Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Engine Will Not Shut Off
Mar 7, 2014
Have a 97 explorer 4wd xlt push rod. The key will not turn the engine off( when the unit is hot) with head lights on, I turn key off engine runs, i reach over and turn the headlights off engine will shut off. Start back with the headlights off the engine will shut right off, but if I turn the headlights on on while it is running and leave them on it will not shut off, unless i turn headlights off.cold start does fine.. I can turn ign key to the off position radio stops playing, so I know it is not the the switch or rod. I was going down the highway and lost dash lights and taillights the other day I moved the switch a little and they came back on the ign switch worked perfect that day.
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97 Exp xlt 6 cyl --- While driving at night w/high beams on, all lights will go completely out. Turn light switch off and back on, then they will come on again. Where to start.
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2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
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I have a 2001 Sport Trac with the 4.0L engine and it's not producing a spark. The problem started when my dad was driving down the road and be claims it just shut off without warning, no sputtering, nothing. He had taken it to a shop and they had just come right out and said the engine went. My bf looked at it and he says there are no signs whatsoever of the engine going.
No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, we have replaced the ECM, coil pack, crank sensor, spark plugs, and checked the fuel. The theft light flashes every few seconds, not rapidly, so we ruled that out. The truck turns but doesn't start, when the key is turned to the "run" position, you can hear everything turn on, it just doesn't start. When it cranks, it isn't fast or slow, it's the normal speed from what I can remember so I'm not sure if it could be the timing chain or not. Where we can go from there?
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The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary.
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4.6 liter V8 limited.
Problem 1 : Driving into a small town I slowed to 35 mph and set cruise control to hold speed. Suddenly a loud warning tone/ beep sounded and the engine shut off. I coasted into a parking lot and restarted and drove the rest of the way home without incident. (another 1-1/2 hour drive). Could I have had an auto shut down because of a low fluid sensor or something similar?
My cold antifreeze was below the cold fill range but still was visible in the container. The temperatures were not high and the heater still worked. All other levels were normal.
Problem 2 : It also have an irritating buzz in the dash some where. Sounds almost like you would imagine a speedometer cable could sound, except no cable. Could it be the speedometer? It is intermittent and seems related to either speed or RPM.
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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1997 Ford Explorer 4.0L the engine just died while idling. The engine will not turn over at all. Battery and cables are good. Able to get engine to turn over with screw driver on starter relay but still won’t start. Checked spark when bypassing relay with screw driver and spark is Ok.
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I bought a 97 4.0 SOHC about 2 weeks ago with 85k miles on it. I noticed a slight rattle coming from the engine after I got home. I bought it from an individual who I don't think was aware of the problem. I did some investigating on FTE and talked to a friend who has a 98 that locked up at 40k with timing chain problems. After listening to the engine and reading posts I determined it was either the tensioner and the chain guides or both.
I took it to my local dealer to have them check it out. I told him I thought it was 1 or both of these problems. And was aware of the Owner Notification Programs for these issues. And that the tensioner ONP 00M12 was expired but not the guide ONP 01MO1. He said it sounds like the tensioner, and that 99% of the time that was the problem. I said go ahead and check it out, but while your in there could you look at the guides and replace them if they need it since they are covered. He said " They will look at them and replace them if the need it". They ended up just replacing the top tensioner.
I got the vehicle out the next day and 50% of the noise was gone, but a rattle persisted. I took it back and pointed this out, their mechanic said it sounded like it could be the catalytic converter. but they would have to listen more closely to determine where the sound was coming from. Of course my suspicion is and was the chain guides all along. So this morning he called me and said it is a timing chain area noise, but they don't think it is the guides they think it is the middle tensioner. Big surprise, they don't think it is the guides, so I said go ahead and spend 5.5 hrs of labor to tear it down and see what the problem is. He said if it turns out to be the guides it is covered under the ONP. But if its the bottom tensioner "bend over" actually he didn't say that last part, I was paraphrasing.
So here we are, grabbing my ankles waiting for word on the cause. I told him when they get it torn down I want to come down there and physically inspect the problem, he was fine with that. Here is my deal regardless of the problem, they should not have charged me for the original 5 hrs of labor to replace the top tensioner, if that did not fix the entire problem, they could have replaced that one when they reassembled the engine after checking out the guides. And not only that but why are they so resistant to say it is the guides, Ford is the one who foots the bill. Not only that but if it is the middle tensioner as well how do they know the guides are not contributing to the sound, and if so they should be covered and they should only charge me for the parts for the 2 tensioners.
