions in my quest not to replace the rack.
1) Is it possible that it has the zero adjust error and my scanner is not reading it?
2) My repair manual(although it does not seem very good) shows resistors with some kind of contacts in with the torque sensors, is it possible these contacts just need cleaning?
I just finished replacing the rack and pinion on a 98 Explorer 5.0 V8 AWD 4dr Eddie Bauer edition. My question is...Should the steering gear lower shaft set flush when it is connected to the Rack and pinion knuckle? I have some wiggle room but I think I have it as far down as I can get it. It is about 1/2" from setting flush on top of the knuckle. Once I tighten the bolt, it should hold, right?
It looks just like the picture on the right.....
This is the first winter I'm driving my truck. I put it in in 4x4 HIGH the other night due to the snow (and I wanted to check out everything).
Seemed to work fine until I was backing into a parking spot doing a full lock turn. It didn't seem to move. I gave it a little more throttle and it "released" like it was stuck or going over an obstacle. Happened again when I did a full turn backing into my driveway (this time turning the opposite way).
It seems to work fine going forward with tight turns. Also and it doesn't "bind" in 4x2 mode. I haven't tried 4x4 LOW yet ... I guess I don't want to wreck anything if it's not operating properly. Is this normal?
Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
I just recently bought a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 OHV, 4x4 with about 150,000 miles.
I've had the vehicle for about a month, and ever since I bought it, it's had a grinding sound (sounded like wheel bearing) coming from the front right side. I replaced both right and left bearing/hub assemblies, and took it out for a drive. The initial sound that I thought was bearing noise is still there, and at about 65mph I started to get a little bit of steering wheel shake. I took my foot off the gas and it stopped. I accelerated up to about 70mph and it seemed ok.
I hit a VERY small bump in the road and the steering wheel started shaking like hell. So bad that I almost lost control. I slammed the brakes and the shake stopped instantly. I took it home and put it up in the air, half expecting to see something loose or broken, and everything looks perfect. I re-torqued everything that I had taken apart for the initial hub/bearing replacement, and took it out again. Same issues.
I never had ANY of these problems before I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies, so I'm completely confused. I was thinking CV joints, but I have no clicking at all when turning, in forward or reverse, everything is smooth. Outer tie rods were done about 6 weeks ago..
I'm sensing a light steering wheel shaking when reaching 70mph. Also during the process of increasing the speed from 25-30mph and above I can hear a sort of beating noise which becomes more consistent when increasing the speed. Car goes straight (no left - right wandering). Now I'm assuming it may be something related with the bearings, but I guess the only way to find out is by sending it to a repair shop to understand if the noise come from one or two bearings and from front or the rear bearings?!
View 2 Replies1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
I have a 98 Explorer Eddie Bauer edition with electronic climate control w/ steering wheel temp and fan controls.
Just yesterday, I was running the a/c set at 74 degrees and it was working great as usual. Then suddenly the fan went from high speed to nothing. The auto control was still on, just the fan stopped blowing. After about a minute when the inside of the vehicle heated up some, the fan kicked back in on high speed. I tried to adjust the fan speed via the steering wheel switches and found that the fan only has high and off speeds.
What should I look for that would cause the fan speeds to stop working or only work on high?
1998 V6 4.0L
I know from what I've read that this tsb should have been addressed on my vehical (04 V8 early vin). The car has had two previous owners and the 2nd purchased as vw certified. I bought the Treg when it had been certified again 18 months later, so why does this "binding" due to the stepper motor software still exist after all tsb's have been performed
Its happened twice in three weeks now........when you shut down and start again everything is ok.
I have a binding and clicking-ish noise at low speed. Is that a sign of a bad axle?
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2004 F250 Crew Cab LB 4x4 with the 5.4 Motor and when I turn left it has some Tight Spots and I can't figure out why, I checked the Drive axles to make sure the locking hubs were unlocked and they spun freely, I Also have a lot of play in the steering wheel, Could this all be Related to the Steering Box? What else should I check for ?
View 3 RepliesI have a 01 Chrysler Sebring 4D Sedan. I have been working on cars many years, never done tie rods. This my first attempt, I messed something up I believe. I replaced both inner tie rods and outer ends. I followed what I thought was correct procedure., counted turns on ends coming off. Installed new ones the same amount of turns. Before I did this the steering was fine. Now when I turn sharp to the right or left, like turning in to a driveway, I get an awful binding grinding noise, and I can feel it shimmy in the wheel. It will even stop the car going hard right. I can see evidence of rubbing on the CV boot closest to the wheel on the pass side. I assume I messed up somewhere with setting the steering when I installed the Tie rod ends to the wheel hubs.
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