Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Shakes Above 57 Mph - Codes P0401 And P0301
Feb 14, 2012
The Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow
I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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How do I get abs light to go off? I removed and cleaned all sensors, checked all wiring, fuses, and diode. I also used a a scanner, and it tells me there are no error codes. What do i do now?
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2000 Ford Ex 5.4 V8 175K miles
Top of radiator (plastic part) had a small crack and started leaking on drivers side. Fixed with JB Weld. Ran fine for a day. Now I have a bad misfire and codes P0301 and P0302 (Cyl 1 and 2). Cleaned MAF and checked Air Filter. All good. Plugs replaced at dealer less than 20K miles ago.
So I took off Cyl 5 (easiest) and found that the boot is fine but the collar on the boot is done for. Can this cause the issue?
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I have a P0401 code that just fired today. I tried to clear the code, but it came right back on the drive home. There are no drivability symptoms so far; just the CEL.
It looks like the DPFE sensor is part of the EGR valve on this model. Do the 401 code usually means that the EGR needs to be changed, or if there are other common causes of this code that I need to check? The DPFE sensor fixed the same issue on my Escape, but that was an easy $34 and 30 seconds repair. Looking for some 2004+ year owners' experience (I guess 2002 and 2003 models had the DPFE?).
4.0L V6 engine
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My truck, the aforementioned 01 f150 5.4 has been running fine but has had the codes p0401 and p1740. I know what they both mean I just haven't fixed them yet. Today I went to move my truck and it wouldnt start. It turned over fine and would hit some but wouldn't start. Would the tcc solenoid be the cause of that? Also the reason my egr is throwing is because there is a line that is not connected but I have no clue where it connects to... Where is the best place to get diagrams for the egr system.
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I have a 2008 Sports Trac, with a 4.0 SOHC engine ... 165k miles. Last week my check engine (CE) light came on and the code is P0401 ... too little flow on the EGR system. I first tried cleaning the existing valve - but CE light still came on. So I replaced the old EGR valve, cleaned the SS tube from the exhaust manifold back to the EGR valve and the CE light is still on. I have not driven the truck since I replaced with the new valve ... only fired her up in the garage. Is this something that could possibly clear up given a couple of miles?
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Just got a 98 f150 w/ 5.4 4x4 excab. It idles fine but under light accleration. It starts bucking and missing bad, if I step on it, it down shifts and accelerates fine. If I try to maintain one speed it misses bad. It is not throwing any codes right now. The check engine light did come on for like a minute but went back off before I could have it read. I hooked up a scanner just to see if any codes were stored and got p0300 and p0301. I am going to clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks. I hear the rear plug and coils can get water in them causing similar problems.
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2001 Ranger 4-cylinder 2.5L engine, 180K miles. I have been getting PO301 for months now, on and off so it's probably not related to this one.
It started idling awfully a week ago but does not die. Some vacuum problem. I heard the PCV valve elbow is the likely problem but where it is located? A pic or a diagram would be really useful, I did a search but keep getting 4L engine and other makes/years.
It's currently throwing P0171 code. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
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This is what I have done I have 5.4 168,000 on motor . I have codes p0401 p0701 p0704 and some others .I can run truck for about 15min and it starts to lose power .I can't go over 1500 rpm . I have changed egr cleaned throttle body checked for vacum leaks changed the dpfe . new plugs . I have had a misfire code on number 1 but that code has stopped . I have put new fuel filter .I have a cheap scanner I use and it probably won't give me what I want also I changed down stream 02 sensors .
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My 97 F150 4.6 4x4 threw a P0302 and P0401 the other day, I traced the miss fire to a loose injector plug. I reset the codes last weekend, I got in the truck and went to the Dump and to town to pick some stuff up. It threw the EGR code again, so this morning I did a little checking on the EGR I cranked the truck and disconnected the FPR vacuum line and hooked it to the EGR valve and the truck died down but didn't completely die.
Now the green line that went to the EGR valve felt like it had a slight bit of pressure coming from it. Is this normal? I did pull the white feed line from the EGR Regulator and it had good vacuum.
