Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Sounds Like Tires With Aggressive Tread Roar
Jul 11, 2012
My practically new 1996 Explorer, 4wd, 4.0 with only 162,000 miles has developed what sounds like tires with agressive tread roar. The tires are Goodyear Wrangler RT/S with maybe 20,000 miles on them. I have had tie rods, upper and lower, shocks.The CV boots are like new. Front end was aligned when front end work was done. Tire wear pattern is normal.
Tires rotated last week (I hoped that would stop the roar, no affect). Transfer case and front diff. show no signs of lube leak. I am at the end of my wits as to what can cause the roar. At 30 MPH I have to turn up the volume on the radio to hear, at 60 the roar fades. A slight turn to the right on the steering wheel and the noise stops.
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Proud new owner of a 2001 Excursion with 7.3. The gentleman I bought the X from had four Michelin LTX M/S2's. 285/75/R16. Looks like they had plenty of tread left so I was happy, until I got home and noticed a large slice in the side wall of the right rear.( approx 2" long and 1/4"deep.). I will be towing a 8000 lb trailer with three kids. Went to big tire store and they replaced one tire. They said it would be fine with different depth. (Exact same tire). When I got home I looked at tread, has noticeable difference in depth. Looks like 3.5MM diff from what I measured. My question is this, will this be ok or will this possible damage the rear end having slightly diff overall size?
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Background of the car, had a leak in my power steering pump that I had patched, and had the front wheel bearings replaced. whenever I get to about 40 mph, the tires sound quite loud, however they quiet around 45 and don't get loud again until about 65. However, when I go left around a bend the noise disappears. Also, maybe unrelated sometimes when I back up and then put it into drive, the car stalls out. I'm curious if this issue just means that I need to replace my power steering pump or if it might be something else? It's a 2005 ford Explorer.
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My husband had my tires replaced this week. I drive a 2008 Ford Explorer.The car has been running fine - no problems what so ever. Now there is a sound when I turn or go quite slowly. We live on a street that is 25mph so we go slowly to start. I hear the sound while going straight at slower speeds, but also when turning - almost at full lock. It is difficult to describe the sound - not grinding and not screeching. Its almost as if I turned the wheel too far. The sound when running straight is lower maybe rubbing. The sound seems to be coming from the right side of the car. I can also feel the sound, but it isn't a strong vibration. My husband drove the car and said he felt nothing (of course - just like TV repair man syndrome). All 4 tires were replaced. Hubby checked the nuts - says they were alright.
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2007 Ford Explorer, 51,000 gentle miles...
Stopped at a light and suddenly it sounded like fireworks were exploding overhead! The car was acting completely normal.
Light turned, about 15 minutes to ride home, just heard an occasional pop here and there.
Got home. Turned off the car and walked up the driveway. Suddenly the popping happened again. Again it was like fireworks going off, or thunder.
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Recently, my Explorer will sound like a cessna first thing in the morning, and then at random times through out the day. Then, the other day, the temp spiked on my wife. She pulled over, and let it sit for a bit, started it back up, and haven't had a problem since with temp. We only hear the sound on acceleration, and I have noticed that my F250 does it sometimes also, but not to the same extent. Is this normal, or a sign that the fan clutch is bad?
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My 2000 Explorer has been having recently a very strange sound coming from the rear area, especially the rear right tire. You can hear a clicking sound from inside... its not a nut, bolt or anything stuck to the tires, its just a clicking sound that seems to come as the tire spins. Any known causes for this? Should I be extra worried?
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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I have a 2005 Explorer XLT with the 4.0L V6 and AdvanceTrac.
I've had a worsening growl in the front end that sounds like it's coming from the front left wheel. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and the sound goes away when I turn the wheel right of center. Center (going straight) or leftward steering, and the noise comes right back.
I changed the wheel bearing today, and there is absolutely no change in symptoms. Turning the CV shaft back and forth by hand, something feels kind of "grindy." It is the same at any point along the shaft, which has me worried that the bad bearing is in the front differential.
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2010 F-150 SuperCrew. The braking is overly aggressive especially at slow speeds. It is most noticable in parking lots when trying to ease into a parking space or just easing up to the curb. I took it back to the dealership and they printed a statement from Ford stating that aggressive brakes are normal and no adjustment should be made. It is annoying to the point my wife does not want to drive the truck. Obviously there have been enough complaints that Ford has a prepared statement.
Otherwise a great driving truck. I test drove two new Sierra SLE Texas Editions and the Ford drove much better. Also the GMC, hesitated everytime you leave from a dead stop.
