Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Shift Points In RPM Or Speed
Aug 7, 2012
I'm not familiar with my ford truck as yet. What are the happy shift points in rpm or speed? The old VW transporter manual actually listed it. The VW wanted to shift around 2500rpm. The Explorer Looks like
10mph into 2nd
20 mph into 3rd
35 mph into 4th
Its running 3000 rpm at 75mph in 4th
Have not figured out where to go to OD. Seems to have more ooomph at lower rpm than most cars I've had. Why isn't there a red line or light on the tach? What is the higher safe rpms you can use for hills for example? Am I close?
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I just brought a 1996 Explorer 4x4 V6 XLT from a friend thinking it was an easy fix by answers I found of the problem on the net. Even search threw the threads here. Right now my OD light is flashing and the speedometer is bouncing around not detecting the current speed. Also it's not going into gears smoothly. I've replaced the VSS as well as the gear on the end of it. What was the fix for it?
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I have a 2002 3.0 with the 5R44E. I don't like how late it shifts into 5th gear. Is there a way to make it shift into 5th at 45-50 instead of 55? I feel like I have to let off the gas half of the time to make it shift and I don't have a heavy foot. If anything, driving with a light foot seems to make it shift into 5th later.
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,My wife drives a 96 Civic DX Hatchback, 5 Speed. It has about 160,000 miles on it, and she only drives it to work and back (a 15 minute drive via the interstate).
Just yesterday, she told me that the clutch feels 'looser' than normal, for lack of a better term. When it's first started, it's hard for her to get it into first and/or reverse, but once driving, she says the shifting is fine. When she's driving at highway speeds in 5th for a while, then has to get off at her exit, she said it's hard for her to get it back into 1st gear. She says she feels like she has to push the clutch harder than normal to get it back into 1st gear.
I don't know much about manual transmissions, and am hoping for some insight into what the problem(s) may be?
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I have owned my 2008 Elantra for 8 months. I am the second owner and the car has 75K highway miles. I would like to know what the RPM is supposed to be at WOT (getting onto highway).
I have seen it go to almost 7K before shifting. That does not seem normal as redline is 6.5k The trans fluid was changed (by me) with the correct, recommended fluid at 60K. That did not change the characteristics of the high shift points at all. It seems to be just fine with normal city driving, very smooth. A great car overall and I don't want to screw it up as I drive on the highway every day and need WOT to get into 80 MPH traffic.
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I have a 99 f250 with some procomp (325s) that are 12.5 wide with a 6in lift my superchip tuner can change the trannys shift points but I am pretty sure a new gear ratio is needed. I dont do a whole lot of off roading with it its mainly my driving around and highway rig whats a good gear ratio that would work for me
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I had the opportunity to test my mother's 2012 non-GT Elantra automatic. In auto mode when I floored it, it shifted from 1st to 2nd at around 6,000RPM so it shifted too soon. I didn't try it in manual mode.
I have a feeling in manual mode, if I have it set to '1' and I continue to floor it , it won't reduce power at some point (say 6100RPM), but rather will automatically shift up for me?
What are the RPM points that it'll shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when flooring it both in manual and auto mode? I hope there is a way for it to not shift until it reaches it's peak HP at 6,500RPM, if not the 6,750RPM redline at each gear change.
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I have an 07 tiptronic and in Drive "D" the shift points are getting too high for my liking. How do you reset what the transmission has "learned"?
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I started experiencing a delay in my shift points going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Then today I was driving and my automatic transmission wouldn't shift into third gear...the speedometer stuck at 20 mph...and it would rev all the way to red line, but wouldn't shift.
There is no "abnormal" noise coming from the transmission, or from the drive train. I suspect that this has something to do with the shift points and the computer rather than a mechanical problem with the transmission.
I would like to know what it could be before I take it into the dealer to get it diagnosed.
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Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
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Noticed this in the last couple of weeks. On light throttle acceleration the 1-2 shift seems perfectly normal, but 2-3 occurs rather sooner than previously, and 3-4 seems to go through neutral (tach climbs maybe 250-500 rpm for maybe a second or so) rather than a solid shift. Getting on the freeway (WOT), seems normal, and other than light throttle if there's a problem with shift points, I don't notice it.
