Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - No Start When Parked Nose Down With 1/4 Tank Of Gas
May 28, 2014
My '98 was running fine. It had 272 miles on the tank of gas (from full) when I parked it nose down in the driveway last night. Went to start it at 5:40 in the morning and it would crank fine but wouldn't start. I'm thinking all kinds of things could be wrong. Finally checked for fuel at the fuel rail and nothing. Woke up the wife to assist. Had her turn the key to "ON" and the fuel pump sounded dry.
Put in a couple gallons of gas I had for the lawn mower and it fired up. Gas gauge was about 1/4 on level ground before adding gas. I talked to everyone at work who has an Explorer and they all have had the same thing happen. I'm hoping the fuel pump didn't get damaged from running dry.
I've never had this happen with my Ranger. It happened once on my Aerostar, but it was extremely low on gas and I let it sit idling in the driveway for a long time to bleed the cooling system. Normally, I get gas at 1/4 tank.
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1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
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I have a 1998 F-150 V8 4.6L. Currently has about 83000 miles. I have had this problem twice now. When I park on an incline with the front up hill the engine will not start. It will crank like it is trying to start, but it sounds like its not getting enough fuel. Both times my tank has been nearly full or 3/4 full. Just put on a new fuel filter and the old one was still clean. ( I could blow through it with ease). I think it is the fuel pump.
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1998 explore will not start when hot will turn over sputter and die, after 15 minutes it will start right up that was last monday when it was 80 outside it now colder outside has not done it again, the only thing i have seen that temp gauge is not going past cold never getting to center it will try and drop back down...
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. It was running fine until last Mon. On my 3rd start of the day , it wouldn't stay started long enough to get into gear; sometimes it sputtered violently. I tried starting over the next 2 days with the same outcome so I towed it to mechanic. They replaced spark plugs, wires & started (because it was throw lower voltage than normal). It ran fine the short distance home. The next day, it started fine but sputtered in corners/lower speeds. About 12 miles into the drive, which was at ~60 mph, my auto died and wouldn't start again. What's going on? Could it be the fuel pump?
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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I have a 5.0 Explorer 1998 and it has a problem for which I cannot find a definite solution, everyone says a different thing. The problem is that when the weather is hot, sometimes the engine does a strange thing. You ride the car for some time, especially if you do it on a high speed so the engine is really hot (but no overheating symptoms) - and then you kill the engine and leave it for a few minutes - to walk into a store, let's say.
After that you attempt to start the engine... sometimes it starts, but there were several times when it refused to catch, it cranks, at first tries to start, but stalls... then it just cranks without even attempting to start. And I had one occasion when it stopped working right in the middle of the road while crawling in traffic, but it was really HOT outside. Luckily, all other cases were in our town, so I could at least walk home. So, the problem seems to overheating of something, as in normal or cold weather it never happens. And every time, after the car is left to stay in place for some time, an hour or more, cannot say exactly - it starts perfectly!
I am really tried of this and want to eliminate the reason. But I am hearing so many different opinions about this problem. I thought that it could be the overheating of the fuel pump. But then it would stop working while moving, not after you shut the engine off and the pump cannot be still working and overheating. The only place where the heat can build up when you stop and turn the engine off is under the hood, as the fan stops, the coolant pump stops and the air isn't blowing as the car isn't moving. But the pump is in the tank! And I never ride on empty fuel tank, I always keep some level, lately I tried to keep it even higher, but yesterday it refused to start when the tank was almost half-full. Also, if it was just dying - a dying fuel pump gives certain symptoms like slow acceleration, engine shaking and trying to stall when you press the pedal, sudden stalling, uneven idling etc. In this case, nothing like this. The car's behavior is absolutely normal, acceleration good, normal idle. It happens ONLY under certain conditions, involving heat.
Other people say that it can be due to low pressure in the fuel ramp and the gasoline is starting to boil at some moment, when the temperature under the hood rises to a certain point. As a reason they name the pump (but as I said, I doubt it) or the fuel pressure control valve - don't know its exact name, it's a valve which maintains a certain pressure in the fuel ramp and releases excessive pressure by returning some fuel to the tank. However, when this valve gets stuck and doesn't maintain pressure, it mostly influences the cold start, as the fuel pressure drops and you have to crank for a long time while the pump is building the pressure again. But my car has never had any problems with the cold start, it's always instantaneous. Also, when this problem occurs and you start the engine after it cools down, it catches instantly which means THERE IS pressure in the ramp. So I don't believe in low pressure, gasoline boiling and resulting vapor jams.
And finally, I read that it may be caused by defective/dying engine temperature or crankshaft position sensors. As for the temp sensor, I will replace it tomorrow anyway. I am also thinking of having a look at the crankshaft sensor, where it's located on 5.0 V8?
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer, on a few occasions i have parked my car in my driveway which is level the next morning i come out and the car has moved about 4 foot. Its an automatic, what would cos this to happen with nobody in the car and it's in park???
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My locks on the driver's door do not work when the vehicle is parked. The locks work find from the other doors, the keypad and the remote. Also door ajar light comes on. When the vehicle is moving the locks work fine.
I replace the lock switch, but it didn't make any difference. I loosen the three screws holding the mechanish sprayed with lots to WD40 and moved the mechanism around a little, it worked a couple of times, but then back to nothing.
Thinking about replacing the door ajar switch, but not sure of the relationship to the lock.
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I am driving a 98 passat 1.9tdi. just bought the car. check the pic if u can tell me by the pic where is the oil leak from?? its really badly dripping. the pic showing below is 10 hour after i power wash the underneath the engine. its dripping while the car running or park. Its looks like the leak probably the back of the oil pan.
