I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
View 7 RepliesThe right turn signal on my 1998 Ford Explorer recently stopped working. The flasher was making a horrible buzzing sound when I tried to signal right, but worked fine signaling left.
I just replaced the flasher, which has cleared up the buzzing noise when trying to signal right. The flasher clicks like it's supposed to, but the lights still do not flash.
Here's a summary of the current symptoms:
-Hazard lights work fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Left right signal indicator works fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Right turn signal does not work
-Flasher clicks
-Interior indicator stash off; exterior lights stay off
What to check next???
I got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
View 4 RepliesGot a call from my little sister about two weeks ago that her Ford Explorer would not drive forward. Checked it out and put it into second to get it home.Last weekend me and my dad changed the filter and fluid and then drove it for a bit. It sounded a little better but still would go into drive or reverse. We shifted into second which we knew worked and then back into reverse immediately and now reverse worked, although sluggish. The same was true for drive. A few days later dad changed a solenoid and now it will go into drive and go up to 15mph, but will not shift from first to overdrive first. And still no reverse right away. She is able to get to school with second gear and pop into drive when she gets up to 40-45mph. If she has to backup from start, first she has to put it into second and then back to reverse. Something in overdrive doesn't seem to be doing its job right.
View 3 RepliesHe has a 2002 Explorer 4.6. The truck is having a hard time going into reverse intermittently, hard shift in normal driving and thinks it has slipped in first gear going up his driveway that is steep. He is worried that he put slightly over sized tires and this may hurt his tranny. The overdrive has blinked twice with in the year. Possible problems that could create this he is thinking solenoid pack, servos, torque converter. The truck has 110k and never done fluids, Would lucas slip fix or hurt we have heard that these tranny's are finicy.
View 1 RepliesMy '98 4.0L Explorer Sport will begin to overheat if I'm in stopped traffic for more than 5 mins. on a hot day with the A/C on. I can correct it by turning off the A/C. Would a different thermostat work? If so, what temperature do I need?
View 5 RepliesWhat is going on with my dad's car. This car is a 2000 Ford Taurus with about 160,000 miles. In the morning, when he starts the car and drives away, sometimes the speedometer will not work and the automatic transmission will not shift out of first gear. After a few miles, the transmission will suddenly upshift and the speedometer will jump from 0 to the current speed. The door locks will also lock at the same time (they normally lock upon reaching a set speed). However, the car can be "forced" to shift, start the speedometer, and lock the doors by accelerating to 5000 RPM. The problem appears to have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor, but I don't know what exactly is wrong with that system. The car also knows that something is up as the Check Engine light is on.
What might be wrong with the VSS that causes this problem?
Why can it be forced to shift at 5000 RPMs?
Just replaced a badly worn Hub on my 98 AWD Explorer. The grinding noise is gone but now the steering is binding/shaking during stopped or low speed turns. What is going on or what I might have done wrong?
View 3 RepliesMy explorer 98 seat lumbar does not work. When i push the switch i only hear a motor noise and nothing happens. How to fix that?
View 6 RepliesRecently I had an overheating problem with 98 Montana Transport. I had the fan motors replaced because they weren't turning. That didn't solve the problem tho, it overheated again, it had been slowly losing coolant. Mechanic had the heads repaired (were warped) and replaced head gasket, manifold gasket, valve cover gasket and drained replaced fluids and had plug wires and sparkplugs replaced also.
When he brought it back the radio wasn't working. I know that's not a mechanical problem, but why it's not working. I asked him and he said he's a mechanic and doesn't know about radios. He did say that it might have something to do with the anti theft system, but I don't have a clue how to reset. Since the van is older, where could I find out about the codes for resetting? He checked the fuses too.
I have had 2 transmissions brought to me, both complaining of no reverse. The first belongs to my nieghbor, its an 2005 F-150 4wd. He says last week it made a loud "POP" noise and reverse stopped working. This is a truck he uses for his work and its got 337K on it. A remanufactured transmission was installed at 70K.
The fluid in this transmission was very dark and dirty. I doubt it had been changed since the reman transmission was installed. Once I got the transmission apart, I found the reverse band was worn and broken. This is cast band, so it would make a rather loud "POP" when it breaks.
The sungear bushing was worn and grooved and scored the snout on the direct drum. The Over drive band was burned and pitted.
Since this is a remanfactured transmission the case is painted gray, the paint is blistering from heat. The torque converter has been so hot the paint blistered and the metal was rusting.
The sealing rings on the pump stator had cut mild grooves into the reverse drum and the snap ring that holds the intermediate one way clutch on the reverse drum was bent and about to fail.
