Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Backfiring / Smells Like Sulfur
Aug 4, 2009
My ford just suddenly started backfiring and started smelling like this sulfer kind of smell and knew I needed a new exhaust so I got a new tailpipe and muffler and problem still persisted so then I replaced the driver side catalytic converter because I had noticed after driving it that it was smoking after driving it. So now I've replaced that and i still got the smell and it just rides rougher and the check engine light is blinking after driving a couple minutes....
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After a 70km trip stop in the road and outside the car smell like sulfur and its from the passenger side not in the engine bay not in the exhaust behind not a/c. why is this?
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I have had my car since it rolled out of the plant. Along with other issues one of the most bothersome is a strange smell when I accelerate above 60 mph and it gets worse between 70 and 80mph. Additionally, when I pull into my garage after having smelled this smell on the freeway, I can smell it on the outside of my car.
My car has been in and out of the Ford dealership every month for many issues but this particular issue each time I bring it in. It wasn't until my most recent visit that they told me that with new cars one can occasionally smell this when undertaking a hard acceleration. Then I was asked if I have visited websites or asked questions on the web about this smell. But until now I didn't know what the smell was.
I have been on websites that say this is normal for new cars but if the smell gets worse over time there is a problem with the carburetor. I need to know exactly what to tell the Ford dealership when I go in again have them fix this problem. I also would like to know if this smell I smell is harmful to my children and I. And is it leaking the smell all the time but it is just over a certain MPH that I can smell it.
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I have a vehicle that came in on the hook its an 01 exploder4.0 sohc no start.. when cranking it will back fire through intake. no dtc's however its also showing all monitors not set?? dead battery erasing keep alive memory I don't know. Here's what i do know apparently it had gotten partial tune up all left side plugs and wires changed. All right side plugs and number 3 wire factory. I have plenty of fuel pressure. It appears that all cylinders have 150 psi for compression.
I changed all plugs and spark tester is showing there is spark at the plug, (yes at all) just cranks and cranks and then back fires. I also have removed front ho2s to rule out blocked cats, wires are not crossed. I have an rpm signal which should have been evident when I had spark and injector pulse. have not changed the wires nor the coil which is a 6 pack coil. (Boss refuses to get them for me since i have spark )even though I told him there was some arcing.
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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Got a 98 explorer eddie bauer and the low beams went out. A search through the console revealed this explore doesn't have the lamp/light out module. So i guess a multifunction switch would be the next place to go? Fuses look good too btw.
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My 98 Limited started blowing hot air yesterday, even in Max AC. It even blows hot air out the defroster when the climate control is shut off. It started doing this 2 days ago, but I could still get sporadic cold air from Max AC, but now nothing. What could be the problem?
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Okay here is my issue : I have explorer 98 v6 4.0L 4wd .. I changed my transfer case with the shift motor because the old one was making noise and grind .. I put a good used and tested transfer case but once i started the car to test it I noticed its feels loke stuck in 4 low ..
I parked the car and switched it to 4wd Hi. The light of 4wd hi came ON in the dash. Then I put the shifter in Neutral and moved the switched to 4wd low but the light of 4wd hi stayed ON never seen the 4 low light in the dash. I'm so confused and disappointed now. Even with the old bad transfer case it was fine other than the noise the transfer case making.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 with 200K miles. I plugged an OBII scanner with live data readings and my o2 sensors never relayed any information (voltage), they all ead -100% and the voltage never changed. Could all four be bad? I left the truck running for 15 minutes with the scanner attached and nothing changed.
BANK 1 SENSOR 1 = -100%
BANK 1 SENSOR 2 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 1 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 2 = - 100%
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I was told by the dealership that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced ( which I did) I went out to my car this morning and had the same problem. When I turn the key nothing happens. When I turn the key you hear a click but that is it.
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Got a call from my little sister about two weeks ago that her Ford Explorer would not drive forward. Checked it out and put it into second to get it home.Last weekend me and my dad changed the filter and fluid and then drove it for a bit. It sounded a little better but still would go into drive or reverse. We shifted into second which we knew worked and then back into reverse immediately and now reverse worked, although sluggish. The same was true for drive. A few days later dad changed a solenoid and now it will go into drive and go up to 15mph, but will not shift from first to overdrive first. And still no reverse right away. She is able to get to school with second gear and pop into drive when she gets up to 40-45mph. If she has to backup from start, first she has to put it into second and then back to reverse. Something in overdrive doesn't seem to be doing its job right.
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My 98 explorer is hiccuping when i am stopped for more than a few seconds and when I press the gas to get going it stutters. It only does this if I am stopped at a light or stop sign for a few minutes. Once I get going again it runs fine. The check engine light is not on and I have replaced the o2 sensors and spark plugs. I am at a loss on what to do next.
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I'm thinking about buying a 98 Explorer that has an ABS light on. I haven't looked at it yet. In the ad, the seller claims it's due to worn brake pads in the rear. If that's true, then it's not a big deal. Can the ABS light be set by worn pads? Most of my cars are too old to detect this, but even if they did, I wouldn't know because I never let my pads get that low.
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Have 1998 Explorer with 5R55E tranny and the automatic transmission extension housing seal keeps coming off, allowing a fluid leak. I just replaced it and it's doing it again. When I put it in there, it seemed tight, but... How to keep this thing in there?
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My explorer 98 seat lumbar does not work. When i push the switch i only hear a motor noise and nothing happens. How to fix that?
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my wifes explorer is getting no fuel. (there is a valve I depressed similaR to a tire valve, I pressed it once some fuel dribbled out, and thats it, turned the key several times and not a drop off fuel. I went as far as checking the fuse, the fuse is not blown. what are my next steps of trouble shooting.
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Has happened twice now but last night I had to disconnect the battery. A few years ago the driver's door switch was replaced for the same reason. I would do it again but I can't find anything that looks like a switch. Where that thing is? It is a '98 Explorer XLT.
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My '98 4.0L Explorer Sport will begin to overheat if I'm in stopped traffic for more than 5 mins. on a hot day with the A/C on. I can correct it by turning off the A/C. Would a different thermostat work? If so, what temperature do I need?
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1998 explore will not start when hot will turn over sputter and die, after 15 minutes it will start right up that was last monday when it was 80 outside it now colder outside has not done it again, the only thing i have seen that temp gauge is not going past cold never getting to center it will try and drop back down...
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Ok when I turn on my explorer the rectangular portion of the headlights light up but are fairly dim. When I I turn the switch from the off position to the first position, the front and rear parking lights come on, but when I turn the switch to the final position, ie the headlights on, nothing happens. My high beams still work in both the flash position and the on position, and the bulbs and fuses are good. I'm at a loss of what to do.
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
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