Ford - Explorer :: 1997 V6 - Whole Rear Suspension (Shocks) Completely Destroyed
Dec 21, 2016
I Just bought a 1997 Ford Explorer V6 4WD and I noticed after the I bought the truck that the whole rear suspension (Shocks) were completely destroyed. I failed to notice this during inspection of the car because it was parked very close to a wall so i was unable to see the area. Now I do know a bit a about cars but I no professional, It seems as if this whole section of the car just rotted out which is surprising because the rest of the car seemed OK. So now my question what do I need to buy in order to fix this I am not sure it seems like there is some sort of cross member that bolts onto the frame that connects the two rear shocks. What it looks like?
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I made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
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What is the degree of difficulty in replacing the rear shocks on a 2WD 2002 F150?
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So I had the same , "noise" in the rear of my truck that i see other people having, at first I thought it was my tires, since I ran buckshots, so I switched over to street tires, and low and behold it sounded like I had buckshots still on the truck. So this thursday I pulled the diff cover off, and guess what i found!
The abs ring on the ring gear, was completely off , and the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears was broken with just about maybe 3/8 to 5/16 of an inch left in the pin, right now i am still working on how to get that out of there.
also found a 1999 ford f150 2wd truck, 4.6 auto , that someone pulled a 1997 4.6 engine out of and put it in this truck and now it won't charge, and i think it's cause of the pcm needing to be reflashed. tested the alt, battery, everything is good, i just don't know if the pcm controls the charging system.
Pics will come soon of the differential destruction.
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I bought an 02 Explorer Sport 2wd back in December of '12. The vehicle actually runs pretty well. The thing I first noticed was the rear suspension seems to slam when going over bumps of almost any size or at any speed. Like if there's a sub-level manhole or something that just the passenger rear tire goes over it makes this terrible slam and sometimes shimmies (Spell check) to the sides like Inam losing control. I thought I would go ahead and change the shocks, did not make one bit of difference. I have looked up diagrams on the rear sus and everything seems to be there. Here's a picture just to kind of show what I have going on.
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I have dual fabtech shocks in the front with 10" lift. I want to switch to all icon shocks. I think just the monotube, or are the remote reservoir going to ride a lot better? Would I be better off going back to single shocks in the front or keeping duals?
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1998 4X4. My rear suspension is so loud and noisy it's driving me crazy. I've soaked the thing many times with wd40 but it doesnt seem to work or work not more than a day or two.
I've tried to make a pic with my phone because I think at the rear side of the leafs they are separating way too much... I've got no more than about 150lbs and a LPG-tank on my bed...
Moreover I think my truck rides bad. I know it's no Cadillac and I'm running 33s and its a 4x4 BUT I've got quite new Rancho shocks and the whole front suspension is in good shape and it got an alignment a month ago...
So what do you think, after 181.000mls time to get new rear leafs or take the old ones apart, free them from the rust, paint & grease them and put them back together?
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Driving over some speed bumps today I noticed alot of squeaking coming from the front of my car. I am guessing it's the shocks. Is this a sign that my shocks are going out, or are they just normally squeaky?
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Today when I went to start the car I noticed front suspension (Shocks) were low but when I started the car it went up by itself. Then I got the warning message while I was driving the car. I am posting 2 pictures that were displayed in the console. After that every time I switch off the car, the front suspension (shocks) goes down by itself and goes up when I start up the car. I am not sure about this behavior. Could this be the famous Air shocks failure or just simple fix.
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Last weekend I did a rear brake job on my 1997 F350 4wd diesel. I replaced the shoes, replaced all the hardware, replaced the cylinders and had the drums turned. I have driven the truck all week and everything has been fine. Tonight while out of town I set the parking brake to see if it was any better since the rebuild, and it was. Shortly after releasing the parking brake I drove about an hour to get home. When I arrived home by driver side rear brake, wheel, etc. was very hot. I threw water on it and it turned to steam instantly.
I suspect that setting my parking braked hard like I did (like you're suppose to) somehow caused it to drag. What is causing this and what needs to be done so that it doesn't happen again?
After reading some other posts I went out and checked my parking brake cable and found that it is not bound up that I can tell. Perhaps it did not completely release although it seems to release just like the other side. I checked it from front to equalizing bar and it is in great shape. The plastic coating is still on the wire and there isn't any corrosion the entire length. The only thing I did differently on this trip vs the one I made two days ago was try out the parking brake before I left. The last trip I could barely feel any heat on the rear wheels when I got home, this time the driver side was scorching hot.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS and from the day I got it, I've felt like the suspension/shocks are just terrible when it comes to speed bumps. In my apartment complex I have to slow to 5 MPH whereas in a friend's Focus, Accord, and 200C I can ride over them at 20MPH no problem. The speed bumps are pretty small and nothing special. The car seems fine with potholes that sink into the ground but poor with bumps that rise out of the ground. Is it just me? Do the stock Hankook tires have anything to do with it?
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I can't get the upper rear bolt out the fuel lines are in the way and I have tried wiggling the arm in every direction possible. any tricks?
97 V8 AWD.
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I need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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I've got a 1997 Ford Expedition 5.4 with 200,000. So my rear differential leaks a few drops of fluid every time I drive it, looks like it's coming from the pinion seal. I've just been filling it topping it off with fluid.
Anyway, yesterday I got in it and started driving, I noticed a howling noise, and when I turned my rear tires started locking up. It was like that for about 5 miles until I got home, no matter which way you turned the tires would lock up.
I went under and topped off the differential with fluid again, and I pushed my parking brake in and released it. Got back in the truck and drove, and it was fine. What happened? I'm just worried it will happen again if I don't look more into it.
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Got an 06 with factory air shocks. All of the air shocks need to be replace. Possible to just put in factory shocks or struts?
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I recently traded in my old 95 ES 300 for a 2013 ES 300H. I prefer the ride quality of the older model. I realize that many people prefer the new ride quality, but I don't. I have Michelin tires, and I have reduced the pressure to about 29 PSI, which worked, but I'd like to soften the ride more. Is it possible to adjust the suspension or shocks to make the ride softer?
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I have a 1997 ford explorer, the passenger side rear window only works in one direction, I have tested motor and it does work in both directions reversing the polarity, checked switch by checking voltage on each prong of plug (where motor plugs into harness), and does get 12 volts on each line as switch is being activated,I think there may be a ground problem on the one side that does not work, where to start looking??
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My Explorer is a 1997 with the control trac 4x4 system. It's only purpose in life at the moment is to plow snow and its been doing that quite well. I typically leave it in 4lo all the time. Every once in a while, I will switch it to the other modes to ensure they are all working.
Today I was plowing and it looks like I'm getting nothing, or next to nothing to the front wheels. There is some shudder if the rear tires begin to spin, but the front never spin, or lock up. I can feel/hear the transfer case shift when I change modes between auto/4hi/4lo as I usually do, but the front wheels just are not doing their job. All three modes are not driving the front wheels.
The transmission was rebuilt a few years ago, and it's shifting fine. I'm suspecting the transfer case. Only my OD light is flashing, but it only does that once in a blue moon. I plugged my code reader in and it could not read those codes. I was able to clear the light though.
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I got a 97 aerostar from my parents. Front Shocks are done for (seals leaking). Any good brands? Does one just unbolt and replace shocks or do they have the mcpherson strut assemblies. It only has 48,000 miles on it. No rust and pretty good condition overall.
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