The over drive servo snap ring was broken, which seems to be common on these trucks. The aftermarket replacement snap ring is hardened to resist breaking and is black in color
This transmission will be rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, clutches, both bands and reman torque converter. The overdrive band and low/reverse band will be upgraded with new bands that have a high carbon friction material, that will resist burning, installing a spiral snap ring and replacing the direct drum and sun gear.
The second transmission that lost reverse is from a 2006 F150 4wd. The owner of this truck removed the transmission himself and brought it to me. I am told the truck has a lift kit and larger tire. The residual fluid is clean and bright red. The owner has a drain plug installed in the pan, so I can assume the fluid is changed regularly.
Once I got the transmission part, the only damage I found was a broken reverse band. It appears this band has been broken for a while since 2 of the fingers on the band that would still engage were worn to the metal and and the friction material is burned. The band surface on planetary gear was slightly scored. Everything else in the transmission shows very little wear.
This transmission will be rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, clutches, both bands and reman torque converter. The overdrive band and low/reverse band will be upgraded with new bands that have a high carbon friction material, that will resist burning. Also installing a spiral locking ring on the intermediate one way clutch.
I have a friend who has a 2003 Explorer and all his windows stopped working.
I checked all the fuses under dash and hood and found that none of them were shorted, even swapped my window circuit breaker off of my Ex and still could not get them to work. I took a test light to all the power wires in the door and noticed that he wasn't getting positive power and that he had negative to the switches. I ran a jumper wire from the battery and could get the windows to work. I removed the door panel and traced the wire all the way through the rubber boot at the door jam but could not get any juice. The circuit relay has power to it but don't know where else to look!
What else should I look for? Is there another place that he might've lost contact or another fuse/switch somewhere that I didn't see. Looking for a wire diagram for the power windows that would also kinda trace faults.
I have a 2000 explorer and the a/c stopped working. I recharged the a/c because freon was low per the gauges and then the compressor would kick on, then the pressure would drop in a matter of seconds and it kicked off again. Then the pressure goes back up, compressor kicks on again and this just keeps doing this over and over but never gets cold. What's wrong? My a/c worked last year.
View 6 RepliesI drive a 98 Ford Contour Sport. When I was driving today, I signaled a left turn, and the signal began working erratically. This also happened with a right turn, and, since I deliver sandwiches, happened when I turned my hazards on. Throughout the day it got worse, and eventually stopped working. I'm willing to bet that it's a wiring issue since all of my fuses are fine.
View 5 RepliesI got a 1998 Trans Sport Montana that has a dead speedometer. The computer knows how fast the car is going because I've seen the live data. I've also changed out the cluster and the problem is still there. I have a schematic of the wire that goes from the ecm to the instrument cluster, but it goes through an accessory connector block. Where this connector block is?
View 2 RepliesI recently got a pretty cherry 98 Ranger 3.0 2wd extended cab auto. So far all it has needed was wiper blades, floor mats and a heater blend door. Last week my daughter informed me that the flashers and the turn signals stopped working. I looked for blown fuses and then took the low road and just bought a new flasher (my alldatadiy manual showed that the flasher was common to the turn signals and the hazard flashers so I took a shot at just throwing a part at it). That didn't fix it or else. Any pointers?
View 3 RepliesI have a moonroof & there were no map light bulbs, so I tried putting them in place but the electric connection there wasn't so good (there is a plastic covered with wires) so the bulbs are in but it doesn't work. What worst is, that now all the interior lights (glove box & rear dome) don't work as well!! nor the power windows & moonroof don't work now (it worked before). I guess that I have touched something or a fuse broke... I don't know what to do...
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 Ford Explorer and the cruise control stopped working about a year ago. The horn still works. I changed the fuse but it's still not working. My mechanic checked the cruise control, and was able to determine it was either the clock spring or the control module located above the glove box. He told me it was most likely a bad clock spring, especially considering the number of miles on the truck (385,000). However, in speaking with a Ford dealership parts department, the '94 Ford Explorer does not have a clock spring. So, I'm back to square one.
View 3 RepliesMy power windows and door lock controls on all doors have stopped working. No blown fuses and the local parts who says that locks and windows don't run on the same relay? I don't have a garage and cant really secure my vehicle?
View 3 RepliesMy entry pad on the outside of the drivers door stopped working on my 2002 Explorer. Not only does it not open the doors but they don't light up when push the buttons. I looked in the owners manuel for a fuse related to this but did not see one. Which fuse the number pad is controlled by?
View 5 RepliesThe driver side lock actuator on my 1999 Explorer has stopped working. It got so I couldn't even use the key to lock the driver door. I know I can get a replacement part, but after taking of the door panel and trying to get at the actuator, I am concerned about doing the work myself. Any tricks for making the job easier? Are there special tools that would make it easier? Or would it be best just to take it to a repair shop and let them do it?
View 6 Replies