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I recently acquired a 1983 F-250 regular cab with one previous owner and a known issue...the engine heaving for gas once it dropped to the half-tank mark.
Both fuel pump and fuel filter had been recently changed, among other small maintenance adjustments including new sparks and wires. In driving it down from the mountains following the vehicle transfer, the engine completely died at half tank. I then poured 2 spare gallons into the tank and it started up and finished the journey home. Prior to arriving home, I filled the tank completely and it only took 6 more gallons (19gal tank). So this doesn't seem to be an issue of a fuel gauge malfunction.
I'm perplexed. How is it that it can run fine at full tank, but upon reaching half it begins to sporadically shudder, as if not getting enough gas? If I continue to run the truck beyond half, it will stall or not start at all. Put a couple more gallons in, and it starts right up. When it's on half and won't start, it still fires with starting fluid. I suspect there's an air leak in some component in the tank.
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Last week during a hot/long day on the road, my engine temp gauge started fluctuating between 1/2 and almost 7/8 on the gauge. The weird thing was that it was fairly stable most of the time, but every 10 minutes or so, it would heat up, and spend bout 15 seconds at the high mark before dropping down again. It didn't seem to be related to rpm, A/C operation, or driving intensity. When I got home, and let it cool down, I checked the coolant level. I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator, but the expansion tank was nearly full. I guess the low coolant level can explain the symptoms above, but I can't figure out what is happening to the coolant.
I took the car to a mechanic and had a pressure test, which didn't show any leakage. I had a new thermostat and radiator cap installed. They flushed the system, and tested the hose between the expansion tank and radiator. After driving the car home, the coolant in the radiator had already dropped to the point where I couldn't see it, and the expansion tank was 3/4 full. Now, I am planning to keep track of the levels of both reservoirs (and refilling the radiator of course) to see if the fluid is leaking, or if it is just not returning from the expansion tank. Hopefully this bit of knowledge should locate the problem.
The successful pressure test leads me to believe that it isn't leaking externally. However, I'm wondering if there is a small enough leak that wouldn't be detected by the pressure test, but is significant enough that it would allow air in when the engine cools instead of pulling the fluid back from the expansion tank.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and I am still trying to figure out why the coolant will overflow in the radiator reserve tank. I put in a new thermostat and a new cap to the overflow tank. When the tank is cold, sat over night, I put in new anti-freeze to the cold coolant line. Then I start up the explorer and let it run for a while. The temp gauge goes up, then drops a tad and cold air comes out of the vents.
After I rev up the engine, I see the coolant level starts to rise in the overflow tank, then it goes to the top and starts to leak out. This takes a while being the thermostat has not kicked in to suck the fluid in. Before this happens, the heater core lines are luke warm. After the tank overflows, the remaining gets sucked into the engine and I get nice warm heat. What causes this. I had the test done to see if the head gasket is bad. The test was negative.
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2007, 4.0L, Explorer, 113,000 mi. Week ago noticed coolant expansion tank empty while hot and cold. Looked inside ex. tank and looked like it had not seen any action in a while. Looked inside radiator and coolant level was about 1 inch to 1.5 inches below bottom of rad. cap would be...approx. level with rad. seam, where black plastic top of rad. attaches to metal portion of rad. I filled expan. tank to "cold fill" line. Kept an eye on it while doing light, around town driving. The expan. tank level (cold-fill) didn't change.
Friday, my wife returned from work (30 mi., interstate drive). After being parked for 45 mins, went out to find fluid puddle at very front of car. Expansion tank was empty. Looked in radiator, and it was about one inch to inch and a half below bottom of rad cap...about level with rad seam, where the black plastic top is attached to metal. I topped off the rad. this time, along with filling expan. tank to cold-fill line. Turn car on, and after warming up coolant starting coming out from what appeared to be the seam at the top of the rad., where the black plastic portion meets the metal part of the rad.
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I have 2007 explorer 4.6 v8. The check engine light is on, and i can only fill the gas tank about 3/4 full, after moving the gas nozzle all around and taking about 15 minutes. I read a few different things while searching. Like vapor canister need to be replaced. or the vent hose needs to be replaced.
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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'98 Regal LS. The car was parked with the engine running, and the doors locked spontaneously. Starting then, noticed that the fuel gauge and coolant temp gauge were pegged out.
Short somewhere? Could a bad BCM cause this?
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Got a 98 explorer eddie bauer and the low beams went out. A search through the console revealed this explore doesn't have the lamp/light out module. So i guess a multifunction switch would be the next place to go? Fuses look good too btw.
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My 98 Limited started blowing hot air yesterday, even in Max AC. It even blows hot air out the defroster when the climate control is shut off. It started doing this 2 days ago, but I could still get sporadic cold air from Max AC, but now nothing. What could be the problem?
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Okay here is my issue : I have explorer 98 v6 4.0L 4wd .. I changed my transfer case with the shift motor because the old one was making noise and grind .. I put a good used and tested transfer case but once i started the car to test it I noticed its feels loke stuck in 4 low ..
I parked the car and switched it to 4wd Hi. The light of 4wd hi came ON in the dash. Then I put the shifter in Neutral and moved the switched to 4wd low but the light of 4wd hi stayed ON never seen the 4 low light in the dash. I'm so confused and disappointed now. Even with the old bad transfer case it was fine other than the noise the transfer case making.
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I just bought the truck and the previous owner said sometimes when the truck is parked in an angle, like in a drive way it will not start unless you use a screw driver and touch both posts on the solenoid. It happened to me today and I do not like it and need to find the cause? Why it would do this?
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