Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - No Start / Flooding With Fuel
Jan 13, 2015
Ok so I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC .. The girl that owns it went out and started it to warm up and went back in the house , when she came back out it had died and wouldn't start .. I hauled to our shop and started diagnosing it .
It has spark
has fuel
Timing is good
Fuel pressure regulator is good
Crank sensor is good
About 62 PSI fuel pressure
No CEL
Seems to be getting WAY too much fuel and fouling plugs !
Replaced ECM ...same thing .
Used NOID light on injector wire and I have never seen one get so bright !
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What would make a FI engine act like its flooding out and dying after a short run on the freeway?
Details:
1994 F-350 351W (just overhauled this winter)
has new TPS, ICM(?).
Dual exhaust dumps right before the tires
new filters in tanks, new fuel filter on frame rail
All fuel lines have been opened and blown out from the tank to the engine compartment fitting near firewall.
Fuel pumps hold good pressure when tested.
Symptoms:
smells like its running rich most all the time
after a short hiway run @ 70MPH it will stumble and die when returning to surface streets.
fuel smell near engine sometimes, but no obvious puddles or leaks anywhere.
May be related?:
When on a longer highway run, I can't use the FWD tank for a long period without the engine stumbling and cutting out or popping at times. But I can swap to the rear tank for a bit then run the FWD tank again for a while. driving up hills it seems to be worse, but I'm in the panhandle of TX right now..good grief!
I am having to drive this truck for work long distances. While I dont expect a vast fuel range, it would be nice if I could go a couple hundred miles on 20 gallons of gas....
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I have a 4bbl intake on my 390, and an edelbrock 750/w manual choke on it. #1407. I can drive this truck just fine for the most part, it has good power while using the primary two barrels. (I think the ones always in use are the primaries?) Anyways if i open all four up, pedal to the floor, but at about 45+ mph, the engine runs no problem, although it seems to drop rpm slightly once the 2nd two barrels are opened.
BUT, if I am shifting, like today example 2nd to 3rd, and floor it from the shift, it popped and died out, flooded. Happened to me twice today within an hour. the first time it flooded I'm not sure why it happened, but the second time was as stated above. Is the carb just too much and floods when floored like that? Anything I can do to eliminate this? accelerator pump setting? If I have too i'll end up buying a 600 eventually, but stick with the 750 for now...
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My engine is running rich, flooding? My truck is a 1986 F-150 302 EFI. The engine idles rough, black smoke and soot comes out the exhaust pipes, and black soot on spark plugs. Symptoms seem to disappear if I throttle the engine and hold it, but as soon as I release the throttle the symptoms reappear and in most case causes the engine to die. These symptoms have just started a week ago. What the problem is.
Fuel injectors are cleaned and rebuilt. New plugs and wires. All new fuel pumps and filters. New air filters. New fuel pressure regulator. New dual function reservoir. New 3-piece timing set. New O2 sensor. New EGR Valve and sensor. New idle air control valve. New distributor, cap, and rotor. New ignition coil. New high volume oil pump. New alternator. New pcv valve. New knock sensor and air charge temp. sensor.
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I have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
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My '97 Explorer is struggling to take on fuel at fuel fill. Started all of a sudden...At gas station last week I inserted nozzle and attempted to fill tank as I normally do. It would not accept fuel at a fast pace. It keeps clicking the gas pump trigger off. I keep squeezing and it keep clicking of every 1-2 seconds!! What can this be? What steps can I take to analyze before I start replacing parts at random?
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Hard start like it's not getting enough fuel then kicks in and runs great with no hesitations or issues and with plenty of power. Replaced fuel filter, nothing changed.
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I have a 2000 4.0 Explorer that sometimes will not start. It has happened on cool mornings as well as hot days after I shut it off, for example, shutting it off to fuel up. I always turn the key to the on position and wait a second or two before cranking, and when I do that, I can usually hear the fuel pump. It's when I don't hear the fuel pump that I know it won't start, and sure enough, crank and no start. My question is, is the fuel pump going out? Or another thought I had was maybe the inertia switch starting to fail? It runs great when it starts, just has a problem starting sometimes.
