Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - ABS Light In - Worn Pads?
Nov 9, 2013
I'm thinking about buying a 98 Explorer that has an ABS light on. I haven't looked at it yet. In the ad, the seller claims it's due to worn brake pads in the rear. If that's true, then it's not a big deal. Can the ABS light be set by worn pads? Most of my cars are too old to detect this, but even if they did, I wouldn't know because I never let my pads get that low.
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So my brake pads worn light came on recently on my 03 jetta...low and behold all 4 brake pads needed changing...funny though because upon buying pads with the sensor when I went to put new pads on the old ones didnt even have a sensor it was already cut at the harness and spliced together to keep the light off....so upon inspection one of the wires was black and the other copper....idk if one was supposed to be black or if its because its fried? Anyways i went as far up the wires as I could till they are harnessed in with the abs sensor wires...still one wire black....spliced together crimped and still the light comes and goes....I dont have access to the vcds or vagcom so can't turn it off that way..
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I have about 50,000 miles on my pads, they look 50% gone, but couple days ago I've got short "beep" and light yellow came on(circle with several small parts of larger circle). What and why? Rotors, pads, other?
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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Just had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
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The brake pads worn symbol has lit up in the instrument cluster on my wife's 2008 Touareg V8. The car has 33K. Per Tom Bush VW in Jacksonville, both pads and rotors must be replaced. This is without even looking at it.
Per Osteen VW also in JAX, I might not have to replace the rotors. They stated that what they have seen is that usually the rotors don't get replaced until the second visit to replace pads.
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I have a 1993 Regal Custom. The friction pads on the transverse spring had worn off. I replaced with the aftermarket isolator pads. These work well. The problem I am having is that after a few months they tend to shoot out. You will hear a large bang and then see the pad shoot out in the rear view mirror. This seems to happen when their is a load in the rear of the car. What can be done to prevent this.
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This started recently and suddenly during our recent snow. It sounds like the pads have worn down. Only happens at very low speed, not immediately at the point where the disc brakes cut in (>7mph?). Apart from the sound, the braking action feels normal and it stops fine.
The pads were only replaced a few months ago. Done 106,000 miles now, and no more than 2,000 since pads replaced.
I had thought it might be some grit caught between disc and pads but it would have cleared by now and there are now obvious signs on the disc of anything.
What would I be best to remove the wheels and take a closer look. Also, is there a wear sensor on the pads?
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My rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out
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My girlfriend just bought a 98 XLT AWD 4.0. does have a few problems.
First, the brake light is on (on the dash). all the lines are good, but the front pads need to be changed. if i take off hard, the brake light goes out for a bit.
Second, had a CEL. P0743, torque converter clutch circuit blah blah. also, the o/d light flashes constantly.
The trans shifts fine, even under WOT. also goes into o/d with no problems, and the button works.
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I have an 02 explorer xlt with tan interior. The tops of the door panels are kinda worn dried and faded. Any good quality paint/ dye I can get to repaint these and what the actual color is?
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Has happened twice now but last night I had to disconnect the battery. A few years ago the driver's door switch was replaced for the same reason. I would do it again but I can't find anything that looks like a switch. Where that thing is? It is a '98 Explorer XLT.
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Ok when I turn on my explorer the rectangular portion of the headlights light up but are fairly dim. When I I turn the switch from the off position to the first position, the front and rear parking lights come on, but when I turn the switch to the final position, ie the headlights on, nothing happens. My high beams still work in both the flash position and the on position, and the bulbs and fuses are good. I'm at a loss of what to do.
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We bought it and the dude that owned it cut the radio wires and messed with the wiring everywhere because he thought he had a short. I've hooked up the radio and everything and it does the same thing. How do I bypass to make it stay running.
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Brakes in my 06 explorer are squishy, the pads are all good, what else i should check?
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Got a 98 explorer eddie bauer and the low beams went out. A search through the console revealed this explore doesn't have the lamp/light out module. So i guess a multifunction switch would be the next place to go? Fuses look good too btw.
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My 98 Limited started blowing hot air yesterday, even in Max AC. It even blows hot air out the defroster when the climate control is shut off. It started doing this 2 days ago, but I could still get sporadic cold air from Max AC, but now nothing. What could be the problem?
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Okay here is my issue : I have explorer 98 v6 4.0L 4wd .. I changed my transfer case with the shift motor because the old one was making noise and grind .. I put a good used and tested transfer case but once i started the car to test it I noticed its feels loke stuck in 4 low ..
I parked the car and switched it to 4wd Hi. The light of 4wd hi came ON in the dash. Then I put the shifter in Neutral and moved the switched to 4wd low but the light of 4wd hi stayed ON never seen the 4 low light in the dash. I'm so confused and disappointed now. Even with the old bad transfer case it was fine other than the noise the transfer case making.
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ESP light came on the day before car went in for service. It appears that the ESP warning has come on because of worn front tyres - will know for certain tomorrow when new tyres fitted. Light was coming on when cornering..
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 with 200K miles. I plugged an OBII scanner with live data readings and my o2 sensors never relayed any information (voltage), they all ead -100% and the voltage never changed. Could all four be bad? I left the truck running for 15 minutes with the scanner attached and nothing changed.
BANK 1 SENSOR 1 = -100%
BANK 1 SENSOR 2 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 1 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 2 = - 100%
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I replace the frond brake pads. Press the piston caliper using a c- clamp. When my brake job is done, start the engine, pump the brake now the yellow light come on.
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