Ford - Explorer :: 1997 4x4 - No Running - Shudder In Rear Tire - Front Never Spin?
Apr 6, 2013
My Explorer is a 1997 with the control trac 4x4 system. It's only purpose in life at the moment is to plow snow and its been doing that quite well. I typically leave it in 4lo all the time. Every once in a while, I will switch it to the other modes to ensure they are all working.
Today I was plowing and it looks like I'm getting nothing, or next to nothing to the front wheels. There is some shudder if the rear tires begin to spin, but the front never spin, or lock up. I can feel/hear the transfer case shift when I change modes between auto/4hi/4lo as I usually do, but the front wheels just are not doing their job. All three modes are not driving the front wheels.
The transmission was rebuilt a few years ago, and it's shifting fine. I'm suspecting the transfer case. Only my OD light is flashing, but it only does that once in a blue moon. I plugged my code reader in and it could not read those codes. I was able to clear the light though.
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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1999 f150 4x4 reg cab V6 standard, 4x4 shifter on the floor, pull it into high light comes on, front diff actuator goes in, put in 1st only back tires spin, put in reverse front and back spin (I was on a patch of icy road) I can hear a slight clicking noise maybe when in forward gear but its very quiet so could be normal? When I am underneath everything seems to be working and engaged.
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I own a 2003 Explorer, 4.0 v6, w/93k. When turning either direction from a stop I get a shudder from the rear end. Ford has issue tsb # 17717 but I cannot fix the fix, only a description of the problem. Where can I find a fix I wondered?
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I have a 1999 F-150, 4.2L V6 with 206,000 miles that recently developed a rear-end shudder/vibration. According to my door jam axle code (27) and the axle tag (3 37), I have what appears to be a conventional rear differential, even though most of my research would indicate this rear-end is for the F-250. In any case, and based on other online research, I changed the differential oil with a 75W-140 synthetic and added 4oz of a friction modifier. Now the vibration appears to be worse. It primarily vibrates when taking off from a stop, whether turning or not.
I have felt the vibration at speeds up to 60mph, but it is more noticeable at lower speeds. The vibration also seems to diminish after driving the truck for longer periods of time, particularly if at highway speeds. In other words, when I drive to and from work, which is about 30 minutes each way of mostly highway, the vibration is barely noticeable once I exit the highway and slow back down to 35-40mph. When feeling the vibration, if I decelerate, the vibration immediately ceases, but starts again when I accelerate. It's not as noticeable if I accelerate harder, but I generally don't do that. The gears inside the differential didn't have any noticeable wear, chips or slop/play. What may be plaguing my usual trouble-free F150?
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2004 Ford Explorer4.0140k miles... For about 3 weeks or so i have been having this squeaking noise similar to the noise you hear when your breaks are worn out and you need to replace them. It sounds like it is coming from the right rear tire, i have changed all breaks all the way around and today i finally changed the rear passenger caliper thinking that it was causing the noise but it is still there. I am also driving on my spare which happens to be the same size as my regular tires it just does not have the rim on it.
I also found out that prior to changing the rear passenger tire it was wobbling and i did not know till a friend pointed it out, the rim does have a really minor dent but i am not sure if that was causing it to wobble or if the wobble is what caused the noises to appear. I have been driving the car for about 3 months and it started 3 weeks ago. There is also a clicking noise that i hear but i cant point out if it is coming from that side of the car, i can only hear it when i am driving slow.
Also the squeaking comes and goes, it is not always there and when it is there and i apply the breaks it is still there. I have done some research and a lot of people have a similar problem but the noise will go away when they finally apply the breaks, my noise still remains even when breaks are applied. What it can be, i did a little more research and now i am thinking it can be the ujoints on the driveshaft?
Here are a few pics of the dent i was talking about on the tire, could this minor dent cause the tire to wobble.....
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On this '97 explorer, the fan is running, but no air out the defrost, ac, or heat vents no matter what position the switch is in. I tried to read the sticky on the air door, but the link is broken.
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I have a 2004 Ford Explorer V8 4 wheel drive. Yesterday I was on the way home from a 2 hour drive and was on the expressway at a complete stop on a downhill grade. When I hit the gas, the car started lurching - it would shoot forward, then slow down, then shoot forward, then slow down.
I got the car to the side of the road and called a tow truck. Just to test - while I was waiting for the truck I put the car in neutral and even though I was on a steep downhill grade, it wouldn't roll at all. When I put it in drive - it wouldn't go initially until I had to put a decent amount of pressure on the gas pedal. I reminded me a being at a speed bump that you couldn't idle over and have to give the car some gas to power it up over the bump.
When the tow truck got there - I watched the driver drive the Explorer up onto the bed of the tow truck. What I noticed was this:
The left front tire was completely locked when he was hitting the gas. But when he gave it enough gas, the right tire that was working would push the car forward while the left tire remained locked creating friction on the pavement but the car was still moving forward from the other wheel.
Then after 3 or 4 feet - the left tire would unlock/release and start to rotate - causing the car to suddenly lurch forward. But then after another few few it would lock again. Then release again.
The thing I found odd was that when the driver later reversed the car down off the truck - the left front wheel worked just fine. So the car works perfectly in reverse, but in drive the left wheel locks then releases then locks then releases.
