Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Idle Too Low?
Nov 8, 2011
After replacing a faulty spark plug wire on my '97 explorer, I started the engine (4.0 liter pushrod) and noticed the idle much lower than it was previously- to the point it now borders on stalling. The wire I replaced was on the right side (if facing engine from front) closest to the firewall. I thought I may have worked a vacuum hose loose when feeding the wire under the intake, but I checked and checked and saw nothing amiss. What I may've did (if anything) to cause this problem?
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I have a 1997 explorer xlt 2 wheel drive 4 door. It's got 189,000 miles on it. It's shakes a lot on idle when put in drive. I've replaced a lot of stuff. I've also lost a lot of power. I can put the gas pedal to the floor and still not get enough power. The shaking feels like it's about the stall out but it doesn't. Oh and there a rear main leak if that works.
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
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I have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
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I have a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 V6 SOHC w/ 135K miles. All of a sudden it has an idle issue that's driving me nuts and the dealership can't fix. It has been in the shop 4 times for this problem so far.
It accelerates and cruises great, but when I come to a stoplight, the idle goes down to 900, then suddenly drops to 600 and idles rough. The "Check Engine" light is NOT lit. There is no hesitation, backfire or any other running problem. I have had plugs and wires, PCV valve, IAC valve and MAF sensor replaced. Technicians have checked for vacuum leaks and intake air gasket leaks and have found nothing.
I can "power brake" it and smooth it out some and even turning on the a/c or defroster boosts the idle and works a little. Shifting to neutral or park does not raise the idle like previous cars I owned. I only drive this car back and forth to work, about 1000 miles a month, and I'd like to make this Explorer last at least 200K miles. We just got a Ford Escape and I do not want another car payment right now!
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1999 Explorer starts then will not idle unless it is put into gear. It only happens once in a while...
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Background info: Had a blown head gasket and a mechanic used a sealant on it to patch it up. Car went from not turning on to running ok
Problem: at idle the engine creaks. It isn't a ticking or knocking but definitely more of a creaking sound. Can't figure out if this is safe for the car to be driven and what could be causing it.
I have a video of the sound .... Potentially a head gasket that was partially fixed maybe??
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Friend of mine said that the air conditioning on her 2001 Ford Explorer only works when her car is in idle. She said that when she steps on the gas the fan continues to work but doesn't blow cold air. If she stops at a stop sign it works... and so on.
She has taken it to a shop that specializes in air conditioning and he checked and cleaned off a few connections (whatever that means) and thought that would do it but it didn't. She is going to go back this weekend.
I told her that I would think that a specialist would see the idle/drive issue as a good clue as to what the problem is.
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2000 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC.
It starts fine under all conditions but when cold, like in the 30s or lower, it doesn't want to remain idling, yet no CEL comes on. New fuel pump. The throttle body is cleaned, as are the injectors. It runs super once it gets past the cold startup issue.
I was thinking a sensor is getting weak but not weak enough to set the CEL.
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When I start the truck it hard to start and the idle is rough but when it warms up it seems to get better but still miss fires now and then so i was thinking could it be a bad O2 there is now "CEL" because the battery was dead (installed a new one) and the truck has not been on the road yet (want to get everything fixed first) and update on the door alarm will be working on that tomorrow almost forgot 2002 explorer 4.0L "E" for the vin 4 wheel drive 124k on it.
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I have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.
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My explorer has been running a little rough, particularly at idle. When I take off from a rough idle, it'll run rough until I hit 25-30mph. I ran by O'Reilly's hoping to pick up a pack of spark plugs and be done with it, ended up leaving with a new MAF sensor. It ran better for about 10 miles (I'm a delivery driver, so I did a lot of stop and go immediately), before it ran even worse than it did before, but at least my CEL finally came on. Took it back to O'Reilly's and they read a MAF sensor code and a catalytic system code (didn't ask for the codes, and now realize that was a mistake).
So today I took it to a muffler shop to have the catalytic system diagnosed. They looked at it for 10 minutes and told me they didn't think it was the converter. They said it seemed more like the EGR valve or solenoid, or the IAC. He scanned the codes again and got multiple "running lean" codes (0171, 0174, etc). The guy said I didn't have a vacuum leak, so I think I can rule that out. Unfortunately, the truck idled fine the whole time so he didn't feel comfortable giving me a definitive answer. He told to to leave the EGR valve hose unplugged for a few days and see if anything changes. I'm thinking about running a bottle of fuel cleaner through it or taking off the IAC and/or EGR and cleaning them myself.
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99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
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I have tried playing with screw that controls throttle plate it does work at first allowing to reach 1200 rpm at idle however after stopping car and starting again it does go down to ~600rpm again like computer adjusts it back to desired level. There's also **** on Idle valve however turning it does nothing.
Is there way to reprogram computer to make 1200 a desired RPM?
Like try this yourself reach about 1200 rpm and then hold your leg still not looking at the rpm your once you hold it for a while it goes down to normal rpm, only way to hold constant 1200 RPM is to play with gas pedal.
I want to raise RPM to avoid misfire.
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What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
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Bought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
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My 'new to me' '97 Explorer has this odd 'rumble' every now and then, as if I just ran over some rumble strips. Very brief, maybe a second or less, as if I hit 5 or 6 of those bumps. It is a V8, XLT all wheel drive and I'm not familiar with it. Is this something I need to get looked at soon or is it just one of those things with the AWD. I only driven it a few times so I don't see a pattern and all else is great. Its a tight truck with less than 100K miles and I really enjoy it.
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Have a 97 Explorer 4x4. lately when I start the truck it has shifted itself into 4x4 low. I had disconnected the battery for a few minutes, re-connected and the truck was back in auto. This no longer works and it is stuck in 4x4 low. Mechanic wants to replace transfer case encoder, but says more diag needed after to replacing encoder motor to determine internal failure and may need more work. Can I simply have the 4x4 low disengaged manually?
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Just got this vehicle a week ago. Test drove before I bought but that drive was fine. Then after driving I started have a popping. Started paying attention at this point and noting what happens when.
It seems I don't have any problem at all until she gets warmed up. I can drive about 20 miles with no problem. Then the OD is Off light starts flashing. Then when I decelerate to stop, I have a big popping at exactly 20 mph. I then have 2 smaller pops once I take off from my stop.
I started searching online everywhere to determine the cause. I am a female whose daddy taught them just enough not to be completely stupid, but not near enough to be able to fix my own car problems. I thought from what I've read that this issue might be a torque converter. I do have a hum after a while that sounds like road noise....like I saw one other person post about bad TC's. But I haven't seen any posts that address the popping.
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I just bought a 97 explorer and the abs light is on is there a way to pull the codes without an abs scanner?
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1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
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