My 97 Explorer 4.0 SOHC has started to bog down when I press the accelerator. It feels like their is interference with the exhaust. I has a new muffler and there are no holes in the exhaust system. When I stop at a light or in traffic, it will stall. I have to keep the RPMs at 1000 while holding the brake. There is no check engine light on. Where I should begin to look?
View 6 RepliesI drove a '97 with the 5.0 and AWD. I noticed that when I turned around in the neighborhood, the steering started to feel a little heavy during a U-turn. I was pretty close to full steering input to the left, but not quite at the lock. Also, it seemed like the tires might be scrubbing the pavement a little bit. No real binding or hopping, just that feel you get when you have the transfer case locked in your old-school 4X4 and make sharps turns. Is this typical for the AWD?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
View 14 RepliesI have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
I have had my car since it rolled out of the plant. Along with other issues one of the most bothersome is a strange smell when I accelerate above 60 mph and it gets worse between 70 and 80mph. Additionally, when I pull into my garage after having smelled this smell on the freeway, I can smell it on the outside of my car.
My car has been in and out of the Ford dealership every month for many issues but this particular issue each time I bring it in. It wasn't until my most recent visit that they told me that with new cars one can occasionally smell this when undertaking a hard acceleration. Then I was asked if I have visited websites or asked questions on the web about this smell. But until now I didn't know what the smell was.
I have been on websites that say this is normal for new cars but if the smell gets worse over time there is a problem with the carburetor. I need to know exactly what to tell the Ford dealership when I go in again have them fix this problem. I also would like to know if this smell I smell is harmful to my children and I. And is it leaking the smell all the time but it is just over a certain MPH that I can smell it.
I have read up quite a bit on this whistle that the 4.0 liter SOHC engine makes while accelerating. Sounds like something in the TB or intake to me. There are no definitive answers to the whistle that I could find. Need to resolve this whistling noise? It's a very high pitched whistle only while accelerating at about 1/3 throttle.
View 4 RepliesMy 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
I have a 2006 f150 5.4l, and I have developed a problem. It seems the my truck has started to skip, or "pulsate" when I am accelerating. If I really get on the gas the "pulsate" goes away. This only seems to happen around 45-50 mph. Now this is where it gets weird. I have no check engine light on, and I have checked to make sure my light is working. I brought it to a garage and they told me something about Fords having a misfire issue that sometimes doesn't trigger a check engine light. . . . . now idk about that because every misfire I have seen triggers a check engine light, but I had them replace the spark plugs anyways. And it didn't fix my problem. At this point the only thing I can think of is possibly tranny.
View 11 RepliesMy mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
I had heard clunking when hard accelerating or hard stopping my 2003 Explorer, also heard it from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected u-joints, was correct, those were replaced.
After I received my car back I noticed the clunk was louder when hard accelerating or hard stopping; again from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected rear differential. I called my mechanic who said they noticed some play in the rear end - a little loose, that the noise would be noticeable...but that if it were him he wouldn't worry about it. He said the drive shaft was tight, that I wasn't in danger of it falling out, etc.
These are the only symptoms I have that something is wrong with the SUV. Just that clunk. If I come off slow from a stop and not hit the gas, there is no clunk. If I do not hard stop, again I can avoid the clunk. The vehicle does not vibrate or make noise on the freeway, shifts well between gears.
I was going to have my mechanic open the rear end up and see what needed to be replaced when the cold weather brakes. In the meantime, is there anything I need to be keeping an eye on, or something else I should check? My mechanic said the checked it over and couldn't find any other problems. I just want to be prepared for expenses.
It's a 2W, not 4WD. I had all the fluids done, a drain and refill on rear. Not sure if that's important to know or not.
I have a 1996 Explorer XLT 4x4 and I hear what I call barring making a noise when I accelerate. If it is the bearings in the rear end how expensive is this to fix? I love my truck but I'm on a fixed income and scared to death. I will not drive it until I get some sort of idea as to what and where I should take it.
View 2 RepliesI'm the original owner at 50k miles with Ford ESP warranty. Drive-train still under original warranty. I started noticing a low growl hum noise and vibration felt on gas pedal when accelerating at about 40 MPH. At first I thought it was the road or tires.
Then a few weeks later on a slight hill the growl-low hum was accompanied with a much more noticeable/louder growl/grinding noise in a heartbeat like rhythm. Took it to dealer and they first said it was the transmission. It was replaced.
Then they said the noise was from the rear differential/axle. It was rebuilt, oiled and sealed. Taking it back today for another drive with the mechanic to show them again the problem persist. What it may be? Also, my MPG has dropped significantly from an average of 18 to 13. This is while driving on 4x4 Auto.
