Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Misfiring Constantly Most Of The Time
Dec 6, 2016
My 1997 Explorer 4.0 is giving me a run for my money. About a month ago, it started misfiring and threw a P0300, 301 and 306. It didn't misfire constantly though only most of the time; sometimes it would run perfect which leads me to believe the issue is electrical. I've had trouble with the coil before so I changed it and no difference. The next time I scanned it, there was only the 306 code. Next I made sure that cylinder six was misfiring and the rest were firing by pulling the wire off the coil.
All checked out but one and six. I've already checked the wires, they're both good. I swapped the plug on cylinders 5 and 6 in the hopes that the problem would follow the plug; nope. Fuses are all good. So I know the coil, wires and plugs are good. That leaves me with air and fuel. I can't imagine anything is wrong with the air intake seeing that it still runs. That leaves me with fuel. It has 200k on it and I've never done injectors. Maybe its injectors but why would they only be faulty part of the time?
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The air bag lite is flashing 3-3 when you start up the truck. After several 33 codes it stays on constantly. I look up on internet and 33 is "passenger air bag open circuit". Pulled the glove box door and disconnected the wires and wiggled and reattached, still have code.
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Changed the spark plugs now I have misfire in cylinders 3 and 6. Do I change the spark plug wires or the coil pack?
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My neice bought a 2000 Explorer Sport back in November. Soon afterwards it developed a misfire and the CEL came on. I put on a new set of wires and a new set of plugs. I noticed when I replaced the plugs that the #3 plug was missing the ceramic near the electrode. I figured it was just a cheap Bosch plug and didn't give it much thought. The vehicle ran great.
Recently the misfire came back and the CEL came back on. When I pulled the plugs #3 had a cracked ceramic around the electrode, #4 was wet with fuel and not firing at all, and #6 was completely missing the ceramic around the electrode.
I replaced the plugs again, replaced the coil pack and cleaned the MAF sensor and it's running great again.
My question is, what would cause the ceramic to disintegrate on the plugs? There didn't seem to be any pinging or detonation. I replaced the coil pack because I thought maybe it was erratic, loading up on fuel and then causing a big bang and then destroying the plug. Are my thoughts way off? I want to make sure this is fixed so that it doesn't tear up anything else.
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Alright so a friend of mine has a Ford Explore with the little switch on the dash for auto 4 wheel, high 4 wheel, and low 4 wheel. When it is in Auto it has no issues drives fine and good. As soon as you turn it to 4 wheels high and start to go all you get is a loud clunking noise constantly. Another friend had a similair issue with an AWD explorer that we just pulled the front drive shaft and it seemed to solve the issue. How would I test the driveshaft to see if that's the issue.
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2007 Explorer Sport Trac was misfiring when first started and then would settle down. Now it is misfiring and when I try to drive it, it does quiet a bit of sputtering and has no power. Took it to mechanic he said it would be hard to tell if it was fuel injectors or what.
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I just bought a 2000 ford explorer which didn't start... I put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and air filter in it...still not starting ...gonna do a a compression test tomm. and see if it the timing chains or tensioners... Sounds like its misfiring actually, it doesn't start with starting fluid sprayed in it....where is the ignition pickup located on these things? I still need to put a new ignition coil and wires on it. plugs were in horrendous shape and i thought that was the problem.
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2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLT v6 4.0 with 89k.
Lately my truck has been acting funny. About 1 out of 3 times I start my truck and put it n reverse it starts doing what I would describe as a hesitation. If I sit for about 10 seconds, it will stop. But if I move while it is happening it will move and jerk as if i was slightly hitting the brake constantly (no the parking break is not on). It will continue when I throw it in drive until I give it some gas. From then on as far as I can tell there are no problems. It doesn't do it every time. I went in for an oil change and they told me I will need to replace the belt soon, so could that be the culprit?
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I have a 2000 ford explorer. 4x4 v6. One day i started it up and it was running rough. It had real sluggish power. Then the check engine light came on. I hooked it up to the code machine. The only readout was number 3 misfired. I replaced the plug and all was fine. A few months it happend again. I replaced it again and it was fine. Well it just happened again. I replaced it again. It ran good to work but on the way back no good. Light came on again. Hooked up the machine it read number 4 misfired and number 2 bank lean. So I replaced number 4. It still runs like shit rough idle and no power. Give it gas it dogs out but then it'll kick in if i get on it. Thinking it maybe a vaccum leak or intake leak or o-rings.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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I have a 98 F-250 5.4L that has a constant ABS Light illuminated. My truck seems to brake fine ... I just bought this vehicle used and it has 93,800 miles on it.
