Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Constant Engine Rattle - Sputters At Cold Start
Feb 13, 2012
I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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I bought a 97 4.0 SOHC about 2 weeks ago with 85k miles on it. I noticed a slight rattle coming from the engine after I got home. I bought it from an individual who I don't think was aware of the problem. I did some investigating on FTE and talked to a friend who has a 98 that locked up at 40k with timing chain problems. After listening to the engine and reading posts I determined it was either the tensioner and the chain guides or both.
I took it to my local dealer to have them check it out. I told him I thought it was 1 or both of these problems. And was aware of the Owner Notification Programs for these issues. And that the tensioner ONP 00M12 was expired but not the guide ONP 01MO1. He said it sounds like the tensioner, and that 99% of the time that was the problem. I said go ahead and check it out, but while your in there could you look at the guides and replace them if they need it since they are covered. He said " They will look at them and replace them if the need it". They ended up just replacing the top tensioner.
I got the vehicle out the next day and 50% of the noise was gone, but a rattle persisted. I took it back and pointed this out, their mechanic said it sounded like it could be the catalytic converter. but they would have to listen more closely to determine where the sound was coming from. Of course my suspicion is and was the chain guides all along. So this morning he called me and said it is a timing chain area noise, but they don't think it is the guides they think it is the middle tensioner. Big surprise, they don't think it is the guides, so I said go ahead and spend 5.5 hrs of labor to tear it down and see what the problem is. He said if it turns out to be the guides it is covered under the ONP. But if its the bottom tensioner "bend over" actually he didn't say that last part, I was paraphrasing.
So here we are, grabbing my ankles waiting for word on the cause. I told him when they get it torn down I want to come down there and physically inspect the problem, he was fine with that. Here is my deal regardless of the problem, they should not have charged me for the original 5 hrs of labor to replace the top tensioner, if that did not fix the entire problem, they could have replaced that one when they reassembled the engine after checking out the guides. And not only that but why are they so resistant to say it is the guides, Ford is the one who foots the bill. Not only that but if it is the middle tensioner as well how do they know the guides are not contributing to the sound, and if so they should be covered and they should only charge me for the parts for the 2 tensioners.
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I own a 2004 Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition with 182,000 on the clock that has developed a very annoying engine rattle. The rattle started just shortly after having some service done on the truck. I had the P/S, Brake, Transmission and Rear diff fluids replaced. I also had the A/C system evacuated and recharged along with replacing the A/C manifold line and rack and pinion. The noise is most noticeable at first start and goes away when driving.
I took it to Ford and they said that the timing belt tensioners were bad so they were replaced, but the noise was still there. Then they replaced the serpentine belt tensioner and pulley, but again noise is still there. I refused to have Ford do any more work since I had already been charged almost $1500 for repairs and the problem was not fixed. They said the next thing would be the balance shaft or rebuild the engine. The truck runs fine, smooth and does not shake at idle. It just has this awful noise.
Here is a video of the noise : [URL] ......
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I'm fixing my mother's Ford Explorer 2000 it turns over but won't start it sputters and everyone smile you hear what sounds like a small backfire.
it seems to be getting good spark I can get it to start for a little while and run on either. So I'm assuming the plugs and wires are working well they look good. When I tested the spark it looks very good.
ECM fuses look good able to use a scanner Jump fuel relay and can hear pump run I made sure there is gas in the gas tank
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I have a 1999 Explorer with a 4.0 engine and when it gets cold it has trouble starting. It will click for a while and then start, but when it is warm I have no problem starting it.
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Just bought a used 04 XLE Camry for daughter--60K miles. 4 cylinder engine. Engine sounded great when test drove. She has had it for 2 weeks, the engine now rattles badly upon first cold start of the day. Clears up almost immediately (maybe 3-4 seconds). Shut down and restart-no problem--only when cold (or has been sitting for more than a couple of hrs.) I'm thinking it is the valve lifters out of oil, but don't know. And what was the repair?(engine oil was just changed(Synth blend--5W-30Wt.))
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I have a 2002 Explorer with 147K that makes a chirping sound when I start it and the engine is cold. So far I have replaced the serpentine tension-er and the water pump. After about 10 minutes of running the noise stops. With the belt off the idler pulley spins freely. It does have the original power steering pump.
