Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Trans Won't Engage While In Drive - Reverse Lost?
Dec 29, 2012
I got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
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This transmission shifted smooth and strong through all gears until today when it stopped all of a sudden to engage either Drive or Reverse. No previous signs of slippage, hesitation, stalling or lack of power whatsoever.
We checked the linkage to the transmission and it works as intended, nothing loose or broken, everything is in place. If there was something slightly different with it from other similar vans we have then it had a slightly delayed engagement in Drive (it took a second to engage it after you moved the lever) - on all other vans we have the transmission go into Drive almost instantly.
Van is a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport/Chevrolet Lumina APV with the 3.1L V6 Chevy TBI engine with the 3T40 automatic transaxle. Where we should start tackling this issue?
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Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
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I just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
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So my Push Button 4 wheel drive wont engage. The light on the dash wont light up and it doesn't shift into 4x4. Where to start? I would like to check the simple stuff first. O and my heat only gets hot when im giving the vehicle gas. This is all on a 2003 Ford Explorer.
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I have a Ford Explorer that my mechanic says needs a new trany. The vehicle takes a while to engage in reverse and does so with a loud clunk. Otherwise it runs good. I have 198K mi. It's an "02 4wd. Their asking $2,100 for the rebuilt trans. Wondering if it's worth it? May have reached the end of the line on this vehicle?
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
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I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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I was driving my santa fe at 80 k's per hour when the revs started to climb towards 3500 thousand revs. I pulled of the road and stopped, I had noticed the engine light stuck on. then i lost drive and reverse, let it idle for 4 min and they come back. What's gone wrong with the car?
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He has a 2002 Explorer 4.6. The truck is having a hard time going into reverse intermittently, hard shift in normal driving and thinks it has slipped in first gear going up his driveway that is steep. He is worried that he put slightly over sized tires and this may hurt his tranny. The overdrive has blinked twice with in the year. Possible problems that could create this he is thinking solenoid pack, servos, torque converter. The truck has 110k and never done fluids, Would lucas slip fix or hurt we have heard that these tranny's are finicy.
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I have 2001 ford explorer sport.. it idles very low in drive and reverse and then shuts off.. What has been replaced:
1. Torque converter
2. All new plugs n wires
3. Map or mass sensor
4. Iac valve
5. O2 sensors
6. Fuel filter
7. Air filter
8. Throttle valve/sensor
It does not run bad only when u come to a red or stop light.. Had the vacuum tested and no vacuum leaks.. also no check engine light has come on and no codes have popped up when tested..
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I have a 1998 F-150 and when shifting into 4 wheel drive (manual floor mount shifter) the drive shaft from the transfer case turns but the wheels do not engage.
Looking for a diagram of how the axle works?
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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This morning, while looking into why the front drive wouldn't engage, and moving the plastic cover over the battery out of the way to check for any vacuum issues, the positive battery post cable to the battery post moved. There was some fluctuation engine-wise. After I shut it off and tightened down the cable, re-started the truck, and continued looking for vacuum leaks, a few minutes later the truck died.
What's been done thus far, re-checked battery connections, checked in-line mini fuse-20amp, checked both mega fuses-power both sides of each, checked 10 amp #4 in cab fuse block, removed alternator and took for check-checked ok. Would there be something else that would trip if there was an abrupt dis-connect from the battery with the truck running?
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The car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
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I have a 2004 Ford Explorer V8 4 wheel drive. Yesterday I was on the way home from a 2 hour drive and was on the expressway at a complete stop on a downhill grade. When I hit the gas, the car started lurching - it would shoot forward, then slow down, then shoot forward, then slow down.
I got the car to the side of the road and called a tow truck. Just to test - while I was waiting for the truck I put the car in neutral and even though I was on a steep downhill grade, it wouldn't roll at all. When I put it in drive - it wouldn't go initially until I had to put a decent amount of pressure on the gas pedal. I reminded me a being at a speed bump that you couldn't idle over and have to give the car some gas to power it up over the bump.
When the tow truck got there - I watched the driver drive the Explorer up onto the bed of the tow truck. What I noticed was this:
The left front tire was completely locked when he was hitting the gas. But when he gave it enough gas, the right tire that was working would push the car forward while the left tire remained locked creating friction on the pavement but the car was still moving forward from the other wheel.
Then after 3 or 4 feet - the left tire would unlock/release and start to rotate - causing the car to suddenly lurch forward. But then after another few few it would lock again. Then release again.
The thing I found odd was that when the driver later reversed the car down off the truck - the left front wheel worked just fine. So the car works perfectly in reverse, but in drive the left wheel locks then releases then locks then releases.
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-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
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