Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Engine Swap - Sensor Interchange?
Nov 25, 2011
What is the difference between the 2 wire & 3 wire cam sensors. I am installing a 98 4.0 in my nephews Explorer-engine build date of 12/98. The replacement engine build date of 5/98. There have been quite a few differences during this process and thought I had them worked out but the old engine had a 3 wire cam sensor and the replacement has a 2 wire. I have already changed the harness over due to other differences but my main question is will I have to swap the synchronizer or will the sensors interchange? The synchronizes look different as does the cam sensor.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer AWD with a 5.0 L V-8. My rear end is going out. Will a rear end out of a 1997 or 1998 Ford Explorer AWD be a correct interchange? How about out of a 2000 Explorer AWD? Does it matter if the rear end comes from a 6 cyl or 8 cyl Explorer? Forgot to mention that my Explorer has Air-Ride suspension. Does that make a difference? Where can I find my axle ratio to make sure the swap is going to be OK? What steps I need to take to make sure I am doing the swap correctly...
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There's a high pitched whine type noise coming from my Mass Airflow Sensor. I can get it to go away temporarily if I goose the gas pedal, but it comes back after a minute or two. Has not affected drive-ability, but it's pretty annoying. It sounds like the hot wire is probably vibrating. Is there any fix for it, or do I have to replace the sensor to get rid of it?? Have tried cleaning it, but that did not work.
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I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
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Engine idles erratically after it warms up. Strong sucking air sound from throttle body as engine idles from low to high. I have no codes on ODB II.
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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I have found a 97 explorer 4x4 with a v6 and auto trans priced really cheap. It has something called control track on it. Everything is in real good shape except the trans. It only works in reverse. Is there a common failure on these trans that might cause this ? from what Ive read this is a awd set up. that's is 4wd -all the time. If the trans is a major repair I would rather do away with the awd and convert to a simpler 2wd. Would such a swap be advisable ? I m wondering about wiring harnesses, sensors, cars computer, etc.
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1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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I just got a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder in my 1998 Ford Explorer. Driving it home from the mechanic, I'm hearing a sputtering sound coming from what seems to be the lower part of the engine compartment. It sounds like a VW Bug exhaust. I've never heard this sound before. It's troubling that it has appeared now immediately following a repair. I presume there is a outside possibility that it's not the mechanics doing, but that seems improbable. (The engine was revving high right before the clutch blew out last week, so maybe those brief high revs caused some damage? I can't imagine that being the case.) Or was there something in the clutch repair process that could have resulted in this?
I made a recording of the sound here.......
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I was just wondering is the climate control self contained so it can be directly swapped for manual HVAC controls? I have a XLT and would like to upgrade the HVAC and radio system if possible if they are direct swaps.
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i need to know what locations are these sensors at bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 what i`m asking is it at the front of the engine or the rear its a 2.7 liter engine.
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I decided to replace my interior light bulbs with LED's. I started by swapping out the overhead lights. There is one bulb for the dome light that lights up when the doors are open. That light works fine with the new LED bulb. But the two bulbs for the map lights won't work. When I was installing them my screwdriver touched somethings and made a spark. I figured I blew a fuse but all the fuses under the dash don't appear to be broken.
Why is it that the door ajar dome light works but the two map lights wont turn on? Are they not on the same fuse? Is there a fuse in the fuse box under the hood that I should check? I also noticed that my radio has no power. Fuses looked good. The wiring seems fine. The lights worked before I swapped the LED bulbs in. Tried putting the halogen bulbs back in and they still don't work.
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1998 Explorer 4x4 4L
The drive train freewheels when going down hill in 4x4 Low, and 1st gear. Shouldn't the engine be braking the vehicle when in 4x4 Low, and in 1st gear? It is free wheeling which is very hard on the brakes; I had to ride the brakes the whole 2 miles down (a lot 45 degree grade).
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I bought a 2002 F350 Dually Diesel 7.3L Lariat Crew Cab. I had the famous faulty VSM issue that plagued many a 2002 model. Got a new security module and everything worked just fine... Except for the doors. The door ajar light constantly stayed on. I do NOT want to pay my local stealership $140 to dig for my VSM and reprogram it since pretty much everything else worked plug and play.
Hoping it was the other infamous stuck door ajar sensor issue, I've been making my door lock hinges drunk on WD40 with no positive results. This saddened me. Today, though, I made a interesting observation.
The door ajar light goes OFF when both front doors are OPEN. Back doors have no effect one way or the other. I was thinking if I switch the polarity of the door ajar buttons by just crossing the wires associated, that should fix my problem.
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So I got a 98 GMC sierra and the ect sensor that is on it only had one wire running to it. Obviously the previous owner tried to make something work. I bought a new ect sensor and pigtail to rewire it but can't find the ground wire anywhere. Looking for a wiring diagram?
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My 03 Elantra GLS was throwing an error code that my reader said was the upstream O2 sensor (before the CC in the manifold) and the #3 plug. I swapped it out at the same time that I changed out the spark plug and spark plug wires and the thermostat housing.
The thermostat housing installation all looks good. There are no leaks/drips anywhere near it and all seems good.
The problem is that, after clearing the codes and taking the car for a test run, all seems good until I get it to the point where it is about to shift into 3rd or I've reached about 20-40 MPH. At this point, the engine sounds like it is gasping for air and ready to cut off. If I pull over for a moment, I am able to get going again until I reach those same conditions. I've even had the gas pedal floored and the car won't move during these times and the CEL is now back on saying that the brand new O2 sensor is the problem again (the codes for the #3 plug are no longer showing).
I did remove the battery cable to reset the codes in case my reader wasn't fully clearing them and verified that the fuses related to the ECM/ECU were all good.
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Can to take tires/wheels off a 1998 CamryLE (P19570R14) and swap them for 2004 Camry LE (P20565R15)? I am selling 1998 and 2004 needs new tires.
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1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
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I have an '86 Aerostar with a noisy rear end. I've had it checked by both my mechanic, and a transmission shop, and they both say it's the differential, not the wheel bearings. The quote to rebuild is expensive, so I'm looking for a replacement. My question is: What years will interchange with my 2.3, 5-speed '86 Aerostar?
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