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2000 explorer XLT, 4.0L, OHV (VIN "X")---sitting for 15 months, engine turns over but no start unless 10 cc's of gasoline into intake manifold, then runs for 4-5 seconds. Fuel pressure of 5-6 PSI at fuel rail AFTER replaced fuel pump assembly and fuel filter. I can hear fuel pump come on for about a second with key on. Doubel checked fuses and relays for fuel pump and PCM, then again checked that engine would run briefly with gas squirted into intake manifold. Questions:
1) Could fuel lines be clogged after sitting for over a year?
2) Area driver's side next to spare tire, underneath jack storage, where return fuel lines are clustered (nuts are rusted and need to be sawed off)---some type of fuel regulator here? I thought fuel pressure regulator was on fuel pump assembly.
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My parent's bought a 2002 Explorer 4.0 V6 very early, either late '01 or early '02 when it first came out. Besides the dash blackout (which I found a fix for, need to do) it's been plauged latley (since Nov/Dec 2010) with the intermittent issue of when... You turn the key on to start, you dont hear the fuel pump enguage, thus no start. Get towed, it works like a champ.
It's blown a fuse 1 or 2 times cause of this, had the fuel pump recently replaced (dec/jan this year) and just did it again. Our local Ford dealership figured the fuel pump went bad from sitting, the vehicle only has about 33k miles on it (dad dont drive much). What appears to be a bad fuel pump, only to have it get towed, or sit overnight and start like nothing ever happened?
Dad's ranting about not trusting the vehicle anymore, he's 80yrs old so I can't blame him for wanting to feel comfortable with knowing his vehicle should start, but it is a machine, they do break but we cant seem to get this fixed.
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My explorer starts fine some days and others it just wont. No codes, have replaced fuel pump. Rail and starter.
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I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
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Sometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
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I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
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Drove it yesterday no problems. got in this morning tried to start and would not turn over. thought it was a dead battery. Ran jumper cables to my wifes car waited for a while tried again. nothing. bought a new battery put it in. Nothing. I did notice when turning the key the dash lights come on then half a second they go out. interior lights, and 12v outlet work but no headlights. Any issue other than the obvious corroded terminals or loose terminal wires?
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer. Starting about 4 months ago I have had intermittent problems with it not wanting to start.When you turn the key the radio and dome lights etc. come on but it is dead silence from the motor.First time it happened we ended up replacing the starter solenoid. Next time we discovered that if you "jump" the 2 posts on the solenoid (using well insulated rubber handled pliers) while turning the ignition it will start every time.Took it to a local, reputable mechanic - he is baffled. They looked at every connection and wire they could think of.It is not the battery or solenoid, as best we can tell. It does not do it all the time. It will ocur, then it will start fine for 2 weeks then happen 3 times in a row, then not happenf for say another week or two.
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I'm working on a 1997 4.0 ohv and it has a hard start condition on first start up. any after that it will just be a crank no start condition unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor. Replaced the camshaft actuator, plenum gaskets, coolant temp sender and thermostat, fuel pressure is normal.
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I have a '97 Explorer XLT with a 5.0L V8. Recently, I've developed a problem, in which it doesn't always start. Sometimes, when I turn the key, there is a very loud click (as if the solenoid is engaging), but there is no start. The battery is NEW, and confirmed good, and the terminal connections are tight. I have also replaced the solenoid, but the issue remains.
If I turn on the headlights, before trying to start it, the lights DO NOT dim when the key is turned...indicating NO draw, on the electrical system. I can try it several days a week, unsuccessfully. And then, one day, I can turn the key and it will start as if there was never a problem to begin with.
I have lost confidence in my favorite vehicle, as I am afraid to drive it if/when it does start, for fear of being stranded. I am thinking it may just have a bad armature, or windings in the starter, but if that doesn't correct it, I can't return the starter (as it is an electrical component).
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Got a 97 ford explorer sport that wont start. It will go like its going to start but I've only got it to run with ether then dies got new battery n tps thinking its the alternator because i hear a ticking in that area and the battery is now dead after i charged it all the way up granted. I did try consistently to get and keep running?
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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