Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Broke Apart While Driving?
Jan 8, 2013
The serpentine belt on My '97 Ford Explorer broke apart while driving. I pulled over immediately and got to work on fixing it. I noticed the Idler was bent so I bought a new belt and idler. The Idler wheel was busted but it didn't mess up the bolt so that was an easy fix. I noticed after putting in the new belt that the tensioner wouldn't hold the tension so I bought a new one to replace it. I installed the new tensioner, even though it fit slightly differently than the old one. I was assured after going back to the auto parts store, that it was correct.
The car turns on now and sounds fine, but I can barely turn the wheel. What to do? Could the generator wheel, crankshaft pulley, or something else that has the serpentine belt attached to it need to be replaced as well? What should I do next?
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Oh and also the OD light would come on also. I just need my truck.
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My '99 Explorer XL has the standard bucket seats. After having two owners (first one '99-09, then me '09-present) climbing in and out over 11 years and 95,000 miles, the driver's seat has broken down on the left side near the reclining lever. Every time I go around a right turn, I feel like Im going to tip over against the driver's door. Is there a replacement cushion for these Explorers?
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2004 sport track 4wd. never had issues..no oil burn, leaks, af use..nothing. was a great truck. going to work.heard a thump and truck shut down.
oil was high on dip stick..no AF left..it all went into motor on top. seized up engine and crank broke into pieces...done..
got a new engine put in this week.
Has this been an issue with these engines..or did I just have some bad mojo?
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I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
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I went to unscrew the radiator drain plug but the head broke right off leaving the rest of it inside.
I drilled out a little bit of it so I could drain the coolant and bough a replacement plug but there are still pieces stuck inside and I cant get them out.
Should I just drill out the remaining pieces or is there a better way to get them out?
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My rear-end differential came apart and is not repairable. I have a 1997 F150, 2WD, 4.6L engine, 5 lug wheels. Which years have the same rear ends so I can scour the junk yards for a replacement?
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I have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
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Checked icm and is good, replaced coil and still no spark. Issues be gan when about 700 miles ago rotor button broke while driving??? Replaced button cap wires and plugs. Engine fired right up. Ran 700 miles and rotor button broke for 2nd time. This time replaced and will turn over but not crank. That's when I checked icm and changed coil. what should i check now?? 1993 Ranger 3.0 ... Truck has 199,800 miles. Top end was redone at 140,000.
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I have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
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My truck broke down on the freeway last night. I heard a cracking noise (metal breaking) and it sounded like a backfire. The engine was running fine, good RPM's. I rev it up and the noise got worse, It sounds like a bad lawn mower or go cart. I was also smelling raw fuel.
Could I have broken a exhaust flange or the manifold? It sounds like the exhaust is bad and not burning the fuel.
There were no codes or a check engine light. I only went 1/2 mile after it broke down. I had to tow it to a local shop.
It's a 2003 4.6 with 205,000 miles.
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I have a 1997 F250 Light Duty with a 5.4L and 4 wheel drive, 216,000 miles. Last year one of my front tire chains broke and ripped the ABS wire. I have soldered them back together and no longer have the ABS light illuminated in the dash. However, when I apply the brakes at speeds slower than 25 mph, the ABS pulses. Over 25 mph the brakes work as they should until almost stopped and then they pulse.
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1998 Mazda B2500. Timing belt broke while driving. How likely is it that my valves are warped & how do I fix it?
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3 weeks after having my brakes replaced. At 60 mph yesterday.
The garage has the car now and is saying it was a freak accident and not something they caused. I call foul to that. It's a 2007 Subaru Outback.
What should I say to them to make sure this gets repaired properly? And what unseen damage should I be looking out for? The wheel run has a groove from where the bolt rubbed. That's all I could see. And I could lift up and wiggle the caliper.
It was only the pad replaced on the front brakes. It was pads and rotors on the back.
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After replacing a faulty spark plug wire on my '97 explorer, I started the engine (4.0 liter pushrod) and noticed the idle much lower than it was previously- to the point it now borders on stalling. The wire I replaced was on the right side (if facing engine from front) closest to the firewall. I thought I may have worked a vacuum hose loose when feeding the wire under the intake, but I checked and checked and saw nothing amiss. What I may've did (if anything) to cause this problem?
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My 'new to me' '97 Explorer has this odd 'rumble' every now and then, as if I just ran over some rumble strips. Very brief, maybe a second or less, as if I hit 5 or 6 of those bumps. It is a V8, XLT all wheel drive and I'm not familiar with it. Is this something I need to get looked at soon or is it just one of those things with the AWD. I only driven it a few times so I don't see a pattern and all else is great. Its a tight truck with less than 100K miles and I really enjoy it.
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Have a 97 Explorer 4x4. lately when I start the truck it has shifted itself into 4x4 low. I had disconnected the battery for a few minutes, re-connected and the truck was back in auto. This no longer works and it is stuck in 4x4 low. Mechanic wants to replace transfer case encoder, but says more diag needed after to replacing encoder motor to determine internal failure and may need more work. Can I simply have the 4x4 low disengaged manually?
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Just got this vehicle a week ago. Test drove before I bought but that drive was fine. Then after driving I started have a popping. Started paying attention at this point and noting what happens when.
It seems I don't have any problem at all until she gets warmed up. I can drive about 20 miles with no problem. Then the OD is Off light starts flashing. Then when I decelerate to stop, I have a big popping at exactly 20 mph. I then have 2 smaller pops once I take off from my stop.
I started searching online everywhere to determine the cause. I am a female whose daddy taught them just enough not to be completely stupid, but not near enough to be able to fix my own car problems. I thought from what I've read that this issue might be a torque converter. I do have a hum after a while that sounds like road noise....like I saw one other person post about bad TC's. But I haven't seen any posts that address the popping.
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I just bought a 97 explorer and the abs light is on is there a way to pull the codes without an abs scanner?
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I'm having a problem with my wife's '08 Explorer, 4.6L, 4x4. Recently she started getting a weird vibration while driving. I took it out and noticed the following: The vibration sounds and feels like you are driving over rumble-strips. It doesn't increase or decrease with speed. You can't feel it in the steering or brakes. It goes for 2 seconds, stops , 2 seconds, and stops.
This will happen every 7-10 minutes while driving. It doesn't matter if it's under load, or just coasting. I did notice while it is happening that the tach jumps up about 200 rpm for a second and then back to normal. I've searched and found it could be a possible torque converter issue, or even a bad coil. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2006 Explorer V8 4x4 when driving at any speed it will start jerking or surging. The rpms do not increase nor decrease so I don't think tranny problems. When cruise control is set it still acts up. It is not setting a check engine light or code, so when I took it to the dealer they couldn't find anything. We drove it with technician and of course it did not happen. This problem is irritating at best and I'm not to sure its safe for the wife and kids to be in. I'm thinking it maybe a fuel system issue i.e.~ fuel pump, filter, injectors etc. but I'm not sure. Also, I was told to run the vin on ford.com and check for recalls or if the computer needed an update. No recalls, but nothing was said or showing if update was needed.
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