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 5.0, I have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, I drive the truck to work in the mornings (12miles) and it is fine. We live on a mountain and on the way home after getting to the top of the mountain the temperature gauge goes past middle and nears the red but does not overheat completely. Once home I open the hood and the overflow is steaming or sometimes boiling, and I have checked thermostat again to make sure and it is operating normal, I have been told fan clutch, water pump, and I don't want to just throw money at guesses.
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My son ran off the road in a neighborhood and hit some large rocks along side the street. It punctured the front right side and obvioulsly damaged the steering because now it drives terribly and instead of the steering wheel handles being side to side it is 90 degrees perpendicular. The service station I use said it has a bent frame and will need to be taken to a body shop. Will the cost to fix it be worth it especially due to its age?
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I have smoke coming out of rear passenger tire. Also it's making noise like rubbing sound, sometimes it squeaks loud when taking off and coming to a stop. How to fix and what to look for?
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So i recently bought this 2002 honda civic, and seeing as the owner said it only needed a new windshield, rear strut, rear brakes, and new front tires, it wasn't a bad deal. I never got time to fix anything before I went on vacation for 2 weeks. It's been parked in the garage the entire time I was away, but when i went to start it up and pull it out it wouldn't move. It started perfectly fine, i took the E-brake off, but it wouldn't move unless I revved it to around 4-5k rpm, and even then it wouldn't go more than an inch.
So I put it in neutral to see if i could push it. it only moved when i got it rocking pretty good, but that's when i noticed the right rear tire had skidded the whole way. When i first got it i did notice a slight grinding type sound coming from the rear every time the car moved, but I didn't pay too much attention to it seeing as the car wasn't leaving the driveway for awhile anyway. Well now its permanently stuck until i find a solution.
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6cyl, 4L, 33K miles. When its started up, the message "Tire Sensor Fault" appears along with the low tire icon flashing (steady light after ~30 seconds). I can then press the reset button on my dash to clear the message. However, the tire light icon stays lit. I've checked and re-checked the tire pressure in all the tires (spare included) and I'm right at the recommended 32-34 psi on all the tires. No signs of leaks at all. I'm assuming one (or more) of the tire pressure sensors have gone bad and there's no way for a garage (or myself) to identify which one or repair this. Should I assume a trip to the dreaded dealer for this problem ???
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I can't get the upper rear bolt out the fuel lines are in the way and I have tried wiggling the arm in every direction possible. any tricks?
97 V8 AWD.
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I need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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Checked fuses, still can't find short or reason I don't have running lights. Which fuse the running lights operate on, maybe I can trace it backwards from fuse box.
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Wondering what difference in tire pressure are you running front to rear. I have a 1999 CC LB 4x4 with a v10 with 180k on it and have always had to run lower on the rear with a empty bed. Most of the time I'm empty. If I don't the rear centers wear a lot quicker.
I ran KO's most of those miles and recently switch to Geolanders. The tires are 315x75x16. BTW the geolanders are doing great. A better rain tire, smoother and much more quiet. 6k on them so far and very little wear. Time will tell, I would get 55-60k out of the KO's.
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My wife's Explorer 4x4 has a noise in the front at around 100km/h. It is not detectable below 90km/h. Its not noticeable from a standstill until around 100, then you hear it a little. I find I can make it more noticeable if I vary my speed from 110 to 105 up and down, then its easier to hear. Once you get below 90 km/h you cant hear it at all.
I have a broken leg right now, and I normally do ALL my own work so I'm a little-limited mobility wise at the moment.
I'm suspecting a wheel bearing. I put the Explorer in the garage and my son jack up both wheels on the drivers side. I started the engine and SLOWLY accelerated up through the gears to 100. I know the hazards with this as I've done it with other vehicles, but this was the first 4x4. Then we jacked up the passenger side (after lowering the drivers side) and did the same thing. I could slightly hear/feel the rumble when the passenger side was jacked up.
I did drive the vehicle on my outdoor ramp/pit so I could use my crutches and get underneath to have a look. I grabbed the cv axles and they feel solid. The propeller shaft was replaced last year, and the cv axles look brand new. (bought the vehicle off a friend two years ago.).
So, are my suspicions correct, is it the pass. side wheel bearing? The Explorer has 294000kms. Never did test it on corners as I didn't want to swerve back and forth on the highway with the amount of traffic.
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I have a 1997 F250 Light Duty with a 5.4L and 4 wheel drive, 216,000 miles. Last year one of my front tire chains broke and ripped the ABS wire. I have soldered them back together and no longer have the ABS light illuminated in the dash. However, when I apply the brakes at speeds slower than 25 mph, the ABS pulses. Over 25 mph the brakes work as they should until almost stopped and then they pulse.
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I Just bought a 1997 Ford Explorer V6 4WD and I noticed after the I bought the truck that the whole rear suspension (Shocks) were completely destroyed. I failed to notice this during inspection of the car because it was parked very close to a wall so i was unable to see the area. Now I do know a bit a about cars but I no professional, It seems as if this whole section of the car just rotted out which is surprising because the rest of the car seemed OK. So now my question what do I need to buy in order to fix this I am not sure it seems like there is some sort of cross member that bolts onto the frame that connects the two rear shocks. What it looks like?
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