We have a '99 Explorer AWD with the 5.0 and the 4R70W transmission. This morning the "OD off" light started blinking. I looked it up in the owners manual and it said "see your tech" or something like that. I drove it on the freeway and the only thing I can see different is the RPMs are a couple of hundred more @ the same speed. It shifts fine. I put a couple of quarts of fluid in it just to be sure. The white plastic stick is hard to read.
View 6 RepliesWhen car is started, volume on radio is very low. As the car warms up, the radio volume increases. What do I check or fix?
View 13 RepliesI was reading about the blinking 4x4 light. I am having a problem with the 4x4high being on and my ABS light is on also I got the brakes fixed but light is still on and yesterday when it was raining the 4x4hi started blinking don't know y also I have to get 2 upper ball joints don't know if that is y when sometimes I turn the car kind of sounds like the tire is rubbing on something and it kind of jerks. I don't want to have to spend a lot of money on things that aren't wrong.
View 1 RepliesI have been puzzled to why my truck isn't running right. We were driving down the highway one day and*then all of the sudden it starts running really rough. I changed MAF sensor, plugs and plug wires, oil change, fuel filter and air filter. Still doing the same thing. What this could be? 2003 ford sport trac..
View 11 RepliesI have a 93 Ford Explorer, manual transmission. About a month ago it intermittently started running very rough. I does this wether the weather is rainy or not. The engine has done this when it just started up, cold, and when it's been fully warmed up. I have been able to drive it, but it has been quite a challenge. When running, there is a very noticeable noxious exhaust smell. The check engine light has come on some of the time. When the eec codes were checked it only revealed 522, the car wasn't in park or neutral when running the test.
I have tried clearing and rerunning this test several times, yet 522 still shows up. No other fault codes. Don't know how this would cause engine to perform so bad. The fuel tank has been near full when it happened so I believe the gas to be good/ no water. The engine has a lot of mileage on it, over 200K, so I'm not sure if something inside could be malfunctioning, but don't know how to check. The car will run for days very smoothly before this happens again. I have changed plugs, wires and the pcv valve and it still occurs. It's like the engine is hitting on one cylinder when it happens.
I have a 2003 Explorer.... 4wd..... and here's my story.. I had a tire blow out (front driver side) and I took it to a tire chain to get it replaced (it was the closest thing to where it happened and I had to get to work)
After the tire was replaced, the truck started to rumble in the front and seemed like the brake was being pressed while I was driving. I called the chain tire store and told them my truck was not doing this prior to them replacing the tire. They said it was fine because I was riding on a better tread tire and the remaining tires were worn.... (okay..maybe so?)
I drive 80 miles one way to work....the whole way there...rumbling and this 'brake applied' feeling. Worked my shift...drove the 80 miles back home...same thing.
Took truck back to store....they said that it was the Front Drive Shaft had cracked at the Transfer case.... I've asked a few people and they think it's just the ABS still locked because I was traveling a high rate of speed when my tire went out. I think the tire store chain screwed up when they replaced the tire....
I have a 07 Explorer with the 4.6 that just developed a problem. It has 75,000 on it and has all of sudden started shaking at idle and acceleration. The acceleration issue doesn't seem to occur until after 45mph. I have cleaned air filter and MAF sensor. Still need to put a code reader on it. Where to start troubleshooting.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 for explorer XLT 2-wheel drive Automatic 4.0 engine. The starter started grinding against the fly-wheel. Changed the starter and the same thing happened. There is no shim for this starter. I took it down and checked the flywheel--as much as I can see through the starter mount hole and the teeth on the flywheel are great. There is only the slightest point of impact where the starter is just grazing the flywheel.
I also grabbed the flywheel to look for looseness, thinking it might have broken and/or warped and I just can't see where it broken because of the small hole. It's solid! It's as if the whole thing just moved back about an inch and a half... I texted both the old and new starters with jumper cables, and the make certain, I took them to the local parts store and they also texted them. While both of the starter were fine, I'm not!
I have a 2003 explorer where the pinion bearing has started to go, now the rear is starting to whine. the truck is a 2003, its a limited, with the 4.6 v8 in it. I would like to swap the rear with another used one, rather than rebuild the diff. the car is AWD, has a hitch receiver so I would imagine it has the tow package, my question is could I grab a rear out of a non AWD explorer, or one that had the 4.0 in front of it? something with the same gear ratio but out of a similar, non exact car, it has the advancetrac in it with the push button on the center console.
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