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I have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
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I purchased my first Ford back in 2006 it was a 1999 Explorer Sport. Gave me a long line of problems from suspension to head gasket repair to rear main seal repair to ANOTHER head gasket repair. But sure enough, like I'm sure many of you have, I fell in love with her. She could do no wrong. Even now that I got her off the road she is still my baby. Now my recently purchased 2000 Explorer XLS which I've only had for about 5 months just yesterday started doing a strange hesitation. Perhaps a misfire. My initial instinct was dirty fuel injectors that hopefully if I'm lucky will be the easiest fix in Ford history. Another hypothesis is a bad plug. Either way, in my mind, that's best case scenario. I have yet to take it in and plan on buying some injector cleaner later on today. When I'm idling there's no problem. It's as soon I step on the gas that I feel the hesitation. Almost like a constant hiccup.
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I have a 2013 Azera w/technology package, it has 20,500 miles. I absolutely love the car, have had no issues with it. However, every time the car is started with a cold engine, either from sitting overnight, or sitting an hour when it's very cold outside (20's or 30'sF), there is a loud rattle like something is very loose or I've described it like it sounds like someone threw a bag of bolts in the engine for about 3-4 seconds. Then it runs like a normal engine. I've had it in the shop twice, the 2nd time they replaced the fuel rail injector assembly and all the injectors due to such a heavy carbon buildup in the cylinders. It still rattles horribly. It's an embarrassment to start, it sounds horrible and doesn't sound like the normal startup noise. This concerns me of the longevity of the engine. I have video of the start up noise even.
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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Recently bought 2002 Camry 2.4 .... Engine has a cold start rattle in the top passenger side. The noise stops after the engine heats up in about 10 minutes. I've changed the intake manifold.... Did not work. Looking for the OCV VALVE FILTER but cannot find it ....
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I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. A few months ago the Short Block was replaced because the engine was noisy. Now it started to do that noise, if I remember it's a little bit similar : Youtube video: [URL] .... Or search youtube for: Hyundai elantra 2012 engine rattle noise
It rattled very loud for 1 or 2 seconds on a cold start the other day too. Noise appears to be coming from the engine. It does it pretty much all the time, at idling, when I accelerate it accelerates too and when I slow down it kinds of do too slowly. Need another new short block or is it something else like the timing chain or a bearing?
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So my new problem is cold engine starts If it's mildly cold out like 30-40 F or 0-10C and has been sitting awhile the car won't start on the first couple of tries. It tries to start but I guess chokes/sputters out like its not getting enough gas. Warm engine it starts instantly.
I put a bottle of gumout regane fuel system cleaner in the tank hoping its a dirty fuel system seeing it feels like it chokes out on gas during the cold start. I'm about half way done that tank and was going to add another bottle on the next tank.
I'm worried about the cold winter approaching and found out issue 8001 today that the oil pan heater is ripped off with broken wires and missing cover.
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Car spits and sputters when engine is cold. When engine is warm car runs fine. I believe that my cold start injector or my cold start injector time switch is bad. 7MGE Toyota Supra ....
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I've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
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I have a 97 chevy silverado with a 305 v8. She wont start!! The truck sat for a year then i got it the other day. We replaced the sparkplugs and put new gas in the truck. The truck has spark, but it wont run. It pops and sputters when you put starting fluid in the intake but wont run. The old plugs some were wet and some weren't. All were black. I checked the fuel system, the pump runs as it should, and I checked the access valve and it has tons of fuel pressure. But wont run. There are no codes. Is it the distributor? Or is it the fuel pressure regulator?
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I'm posting for my brother who owns this Explorer 4.0 Valve rattle. As he went to lunch yesterday, he noticed his Explorer started running odd. Wanted to die a few times, lost power. He made it back to work fine, but on his way home it developed a harsh rattle from the top of the engine. While driving, he thought it was an exhaust leak. Got out of the vehicle when he got home and realized it was something worse.
When I made it to his house to look at it, the engine was still warm and the rattle was still there. Changed the oil with a Motorcraft filter (had a Fram on it before.) Started it and it sounded fine for about 20 seconds, then the rattle slowly came back. I've read a lot about the timing chain and tensioner issues, but not sure if this is it or not.
Most of those issues sounded RPM specific, where once this starts rattling, it's always rattling. It also seems to lack power and has a random misfire. I started and stopped it in 30 second intervals this morning and it got to the point where I would have to hold the accelerator to the floor in order for it to start. Where should I start?
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
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I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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