Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Getting No Fuel - Fuse Not Blowing?
Sep 24, 2012
my wifes explorer is getting no fuel. (there is a valve I depressed similaR to a tire valve, I pressed it once some fuel dribbled out, and thats it, turned the key several times and not a drop off fuel. I went as far as checking the fuse, the fuse is not blown. what are my next steps of trouble shooting.
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I've got a 03 explorer with a 4.0 and it seems the fuse keeps blowing out, I have to keep replacing the fuse every time for the gadgets on the instrument cluster. Could there be short somewhere?
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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My father is having electrical issues and I'm hoping this is the cause. Where this ground cable originates from?
He replaced the battery last week after vehicle would not start. Noticed he blew a radio fuse but nothing else until yesterday. Major issues of all instruments, ac, windows, etc going out. Unable to start vehicle without jump.Had a error code B1676. So today we switched the battery, all is good (for now) except for horn fuse that keeps blowing.
It's a 2007 ford explorer 2wd v6
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My 98 Limited started blowing hot air yesterday, even in Max AC. It even blows hot air out the defroster when the climate control is shut off. It started doing this 2 days ago, but I could still get sporadic cold air from Max AC, but now nothing. What could be the problem?
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ASD Fuse keeps blowing. I unplug PCM and fuse no longer blows. I plugged in pin 41-80 and the the fuse is still ok. Car just quit running and starter will not turn. Does pin 1-40 control starter and fuel?? Could I have a bad PCM??
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I have a 2000 F150 with @175K miles. Replaced the clutch about a year ago, replaced the front calipers a few weeks ago, due to the right front locking up on my way home from work. Since then, when I try to start, it blows the fuel pump fuse. (#10)...
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger king cab 4x4 with a three inch lift kit on it . My problem is the fuse is blowing that goes to the fuel pump . It started out blowing the fuse now and then when it was raining . Well I thought it mite be the fuel pump going bad but after I put the new pump in the truck it lasted about a week and started blowing fuses again . I put another fuse in and it go a few days and blow it . Last week on a 100 mile tripe I got almost there and it burned a fuse on the highway . I tried to put another fuse in and it would blow it as soon as I tried to start the truck . Burned five fuses right then . So I had it towed to mothers house and put another fuse in and it cranked up . I looked at the wiring that was not wrapped in that plastic cover stuff and have not found anything yet ...
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My 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
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The fuel pump fuse keeps blowing intermittently. I would assume it's a wire grounding out somewhere but I can't seem to find one yet. I do have a faulty purge solenoid on the canister but I don't think that would cause this. The reset switch doesn't seem to be tripped either.
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My R32's Fuel Pump Fuse keeps blowing. This started after driving my car in a bad rainstorm. I think water may have gotten in the door which could be causing the short, but I am not sure. This car has two fuel pumps as it's been modified. I know for a fact the main fuel pump works as it did prime after replacing the fuse (then letting the car sit over night then opening the door). Right after the fuel pump primed though, the fuse blew. I decided to replace the fuse and start the car. The car started and ran for maybe a second or two before the fuse blew. I took a look at this thread in regards to the fuel pump not working as I thought the fuel pump was dead till today. I was wondering what are the possible problems that could be causing the fuse to blow? Could it be the relay? Could it be the switch in the door shorting? Also, where would I find the relay? I know it's under the dash, but is it under the panel on the passenger side or driver side?
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Ok so I just bought this car, 1993 pontiac grand am se, from a neighbor. When I test drove it, the back seat was all unscrewed so I thought no biggie and it drove really nice for being a 1993. Ended up buying the car. I get the car home, husband puts seats back together and we go to leave for town and the fuel pump fuse blew. Put a new one in, go to start the car, fuse blows again! Tow the car home. Husband checks the wires to make sure there is no faulty wires. Has to reground the ground wire. Car then starts. Go to drive down my driveway and the dang fuse blew again! Mind you there is a new fuel pump in the car so we know this isn't what is wrong with it.
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When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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I have noticed when I turn the key on the needle moves down just a touch but goes back to full. I have disconnected the wiring harness for the fuel tank and reconnected it. I have tried tracing the harness back towards the front but no luck yet. I'm guessing it's a bad ground or something. And if so what was the solution.
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1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
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I'm in a situation where I may be having to tow my 3500# boat/trailer with my '04 Explorer 4WD (this is well within the max tow limit, per the manual). I have the 4.0L with the 5 spd auto tranny and 3.73ls gears. I've towed the boat a handful of times with this vehicle and had a good experience every time. Now I'm looking at this being my primary towing vehicle, towing once or twice a month in the summer. The car only has 48000 miles on the ticker and is in pristine condition, so mechanically it's sound.
I asked my mechanic what he thought of this arrangement and he hates the Explorers, so he's giving a biased response. Have any of you towed something on a somewhat regular basis with this, or a similar, vehicle? Any issues? My mechanic keeps going on about the transmission seal blowing when under a heavy load.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are the aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, these lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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Why the 30amp PCM fuse located in the under dash panel would blow. Problem started while truck was running and a simple replace of the fuse would it it back alive again. Now fuse is blowing at ignition on. Truck is 1997 F250 LD.
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I am having trouble with fuse 23 under the hood blowing while driving. I have read several threads on this issue but still no luck. I have removed all 4 02 sensors and ac relay and still about 1/4 mile down the road the fuse blows, and is giving the shift solenoid A shift solenoid B and the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit. I have checked both plugs on the trans, I even dropped the pan and ohmed the solenoids out. I dont know what else to do?
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Description: It will crank over forever but not start. New timing belt water pump, etc, so it is not timing. tried different fuel pump relay. no luck. new fuse no luck. The radio fuse also shorts and blows when I change it. Headlight does not come on, but the cabin "ding ding ding" sound plays. Marker, turning, reverse, and brake lights work.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT does not come on during key turn. I may know what caused it or it may not. Before all of this happened, my audio system fuse under the hood blow. It blew again after I installed a new fuse (immediately).
One day, the wires on a portable cigarette light pump snapped and the two wires had been touch. I noticed the truck stalled several times when letting off the gas and coming to a rolling stop. The fuel pump relay makes a click noise when I turn the key
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