Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Overheats While Stopped For 5 Minutes?
Jul 16, 2016
My '98 4.0L Explorer Sport will begin to overheat if I'm in stopped traffic for more than 5 mins. on a hot day with the A/C on. I can correct it by turning off the A/C. Would a different thermostat work? If so, what temperature do I need?
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I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
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Just replaced a badly worn Hub on my 98 AWD Explorer. The grinding noise is gone but now the steering is binding/shaking during stopped or low speed turns. What is going on or what I might have done wrong?
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The right turn signal on my 1998 Ford Explorer recently stopped working. The flasher was making a horrible buzzing sound when I tried to signal right, but worked fine signaling left.
I just replaced the flasher, which has cleared up the buzzing noise when trying to signal right. The flasher clicks like it's supposed to, but the lights still do not flash.
Here's a summary of the current symptoms:
-Hazard lights work fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Left right signal indicator works fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Right turn signal does not work
-Flasher clicks
-Interior indicator stash off; exterior lights stay off
What to check next???
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So if I let my car idle for more than 5 minutes the car starts to over heat. The engine fans do not turn on. I was waiting for wife and fell alseep in the car and it idled for about 20 minutes, I woke up to the audio alert and a red temp light in dash.
The temp was almost all the way to the right. I shut the car off for a few, restarted and drove and the temp went back to normal. Took home and checked for fans and neither of them are turning on. Assuming it is a switch or sensor issue.
So my question is did I do any long term damage by getting engine so hot? Taking to delaer tomorrow AM. This should be covered under power train warranty, right? If not how about certified warranty?
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After running at normal temperature for about 10 minutes, my car starts to overheat. I noticed my radiator fan wasn't running at any speed, but my auxiliary fan was running fine. I checked the thermal switch and that was okay, because the auxiliary A/C fan still worked after jumping, and the big fan didn't. I replaced the fan assembly and now both fans work fine, so I assume that my thermostat is okay (maybe not and I'm missing something?). Even though both fans are running, my car still overheats, but maybe after 15 minutes now as opposed to 10. Water pump seems to be fine because I can see it pumping back into the coolant reservoir, and it doesn't seem to be sputtering or anything. Just replaced coolant recently after flushing with water, so I assume that the radiator isn't clogged. I also recently replaced the oil because it needed it anyway. It is still overheating so now I'm stuck. I can get to work and back because it's only a 5 minute trip and it doesn't have time to overheat, but I don't want to keep driving it obviously.
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i have a 05 GTI 1.8T and recently started overheating while driving. for a few months it would overheat if i idled too long but now after driving for 5 minutes it overheats and also wont build any boost. i could hear a hissing sound after i shut the car and thats coming from the flange where the coolant temp sensor is, but is hissing where is mounts to the engine.
update- i replaced the o-ring on the flange, that got rid of the hissing. the no boost must have been due to the engine overheating, but it is still overheating i guess im gonna check the thermostat next.
update 2 - checked thermostat and it is good so I'm at a loss here.
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic with 275,000 miles on it. After driving for an hour or so, it starts getting hot when stopped or nearly stopped. It goes back to normal temperature when I start driving. It does cool down if I turn on the heater. I just changed the timing belt/water pump and put it a new radiator and changed the thermostat hoping it would solve the problem, but it hasn't. I checked and the fan does come on when stopped. Could it be a cooling system clog that a flush might be able to solve or might it be the head gasket?
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I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
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AC blows cold for about 10 minutes and then blows hot?
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Ok this is actually on my girls car, a 2000 Altima. But i know all newer AC systems work the same. Cus its the same set up as my 98 f150. But the AC will work great for the first 15 mins or so then i notice the pump stops working(not cycling on/off) So i turn it off for 5 mins and then it starts working again and i hear the pump engaging, but it will only work for like 5 mins now. Could it be a bad pressure cycling switch or clogged condenser and gettn the AC too hot and it shuts down.
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1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4wd 4.0L (California vehicle) runs good for about 15 minutes, then suddenly starts 'chugging,' loses power, and check engine light comes on. After sitting overnight, it will again run good for about 15 minutes, then repeats the problem.
This problem began AFTER smog check test failed (it ran smoothly all the time before) and after, as was recommended to me, I replaced the 02 sensor. (Failure of smog check, it turns out, was more likely because, unknown, a 10" piece of exhaust pipe was missing, so Catalytic Converter was not connected to the tailpipe).
I had a mechanic scope the Explorer but he could not determine a specific failure from the codes, although he suggested possibly it's the missing 'Octane Adjust Shorting Bar,' or maybe the 'crank position sensor' is bad, but he could not give a diagnosis.
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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I have a 2005 f250 6.0 diesel. I have changed the 2 fuel filters, fuel pump, sending unit (was broke off in tank )and installed the blue spring fuel pressure regulator kit. My truck will run for a few minutes loose fuel and kill. Could this be a sensor or computer problem
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Got a 98 explorer eddie bauer and the low beams went out. A search through the console revealed this explore doesn't have the lamp/light out module. So i guess a multifunction switch would be the next place to go? Fuses look good too btw.
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My 98 Limited started blowing hot air yesterday, even in Max AC. It even blows hot air out the defroster when the climate control is shut off. It started doing this 2 days ago, but I could still get sporadic cold air from Max AC, but now nothing. What could be the problem?
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Okay here is my issue : I have explorer 98 v6 4.0L 4wd .. I changed my transfer case with the shift motor because the old one was making noise and grind .. I put a good used and tested transfer case but once i started the car to test it I noticed its feels loke stuck in 4 low ..
I parked the car and switched it to 4wd Hi. The light of 4wd hi came ON in the dash. Then I put the shifter in Neutral and moved the switched to 4wd low but the light of 4wd hi stayed ON never seen the 4 low light in the dash. I'm so confused and disappointed now. Even with the old bad transfer case it was fine other than the noise the transfer case making.
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Every time I start my 1999 Ford Explorer It makes a loud beeping noise similar to seatbelt warning sound. Every 30 minutes or so it does it again as long as the vehicle stays running(even with all seatbelts fastened even if no one is sitting in the seat.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 with 200K miles. I plugged an OBII scanner with live data readings and my o2 sensors never relayed any information (voltage), they all ead -100% and the voltage never changed. Could all four be bad? I left the truck running for 15 minutes with the scanner attached and nothing changed.
BANK 1 SENSOR 1 = -100%
BANK 1 SENSOR 2 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 1 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 2 = - 100%
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I was told by the dealership that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced ( which I did) I went out to my car this morning and had the same problem. When I turn the key nothing happens. When I turn the key you hear a click but that is it.
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Got a call from my little sister about two weeks ago that her Ford Explorer would not drive forward. Checked it out and put it into second to get it home.Last weekend me and my dad changed the filter and fluid and then drove it for a bit. It sounded a little better but still would go into drive or reverse. We shifted into second which we knew worked and then back into reverse immediately and now reverse worked, although sluggish. The same was true for drive. A few days later dad changed a solenoid and now it will go into drive and go up to 15mph, but will not shift from first to overdrive first. And still no reverse right away. She is able to get to school with second gear and pop into drive when she gets up to 40-45mph. If she has to backup from start, first she has to put it into second and then back to reverse. Something in overdrive doesn't seem to be doing its job right.
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