Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Fuel Vapor Line Connection Broken At Tank?
Nov 2, 2012
1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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I have been debugging DTC codes 2237/2238 and what sounds like detonation in a failed catalytic converter in my old 2007 Prius (375,000 miles!), I just removed the wipers and cowl yesterday to look at the air/fuel ratio sensor connection, and my connector appears to be melted somewhat, sides of the connector show signs of melting I am guessing that there is a connection problem stemming from this and the root cause of my DTC codes.
Can the four wires each side be removed so I can get the connector out to look at it carefully?
Can the bad connector be removed and the four wires be simply spliced together to get the air/fuel sensor working again? I did note that the colors of the wires going in are NOT the same as the colors of the wires going out.
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So Iv a couple weeks ago I bought a 1998 f150 and today I was gonna do the fuel filter and saw the line goin to the engine was broken and they put a rubber hose in line. The hose is only about 6inchs and I work at ford so I got the price on the whole fuel line running up to the engine. I was just wondering if any repairs that work for metal fuel lines.
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My friend has a 98 ranger that has a lose connection on fuel relay under the hood, Hit a bad bump truck dies, Pop hood wiggle wire and your good till next bump. This got real old real quick. How this connection is made, Is it soldered?
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I have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...
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It appears the Engine By fuel line connectors are broken. I searched for DIY'ers on how to fix, but so far I only see those related to fixing other sections on the fuel line, not this upper section. It's on the passenger side. How to fix it?
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My '98 was running fine. It had 272 miles on the tank of gas (from full) when I parked it nose down in the driveway last night. Went to start it at 5:40 in the morning and it would crank fine but wouldn't start. I'm thinking all kinds of things could be wrong. Finally checked for fuel at the fuel rail and nothing. Woke up the wife to assist. Had her turn the key to "ON" and the fuel pump sounded dry.
Put in a couple gallons of gas I had for the lawn mower and it fired up. Gas gauge was about 1/4 on level ground before adding gas. I talked to everyone at work who has an Explorer and they all have had the same thing happen. I'm hoping the fuel pump didn't get damaged from running dry.
I've never had this happen with my Ranger. It happened once on my Aerostar, but it was extremely low on gas and I let it sit idling in the driveway for a long time to bleed the cooling system. Normally, I get gas at 1/4 tank.
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2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
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I have been replacing brake lines on our old rusty Cherokee when I discovered the evap line from fuel tank is partially missing, rusted away near the back. I have never noticed raw fuel smell, but what issues will this problem cause? I will replace the line if needed which apparently involves dropping the fuel tank.
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As of recently, my 2008 Prius fuel gauge shows only 1 flashing bar unless the fuel level is more than half-full.
I just got a quote from the dealer; they said it will cost me $ 900 + to replace the whole fuel tank, as fuel gauge is not a replaceable part. Yap, the whole gas tank needs to be replaced for fuel sender!
Well, I find this hard to believe, but i guess it is possible that they have built everything together as one big replaceable unit.
BTW, if this is true then Toyota is not making environmentally friendly vehicles, when we have to throw away perfectly good gas tank and other parts within in order to replace a moving part that is most likely to fail.
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It is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
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I am done with this swap (I hope) changed out the 302 in my 81 van for a 351. The only smog spaghetti I am keeping is the fuel vapor canister but I am unsure what the #1 line in the photo is for I have the manual but doesn't state what it does my research suggests its a fuel vapor return line from the carb bowl back to the canister ...... I now have an edlebrock carb obviously w/o this port so my question is
#1 where would you reconnect this "whatever it is" line on carb or manifold
#2 I am going to install that #3 fitting in photo on the edlebrock manifold at the same location & extend #2 hose to it. I am thinking that's ok...
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Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!
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my wifes explorer is getting no fuel. (there is a valve I depressed similaR to a tire valve, I pressed it once some fuel dribbled out, and thats it, turned the key several times and not a drop off fuel. I went as far as checking the fuse, the fuse is not blown. what are my next steps of trouble shooting.
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My Miata stalls out on the highway but not on residential streets. If I open the gas tank ,it starts up again. This has happened with a full tank, 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank. How can I fix this?
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During recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.
Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.
I have scanned the car and no codes.
Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.
Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.
Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.
Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.
I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.
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I have noticed when I turn the key on the needle moves down just a touch but goes back to full. I have disconnected the wiring harness for the fuel tank and reconnected it. I have tried tracing the harness back towards the front but no luck yet. I'm guessing it's a bad ground or something. And if so what was the solution.
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I have a 98 4 Runner the fuel light has come on, the fuel gauge itself is working fine. The low fuel indicator light stays on even on a full tank, would like to know if there is a reset button or is it attached to the fuel sending unit or is it a separate unit....
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I have a 2004 rx330 and it's recently been acting up. Sometimes the heat and air won't work, there is a noticeable difference in the way the car drives too.
I hit climate and it shows check air conditioner connection line and nothing works, it's making for very cold drives to and from work.
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