Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Keys Won't Turn Any Of The Lock Cylinders - Battery Dead?
Feb 16, 2013
SO the inlaws have I believe a 1996 Explorer XL-not too sure of year-that they will let us use long term if we get it running. Anyway problem is I have the keys, the keys wont turn any of the lock cylinders. I have dumped about a half can of both WD-40 and PB Blaster into all of em and nothing. It has been sitting out back for a year and a half so the battery is so dead. The driver and passenger windows are down about a quarter inch? I want to get in the car without spending any $$ as we will be having twins soon and a free car is too good to pass up.
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I have locked my keys in truck and the battery is dead. How do I get either the door or the hood open. 2005 super crew king ranch....
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Reviving my car after long months of long winter storage and I cannot get the door unlocked. I know the battery is dead so the remote won't work, but I cannot even unlock the door with the key, twisting it back and forth and nothing happens. I am just trying to get under the hood so i can jump the car, but no way to unlock the door. It is a 2002 SC430 , is the key supposed to work ? Or does the car need battery for the key to twist and unlock the door?
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My power windows and door lock controls on all doors have stopped working. No blown fuses and the local parts who says that locks and windows don't run on the same relay? I don't have a garage and cant really secure my vehicle?
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I have a '96 4Runner (4WD V6 SR5) with 215k miles which had been running great until I parked it at work for a week & a half business trip and came back to a dead battery. I jump started it this morning and it ran fine until I disconnected the jumper cables, at which point it immediately started running rough (hesitating, almost dying) and the windshield wipers went to the high setting (they weren't on before) and all the lights on the instrument panel were on (check eng, etc.).
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I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 152k miles on it. Recently replaced battery. All of sudden yesterday, engine will turn over and try to run but sputters out and dies after about 30 seconds. Cannot maintain idle on it, and none of the gauges rise when you turn on the ignition, so that you cannot see the RPMs and the gas gauge reads empty even though I filled it up two days ago. Tried to start it today and saw the same problem but with no sputtering, engine dies within seconds now.
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I think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
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Did the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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2003 Explorer Sport, 4X4, keyless entry. Bought the truck brand new but never had occasion to use the keys in the door and tailgate locks. Tried them this week and they did not work the locks. I first thought that the locks were frozen. Not the case. Stopped by the dealer and he suggested spraying WD40 in the locks. Didn't work. Got a new 'blank' cut by the dealer in case the key was worn, didn't work. What might be the issue? I was thinking that the wrong cylinders were put in the truck on the assembly line. I have a key fob remote and keyless entry but it would be nice if the key unlocked the doors in an emergency.
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Bought this car, drove it home, when I went to restart it nothing happened. Put in a new battery and still nothing. The starter will arc with a screwdriver but not engage. All the lights and and electrical work so I am thinking its either the neutral safety or the ignition. Is there a way to figure out which one it is with out buying both of them?
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In temperatures around Zero when I put the key in dash light come on everything seems fine when try to start the engine it doesn't crank or turn over. The lights don't dim and it doesn't seem like a dead battery, just to be sure I bought a new battery and I still have the same problem.
It will start and run fine in the afternoon when it's a few degrees warmer but late night/early morning it's completely unreliable. The battery is fine, it's like there is something not allowing to the car to turn over.
The dashboard alarm light is on constant when I'm trying to start it.
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I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
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So I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot which came with 2 keys. The main key has a remote battery (which is dead) and a spare key. Because the battery is dead, we must manually unlock the car door each time we get in. A month ago or so I noticed that the main key was having trouble going in the driver's side door. It would go about half way in and jam. I would try 5-10 times and then eventually it'd go in and turn fine. Sometimes I'd go to the passenger door where it would open with no problem.
We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.
Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..
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I haven't ever read the manual for my car. But the doors automatically lock when keys are out of ignition. most of the time, that is.