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Just serviced an '03 F150 (4.6/4R70/4x4, 129,000 miles) where the shifter had come clean off. I replaced it with the Dorman replacement and had the battery disconnected during replacement just in case.
Once it was all hooked up I put the neg batt cable back on and turned on the key. If I hit the OD button it would only illuminate momentarily, ie so long as I was holding the button. I thought that odd so I started the truck and then hit the button again at which point it blew fuse 29.
I replaced Fuse 29 and now the OD cancel button is illuminated constantly - PRND21, doesn't matter. It will not toggle off. I thought maybe it was the switch itself at the end of the shifter and I just happened to have a new-in-the-sealed-bag Ford OEM switch that I swapped in, but no change. I also pulled the Dorman part again and checked for a short between the three wires that run in the shifter, but they're all good.
Then I pulled Fuse 29 and it still won't shift into OD while driving on the highway.
Oh, I will say it appears to be overfilled, I'm gonna see if I can suck some out of the dipstick tube but I'm not confident an overfill would cause this.
OD cancel light always on (does NOT flash). Will not shift into OD at any speed. No codes.
Basically I think something is wrong mechanically and the truck is trying to say so with the constant OD light.
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6 the airbag light in the cluster is constantly staying on it does not flash at all. The only threads I can find are for the airbag light flashing which mine does not do. The passenger airbag light is not burnt out so that's not the problem. Where to start looking.
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My girlfriend just bought a 98 XLT AWD 4.0. does have a few problems.
First, the brake light is on (on the dash). all the lines are good, but the front pads need to be changed. if i take off hard, the brake light goes out for a bit.
Second, had a CEL. P0743, torque converter clutch circuit blah blah. also, the o/d light flashes constantly.
The trans shifts fine, even under WOT. also goes into o/d with no problems, and the button works.
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Trucks throwing codes for cylinder 3 and 8 misfire. I pulled the plugs and both were covered in oil and cylinder 8s electrode was literally gone. so I replaced the plugs and within 5 miles it was missing again. so I replaced all plugs, all wires and coil packs. cylinder 8 plug had fouled out. Its a 4.6l 99. I have a mild exhaust leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. but not bad enough I feel it should matter. it runs rough until about 3k rpm and then it kinda straightens out.
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Need some input on miss firing on acceleration on a 2001 Ford SuperCrew F-150 Lariat, 5.4 engine. 200,290 miles.
Have replaced all spark plug boots covers (Sept 2012), number 1 plug (Sept 2012), 3 and 7 plugs replaced, 3 and 7 has heli-coil kits (2011) installed for blown out plugs. New in-take manifold (2010). New gas line filter, air and oil filters (Oct 2012) and oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles. Have poured 12 oz. fuel injector cleaner in gas take two times with 6 to 7 gallons of fuel in gas tank (last 2 weeks).
Have No check engine light on for service engine but have had an diagnostic scanner analyzer plugged into driver side, in cab outlet, 4 different times to see if I have a bad coil on plug or other problems. No codes show up indicating any problems. The engine idles nicely when at stop lights but does have a slight intermittent miss at times when warmed up and stopped at lights. Engine misses when warmed up on acceleration (when it is under a load and on acceleration).
Had a mechanic tell me he could plug an analyzer into engine but couldn't guarantee he would find anything wrong. This sounded like a little snow in July to me and the mechanic didn't sound optimistic.
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97 F150 4x4 XLT 5.4L... I had two cylinders misfiring, removed COP, injectors and plugs. Reinstalled all parts and reconnected all sensors. Now I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Double checked for disconnected wires and hoses, checked all fuses and relays, also the inertia switch. Fuel pump does not hum when key turned on. Tried hitting bottom of gas tank. My question is, before I pull the tank again, is there something under the hood I may be missing. It does get quite crowded at the rear of the motor.
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I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
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I have a 1997 f150 lariat 4.6, at some point i started losing power, so of course I had my friend come by and check all the mechanics under neath the hood and besides needing caps and rotors all seemed well under there, so twice I've put it on a computer and it needs and o2 sensor, I've already checked my Cadillac coverter , and dropped and replaced my gas tank twice, I ended up having to replace a shock, it does run better when i put heat through it for a short time.
I've been checking my antifreeze and I am not losing none, I also did regular maintenance to it to figuring it was a fowled plug but still no good , so whats next ? coils ? I didn't replace my plug wires but I checked them all and they looked to be in good condition and I have a transmission filter kit to change that out I don't believe its been done ever ..
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