I have a 1997 explorer xlt 2 wheel drive 4 door. It's got 189,000 miles on it. It's shakes a lot on idle when put in drive. I've replaced a lot of stuff. I've also lost a lot of power. I can put the gas pedal to the floor and still not get enough power. The shaking feels like it's about the stall out but it doesn't. Oh and there a rear main leak if that works.
View 2 RepliesTruck seems to have a rough idle not bad I had kid in back seat and ran into store came out and he asked why my truck was shaking. Plugs been changed dunno anything else I could do.
View 8 RepliesI got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
View 4 RepliesAfter replacing a faulty spark plug wire on my '97 explorer, I started the engine (4.0 liter pushrod) and noticed the idle much lower than it was previously- to the point it now borders on stalling. The wire I replaced was on the right side (if facing engine from front) closest to the firewall. I thought I may have worked a vacuum hose loose when feeding the wire under the intake, but I checked and checked and saw nothing amiss. What I may've did (if anything) to cause this problem?
View 7 RepliesI bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
I have a 97 ford taurus that when it is at idle (either in driver or park) it over heats. But if you give it some gas and the rpms get up to over 2300 the temp starts dropping immidiatly down to where it should be. Also the heater in the car stopped working not sure if the problems are connected.
View 10 RepliesI have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
View 2 RepliesI just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
View 1 RepliesI have recently changed all 4 rotors and brake pads, i blead the brake line, replaced tires about 4 months ago and replaced lower front ball joints. The problem is that the whole explorer shakes including steering whee when you brake between 55-40 MPH. I thought by doing a complete brake job, it would solve my problem. I'm running miserable not knowing what the problem is.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
View 14 RepliesShakes when in drive but stopped at a red light but if I put it in neutral, it stops shaking. 2002 Ford Escort
View 5 RepliesOk so here's the deal recently decided to get my explorer back on the road after sitting for some time. So needed a new alternator replaced took it for a drive was really rough but again it just sat so i kept driving it and it got better but did need some parts and love so here's what I did to it thus far then I will explain what the issue is. I have replaced the alternator, oil change, trans case fluid change, new plugs and wires, new wheel bearing, new rotor, new brakes all around, new caliper. So here's the issue. During take off it vibrates/shakes mostly between 30-40 mph but when you get to about 60 it drives good but when you take your foot off the gas its like a whine or a growl that comes from what sounds like the middle of the truck. I am not exactly sure on what it is. I checked the u joints no slop or anything maybe a little stiff. Tomorrow im checking the front and rear diff and rotating the tires to see if that gets rid of the vibration but what about the whine or growl. Realized I didn't put what type of explorer it is. 2002 explorer xls 4.0 sohc 4x4.
View 2 RepliesThe Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow
I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.
I have a 97 GTP. When I am at idle, I get a very loud rattling noise coming from the drive belt area of the engine. The noise goes away when you rev the engine up, but returns immediately when idling. I removed the supercharger belt assembly, and then noise still occurs. This just started tonight out of the blue, and It is extremely loud.
View 14 RepliesMy truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
View 9 Replies248k miles on it, was taken from a body shop and put on side of road, I know who took it but can't prove it. He is known for messing with ppl vehicles. . Started up just fine when found, but you can hold foot completely down on gas and it's like it is losing pressure (?) , it rumbles and shakes when running and you can watch the RPMS fall while holding gas pedal down (in park) until it just dies. It has an "egg" smell and one side will get hot while the other stays cold. It was something intentionally done to my vehicle. .already checked Cadillac converter and cleaned/removed muffler. I'm not sure where to start looking now, I'm a single mother without the money to take it to a repair shop. We could drive it onto the trailer to get it to a friend house, but barely made it up it without dying...
View 9 RepliesJust changed my oil on my X since I just bought it. I put 6 qts in it but now it shakes at idle which it wasn't doing before. It seems like the oil may be a little high but I want to make sure before I drain any out. Also while I was under there I found that the drivers ball joints were replaced but not passenger side. I also found that I have 4.30 gears according to the tag so that's good. I also found that I'm missing a boot or something on rear driveshaft so not sure if something is dry and contributing to my highway shake separate from my idling and acceleration shake. I just put a matching set of dura grapplers on there which worked a lot as the 4 tires on there were all different and worn differently too. Also it seems someone replaced all but 2 cops
View 14 RepliesMy 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 2011 ES350 today with 38k miles. I didn't notice it at the time of purchase, but the moment I put it into drive with my foot on the brake (idling), the passenger seat does a little dance. It's not terrible, and doesn't shake much while driving, but I would much rather it not be there because it's taking away from the experience of driving this beautiful luxury car.
On a different note, I had a 1999 ES300 that I recently gave to my 85yr old grandpa. The car now has 115k miles on it...it does not shake, and it drives like a dream.
My 2000 Eclipse has a really bad shaking problem when put into reverse or drive. Also, it bogs down really bad when accelerating when first put into gear. It is the gs model. And I've searched everywhere online for an answer. It shifts fine. The idle drops down to around 500 when put into gear.. Whats the problem..
View 19 RepliesI have a 1997 F-150 4.6 Liter 2WD ATIt rides and brakes smoothly when not running the A/C. When I switch on the A/C it still rides and runs smoothly and still brakes smoothly at first. After a few minutes, when I brake, the front end shakes slightly. While not braking it's still fine.The problem doesn't go away immediately when I switch of the A/C, but does eventually. However, on rare occasion the front end will start shaking like I have a square tire, even when not braking. This never occurs when I'm not running the A/C. Pads and rotors seem fine, tires are good, on visual inspection. A/C blows cold and the clutch seems to engage/disengage properly.
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