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Got the following problem with my 2004:
1. Unlocked ny car this morning by use of my remote key and the alarm went off.
2. Got the alarm turned off by locking and unlocking my car several times by use of my remote keys
3. Put the car in reverse and took out of the garage. Parked the car and put the gear stick in P position. The knob on the left side of the gear stick remained in the "in" position where one usually can move the gear stick up and down between the gears.
4. However, I was not able to move the gear stick, and the main display said something in German like "Call the workshop".
5. Locked the car bye use of one of my three remote keys.
6. Later, after trying to solve the gear stick problem by moving the knob and the gear stick in several ways I was not able to lock the car with any of my remote keys. No messages were displayed.
7. I was only able to manually lock the door where I used my key.
The knob on the gear stick is showing scratch marks so someone has tried to do something to it earlier. I have owned the car since easter this year and has not experienced this problem earlier.
The battery on the left side of the car is new, and the batteries were charged for 12 hours two weeks ago. The car has not been driven much since easter, and has only been taken in and out of the garage four times during the last three weeks without being driven.
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Picked up a super nice 03' as is with a no start. It cranks over nice and smooth, sounds like it has proper compression, and has proper fuel pressure. Tried spraying either in it and it will almost catch.
Tried putting a known good coil pack on it, no dice. Usually when other engine slip timing chains, it will crank rough, like a few cylinders are zero. This is not the case.
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I have an '07 ES350. I was riding my motorcycle today and the key to my Lexus fell out of my pocket at 140mph. I recovered it to find that it popped semi-open. The key battery had become loose and damaged. The microchip looks just fine, as well as the key fob itself. I replaced the key battery and the key was not detected by the car. I used the procedure to start the car by holding the fob up close to the start button. It worked just fine, but the key fob will no longer lock and unlock the car.
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I have a 2012 camry SE. I had it for about 10 months now. For some reason my car won't start (no clicking noise) and I couldn't remove my keys at all. My keys were stuck and car wont turn on at all. I was at a gas station and the workers couldn't figure out what was wrong. They removed the negative side on the battery so I could remove my keys and it worked. But when they reconnected my battery, I tried to start it again and same thing happened. Car won't start and key was stuck again. Lights were working so I ha my emergency lights on.
I'm not a car guy so I have no clue of what happened. The funny thing is when my car was stuck I had to get it pushed because I was blocking other cars from entering the gas station. It wasn't even on neutral and the workers could push my car easily? Also the steering wheel was really hard to turn. Anyways after about 30 min I went back in my car and tried to start it and it worked! So I'm confused as heck. What could of caused this?!
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I drive a 99 s/w 2 and this mourning when I arrived at work I got out of the vehicle and the bell that chimes when you leave the headlights on or the key in the ignition the warning chime would not turn off even though the keys were out of the ignition and the headlights were off, however it stops chiming when you shut the door.
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I drive a 2000 Saturn S-series (SW) that has a lot of miles on it, and has been giving me consistent trouble lately--replaced the catalytic converter, transmission work, belts, coolant issues, you name it. That said, up until recently I would have referred to it as an extremely reliable car. The piles of money I've now put into it make me less likely to call it this. So, my question is twofold: a specific question and a general is-this-the-end question.
As of last night, my car has been having trouble shutting completely off. I am able to turn the key and take it out of the ignition, and the car shuts off--mostly. Something is still on (a fan, part of the engine?) and I have to turn the car on and off many times until it shuts off completely. Last night I had to drive it around the block before it would shut off. I took it to the mechanic today for a separate issue--hemorrhaging coolant--and asked them to look at the shutting off issue.
Of course, when they looked at it, my car suddenly shut off fine. They said that it probably has to do with the ignition switch, and that I'll need to take it to the dealer because my key is so old they can't recreate it from my old beaten up key from 14 years ago. (I'm not exactly sure what they have to recreate, or how an ignition switch works.) Is it time to chuck this car? Or is an ignition switch not a big deal?
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