Maybe an issue with relearn/reprogram? Car is low mileage, adult driven, 16,721 miles of easy highway and local driving.
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My new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
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96 Taurus 3.0 liter OHV will not shift out of Park. I tried the workaround in the owners manual where you take the key out, re-insert it, turn it to the OFF position then start car in neutral, but shifter still will not come out of Park. Fuse #5 is fine, and all my brake lights work. Steering wheel is not locked.
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My 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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Parked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.
Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ? With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?
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On my 96 explorer the speedo most always reads 50mph. It goes to this as soon as you take off. You can be doing 5mph or 75mph and the speedo goes to 50mph and stays there. Everything else on the instrument cluster works. Is there something I can replace on the speedo only or do i need to find a good used instrument cluster?
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1996 Explorer xlt 4.0l ... I ran into this issue a few years ago on a drive up through the mountains. Had the tranny replaced shortly after.
Rebuilt the engine once due to leaking head gasket.
Rebuilt it again 2 months ago due to leaking rear main seal.
Had a new torque converter installed during last engine rebuild, so tranny has been shifting and driving like a dream.
Just drover about 30 miles on highway, all pretty flat. OD light started flashing. I didn't notice ANY change in the way it was driving, sounding, shifting... anything! I know this is some sort of oddball error with this transmission in this vehicle, but i need to know if it requires further investigation.
Also, sometimes upon starting up (i am a pizza deliver, so i often shut it off and start it again 1 minute later) the OD and (i think) the 4x4 light flash at the same time, and my windows wont work for around 15 seconds. I've also noticed that my ABS will sometimes kick in randomly on dry ground during slow stops.
I am not in the mood to just start dropping cash on random sensors or modules or repairs if i can find any solid evidence of an issue (i've been battling an EGR issue for 4 years). I was thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
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I'm replacing the oil pan gasket and the new gasket came with a half moon plastic seal. I noticed that there is a grove in the new engine at the rear of the engine but the old engine does not have this grove. Looking for info about this seal, do I need it or not?
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I have a 96 explorer, and it will just shut off, but restart ok. V6 push rod motor. It has only done it 2 times in the last 2 weeks. One time I was driving slow, been running for about 20-30 min
The other time I had left it run, while I ran in to pick up a pizza, and my wife said it just shut off, had been running around that day , but started it about 15 min earlier. I fill it up before it hits 1/4 tank....
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I recently acquired a 1996 Ford Explorer XLT with a 4.0 OHV engine 62K mile. During vehicle evaluation I found a small coolant leak on coming from the timing cover gasket. I had the timing cover gasket and water pump replaced by a trusted mechanic.
Upon receiving the vehicle from the shop I immediately noticed wildly fluctuating engine temps, going above normal to nearly overheat and then suddenly dropping too cold. This would happen as I am driving at speed or at idle. I replaced the t-stat with a fail-safe type and find that it still does the temperature fluctuation. Called mechanic and he recommended burping the cooling system. Freed air in the system by topping off during cold start and adding coolant till full, and the condition seemed to improve but not fixed.
The fluctuation is much more minimal now, but the engine temp is always lower than normal on the gauge display. Before the initial service, temp gauge read dead center at operating temp always. Now it always runs colder, no matter what. The heater works too, and sometimes it seems to affect the temperature when I engage the heater during driving after warmup, the temp will start fluctuating.
I noticed that the upper radiator hose is much hotter than the lower radiator hose. In this case, after a drive the upper hose had surface temp of 200 F and lower hose had surface temp of 130 F. I have heard of backwards water pump manufacturing and I am beginning to think that is culprit. I can see the flow indicators on the upper hose showing coolant flowing from the radiator to t-stat, but hose surface temps testing suggest that it is operating backwards to me. I do not have the original water pump to comparison.
It became apparent that the fan clutch may be sticking some. When I cold start (30 F ambient) the fan runs at high rpm for several minutes before slowing. Even warm start fan will spin up with engine until second or third gear, then spin down. Is that normal operation?
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