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Recently had my tire guy replace only my front tires on my 03 Ford Explorer. Drove it on the highway and it felt and sounded like the transmission and drive train were hitting each other. Having him now replace the rears as well. Hopefully, they will now be happy together. Fronts were new rears were worn and different tires. Will the new tires reset everything I screwed up?
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I have a friend who called me today, she has a 1999 Explorer Sport with over 200,000 miles on it. She said she was coming home the other day and as she was pulling into her driveway she heard a clunk then the steering kind of locked up, and it felt like a tire was dragging. She moved the truck later and said that it goes forward and backwards fine but grabs and skids while trying to turn.
She called her local mech, and he thought the diff could have given out on her and is basically acting like a locked diff rather than open.. I think the front axle must have somehow engaged, and is stuck.. So my question is this, how does the front axle on a explorer engage.. I know on Jeeps and Chevys there is an actuator that moves an arm that moves a sleeve that engages both sides of the axle. Does ford work the same way?? It would seem to me that if the truck is going front and back fine the diff itself should be ok?? The xfer case was replaced about 3 years ago.
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My new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
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My 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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Parked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.
Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ? With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?
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On my 96 explorer the speedo most always reads 50mph. It goes to this as soon as you take off. You can be doing 5mph or 75mph and the speedo goes to 50mph and stays there. Everything else on the instrument cluster works. Is there something I can replace on the speedo only or do i need to find a good used instrument cluster?
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1996 Explorer xlt 4.0l ... I ran into this issue a few years ago on a drive up through the mountains. Had the tranny replaced shortly after.
Rebuilt the engine once due to leaking head gasket.
Rebuilt it again 2 months ago due to leaking rear main seal.
Had a new torque converter installed during last engine rebuild, so tranny has been shifting and driving like a dream.
Just drover about 30 miles on highway, all pretty flat. OD light started flashing. I didn't notice ANY change in the way it was driving, sounding, shifting... anything! I know this is some sort of oddball error with this transmission in this vehicle, but i need to know if it requires further investigation.
Also, sometimes upon starting up (i am a pizza deliver, so i often shut it off and start it again 1 minute later) the OD and (i think) the 4x4 light flash at the same time, and my windows wont work for around 15 seconds. I've also noticed that my ABS will sometimes kick in randomly on dry ground during slow stops.
I am not in the mood to just start dropping cash on random sensors or modules or repairs if i can find any solid evidence of an issue (i've been battling an EGR issue for 4 years). I was thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
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I'm replacing the oil pan gasket and the new gasket came with a half moon plastic seal. I noticed that there is a grove in the new engine at the rear of the engine but the old engine does not have this grove. Looking for info about this seal, do I need it or not?
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I have a 96 explorer, and it will just shut off, but restart ok. V6 push rod motor. It has only done it 2 times in the last 2 weeks. One time I was driving slow, been running for about 20-30 min
The other time I had left it run, while I ran in to pick up a pizza, and my wife said it just shut off, had been running around that day , but started it about 15 min earlier. I fill it up before it hits 1/4 tank....
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I recently acquired a 1996 Ford Explorer XLT with a 4.0 OHV engine 62K mile. During vehicle evaluation I found a small coolant leak on coming from the timing cover gasket. I had the timing cover gasket and water pump replaced by a trusted mechanic.
Upon receiving the vehicle from the shop I immediately noticed wildly fluctuating engine temps, going above normal to nearly overheat and then suddenly dropping too cold. This would happen as I am driving at speed or at idle. I replaced the t-stat with a fail-safe type and find that it still does the temperature fluctuation. Called mechanic and he recommended burping the cooling system. Freed air in the system by topping off during cold start and adding coolant till full, and the condition seemed to improve but not fixed.
The fluctuation is much more minimal now, but the engine temp is always lower than normal on the gauge display. Before the initial service, temp gauge read dead center at operating temp always. Now it always runs colder, no matter what. The heater works too, and sometimes it seems to affect the temperature when I engage the heater during driving after warmup, the temp will start fluctuating.
I noticed that the upper radiator hose is much hotter than the lower radiator hose. In this case, after a drive the upper hose had surface temp of 200 F and lower hose had surface temp of 130 F. I have heard of backwards water pump manufacturing and I am beginning to think that is culprit. I can see the flow indicators on the upper hose showing coolant flowing from the radiator to t-stat, but hose surface temps testing suggest that it is operating backwards to me. I do not have the original water pump to comparison.
It became apparent that the fan clutch may be sticking some. When I cold start (30 F ambient) the fan runs at high rpm for several minutes before slowing. Even warm start fan will spin up with engine until second or third gear, then spin down. Is that normal operation?
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