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My 97 Rav4 shut down on the highway yesterday. Checked the oil when I lifted the hood. It has only been 4500 since the last oil change, but the oil was barely registering on the stick. The engine will turn over, but will not start. Do Toyotas have an auto shut off mechanism when the oil gets too low or is my Rav4 toast? There were no warnings, temperature, low oil light, nothing.
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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I have a 2005 Sport trac and just recently my windshield wipers, while in intermittent mode, started going at normal speed. It started as here and there, but now it's constant to where I have to pull the 20A fuse to the wiper motor to turn them off. A bit of a hassle. The ford dealer gave me a relay, but couldn't tell me where it goes. I tried another part store and they can't find any info on where this stupid thing goes. I have searched the internet every which way I can think of and can't find any info on it at all!! Where is the relay for the wipers? It is not in the relay box. That I can find anyway.
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It's a 2002 Ford Explorer with 93000 miles. When sitting in traffic, for instance, my vehicle makes that little rattling or trembling sound as if it's about to shut off. However, it never does turn off on its own. But I'm curious what's causing that sound.
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2002 Ford Explorer Sport .. Just started last evening when I returned home .. Closing lights low beam ( yellow & rear tail light ) did not shut .. Bell sounding .. Not dealing with it last night disconnected ground cable off battery ..
This morning took a look .. Connected ground cable too battery. Expecting low beam lights too go on. Did not .
Turning lights on & off. Head lights work fine. yellow and rear stay lit ..
Disconnected battery, OFF .. Reconnected battery cable yellow light stays off until I turn on head lights, and will not shut off from switch .. Thinking light switch ?
Could a burned out fuse in another fuse cavity cause this effect? How can I test ??
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My 1997 Explorer with a 5.0 will surge making the truck lunge forward unexpectedly. If I drop it into neutral the RPMs drop right down.
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2004 sport track 4wd. never had issues..no oil burn, leaks, af use..nothing. was a great truck. going to work.heard a thump and truck shut down.
oil was high on dip stick..no AF left..it all went into motor on top. seized up engine and crank broke into pieces...done..
got a new engine put in this week.
Has this been an issue with these engines..or did I just have some bad mojo?
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I have a 2003 Sport Trac that basically died last night on me. I drove it 30 miles Shut it off for about 10 minutes came back out and it cranks but it will not start. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and it ran for a second, so it's definitely a fuel issue. I am just not sure if it could be a fuel pump, Relay, or a dirty Fuel filter (I have not changed in the 87K I had the truck). Because it ran fine before it died..
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I have a '99 Explorer XLT and when I turn the high beams on, the fog/driving lights shut off. Is this normal? Is there a way I can keep the fogs on while the highs are on?
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2003 F-150 v8 4.2 4x4 with 295k miles ...
Yesterday while driving in town going 35-40mph my F-150 gauges spiked just before the engine shut off. While still moving I shifted to neutral and tried to restart, no go so I was able to stir to the shoulder and park, turned the key off. Sat there for about 30-60 seconds and the truck started up and I was able to drive off. [added] Forgot to mention, there was no check engine lights or anything, when I drove off, it was as though nothing happened. Not sure if it matters but temps out here was about 105 degrees and I was blasting the AC (which seems to take longer now to cool things down a bit).
I've had the truck since '04 and the second owner, been pretty descent with fluid changes and such, in fact was on my way for quick oil change when this happened. The tech there thought it could be either the alternator (battery is roughly 6 months new) or the ECM.
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My '02 F150 180k X-cab with the 5.4L is leaking coolant when it is shut off. Its just pouring right out.It looks like it's coming from top of the trans and around the firewall area. I had to replace a drain plug already.. the one behind starter ..its not leaking.
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2001 F150 ... I'm having trouble with my truck starting after its been running for awhile and then I shut it off.... I have to let it sit for a few min. Before I can crank it again and it will start. I was driving down the road and it just died on me the other day that's what started all this...
The fuel pump and filter was already replaced and I just replaced the cam and crank sensors ... but its still acting up...... I'm not sure where to turn next... No check engine light ..... I have a scan tool and checked for soft codes but nothing.
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