My brothers window won't work from any of the switches and the locks won't work they only work from the driver side no window action though from either side, checked the fuse and relay but nothing.... 1996 Ford Escape 4wd....
View 1 RepliesOk, about a month ago my drivers door power window just ceased to work. (Sadly in the lowered position) I pulled the panel off, and examined the switch housing. By removing the terminals from a window that worked, and putting them in the drivers terminal, I determined that the regulator/motor assembly was bad. Fast forward to today, after wrestling with some issues, the NEW regulator/motor are installed. But here's the kicker, NO CHANGE!!! Still wont work!!! The fuse/CB is good, all other windows work. The switch test good when voltmeter applied...so now I'm stumped.
Its a 1994 explorer...
White 1997 Explorer XLT 4 door 4x4 4.0 sohc 220,000 miles. The power windows and locks don't work. I've tried all of them in the whole car and nothing. Replaced all fuses at the inside panel and replaced all fuses and relays under the hood. Replaced master control switch on the drivers side and still nothing.
View 1 RepliesI just recently replaced the driver side 4-button window switch with one from AARodriguez (FixmyVW.com) on my 2001 MKIV Golf. The new switch had been working fine, but over the last few months, the back windows intermittently wouldn't roll down. It was a gradual process that started when I realized that the windows would actually start to roll back DOWN when I was rolling them UP, or was it vice versa... regardless, it was backwards, and I would have to do it a few times to get it to work properly.
Now, the windows won't roll down at all using the driver's switch, but I do hear a click in the back doors as though some connection is being made. The windows just won't budge. The switches on the back doors work flawlessly, so I don't think it's the motors. The switches for the front windows on the new 4-button switch work fine. There's always a possibility I got a bum switch, or that this one went out, I suppose.
How to get into that bundle of wires going between the drivers door and body for a 2002 Sport Trac? I have a break in the wire that feeds 12v to the passenger windows. If I push the bundle backward the windows work. The flexible rubber jacket goes into a plastic housing and I'm not sure if I need to pull off the door panel and un-hook or unscrew it. Is there a connector inside that plastic thing?
View 2 RepliesMy power windows and door lock controls on all doors have stopped working. No blown fuses and the local parts who says that locks and windows don't run on the same relay? I don't have a garage and cant really secure my vehicle?
View 3 RepliesLately I've been having issues with my windows, door locks and power mirrors not working. Here are the symptoms;
What works;
Driver window Sunroof Key fob unlock/lock (Also all of the doors unlock when I open the door)
What does NOT work;
All passenger windows (they were working intermittently before but now none of them work) Door locks from any panel (Sometimes I can unlock the doors but can never lock them) Side view mirror controls
Seems like it could be a faulty ecu. Plan on removing the door this weekend to inspect everything.
Odd thing happened this evening, I took the truck for a short drive, rolled down the drivers power window, and then needed to turn on the map light, but realized it didn't work, same with the radio. The clock on the radio works, and now none of the window switches do anything.. I tested every fuse under the dash, even swapped around all of the relays that have the same part number, to no avail.. Is there something simple I'm missing that is a common problem with these trucks? I'd hate to have to leave my window down for awhile till I figure it out on my own..
View 14 RepliesThe indicator lights stopped working on the switches and the dealer replaced a fuse and they worked again. Now they are out again and it seems like the heater on the drivers side is on the low setting for random intervals.
View 3 Replies2009 Prius all windows stopped working except the drivers window.I have checked fuses,window locks,etc...I heard that the problem is the "bcm" which is located under the drivers seat. One window was half way down when it stopped working so I took the door panel off and ran wires from my laptop power supply and ran it up. I am wondering if i could run a wire from the battery with the correct fuse on it to each window and bypass this '"bcm" thing altogether.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 Bonneville. Just recently the doors will lock and unlock on their own. The controls(windows/mirror) and lock on the drivers side works intermittently. The window and locks on the passenger side work correctly. At least I haven't found a time they don't work. Coincidentally, things started acting up after the drivers side widow was left open and a little rain came in. I have removed the mirror/window control panel from the drivers side, unplugged the connector, cleaned and put electrical grease on the contacts.. I did the same thing with another connector I could reach inside the door panel.
View 3 RepliesI can unlock the door(s) of my 98 Explorer using the key remote and door switches but locking them with the key remote and door switches no longer work. What could it be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
My locks on the driver's door do not work when the vehicle is parked. The locks work find from the other doors, the keypad and the remote. Also door ajar light comes on. When the vehicle is moving the locks work fine.
I replace the lock switch, but it didn't make any difference. I loosen the three screws holding the mechanish sprayed with lots to WD40 and moved the mechanism around a little, it worked a couple of times, but then back to nothing.
Thinking about replacing the door ajar switch, but not sure of the relationship to the lock.
Replaced the door lock switch and all the other door lock switches in the car work, as does the one on the keyfob. How to figure out what's going on?
View 2 Replies2001 Sport trac ... Only the driver door unlocks, front passenger and both back doors will not unlock. I have a Fob and both unlock switches will only unlock driver door. All 3 will lock all the doors but only the driver door unlocks
View 7 RepliesTroubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
View 5 RepliesRecently I was driving down the road in my 99 B5 1.8T AUTO and my power windows stopped working from all the interior switches. First thing I did was get out of the car and use the key to roll them down, which worked fine. Here is what I have tried/looked into so far:
- All fuses are fine except #14 which i replaced
- Swapped the master control switch in the drivers door
- Checked the wire harness under driver carpet and the ground wire for frays or breaks
- Checked the CCM connectors and board for anything burnt or damaged
I will also add that the locks work from the door switches and the power mirrors don't work as well.
So the window switches and hatch release switch have decided they want to stop working. Along with actually locking my car from the inside or keyfob. I have checked all the fuses and the wiring looks to be intact. The hatch release switch doesn't work but the fuel door switch Does work. The passenger side window switch also isn't working and of course both Windows are down.
View 6 RepliesI've been having some troubles with my 2009 Hyundai sonata GLS 100k 4 cyl. Its quite an odd issue I've been having with my power windows. It seems that the switches or relays stop working intermittently however it does it in an odd fashion. First the drivers master switch works for all but sometimes not for the front passenger up nor down . The front passenger switch/relay does not work at times, up nor down, the rear passenger does not go up at all and the rear driver switch does not go down at all. I can't for the life of me fathom what might actually be the issue other than, all the switches breaking at the same time(due to power surge ?) Another theory I have is that is that my passengers and I sometimes place cellphones in the door handle and may have somehow damaged the switch ? I know these are some whacky conjectures but that I can think of.
View 9 RepliesJust picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
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