The regulator also makes a humming sound when you cut the truck off. Ill be pulling the alternator this weekend due to it going out last night, while I'm in there if Ive got to pull the throttle body id rather do it while I'm elbow deep in it. So does it sound more like a Clogged Throttle body or a Faulty sensor?
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I have a small problem that has been going on for about the last 6 months. It only appears once in a while, and only when I have parked facing uphill for longer than a day or so. Upon first start (cold) after sitting pointed uphill for a day or two, it starts real rough and sputters a bit. Then when I check codes, I always have a pending P0316 (misfire within the first 1000 revolutions) along with a P0306 or P0301. No dash lights or anything.
Since those two cylinders are at the front of the motor, could it be that the fuel is leaking back down the rail and leaving those two injectors dry? It isn't always both cylinders, sometimes one or the other. If this is the sign of something bigger on the horizon, I would like to have a heads up.
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After changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
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1999 F-250 V10 .... Truck was running perfectly fine except for a random high idle sometimes when put into park but if I gave it a good rev it would drop back down to normal. I assumed it was a dirty IAC or something and figured I'd get around to it later kinda deal. I also had a coolant leak from what I thought was the intake manifold to head gasket on the drivers side right in the front where the upper radiator hose meets the intake manifold so i added water here and there no issues.
One night I need to pull a trailer and didn't have the wiring set up for it in the back so I stopped at advance auto and bought one of those kits that plugs into your brake wiring harness and then plugs into the trailer. I tested it in the parking lot with the trailer and it was all sorts of messed up. My reverse lights stayed on my brake lights didn't work either etc. Turns out it was for the wrong years but plugs matched up coincidentally. I returned the kit and drove home just fine.
Next morning on my way to work truck started misfiring like crazy idle was bouncing all over the place lack of power etc. I took it to advance again after work even though no check engine light came on I still pulled 2 codes. P0300 which is multiple random misfire (no specific bank) and a P0401 which is an EGR Insufficient Flow code. I took it by a local shop I get my oil down at and they told me it was probably the fuel pump that they go bad in these trucks alot.
So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Nothing changed so I thought maybe that coolant leak had dripped down to the plugs or possibly the intake gasket was getting worse and leaking coolant into the air flow ports since it was thought to already be a problem. So i pulled everything off the top and firgured id go through it all why I had it apart. I replaced the intake gasket but noticed when i took it apart that it wasnt the gasket that the head it self had a small pin hole leak in the very front where the coolant fed into below that upper neck that bolts to the intake manifold. I patched it with jb weld/ quick steel/ and rtv. Yes I know it wont last but just for the time being until I figure out the main issue. Replaced the plugs with motocraft plugs checked all my coils for grime and corrosion or what not and they all seemed fine and cleaner than expected. replaced the gaskets and threw it all back together. I also cleaned out the EGR and IAC with air and brake cleaner etc.
Blew all my lines out with air and everything seemed fine. I also replaced my DPFE sensor. Started it up ran fine at idle for like 5 min no coolant leaks or anything so I thought I was golden then about 500 ft through the neighborhood on a test drive the exact same misfire came back doing the same thing with the idle etc. I'm going to check my fuses tonight but I'm starting to think that maybe when I plugged in that wrong wire adapter for the trailer that I may have screwed up something with the PCM. Only because the lights were all out of wack and literally the next morning I started having these issues. I'm lost if its not a fuse. I would really hate to buy a PCM and not need it especially after all the parts I've bought and not needed already.
The vacuum lines all seemed fine and intact as well with no cracks or leaks.
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CEL has been on for a few months, emissions testing came up so we read the codes (P0401 & p0401p) . We took it to the mechanic we always go to, a local one and they ran a full diagnostic and they said there were no leaks and no build up. Everything checked out fine and all they could suggest was replacing the Solenoid (Don't get me started on that) they said they were baffled (a wee bit worrying). So we did that and 20 minutes later the light was back on . In fact, every time we reset the code it comes on 20 minutes later.
The car is due back for Emissions in a month since it failed.
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My wife started our '99 Explorer last week and she said that the engine was rattling. I started it up when I got home and it sounded like something had let loose in the engine. We took it a local mechanic and he basically said that the motor was shot. I pulled the codes and it doesn't look good to me but I'm not a mechanic. Codes are:
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0173
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I would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
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I have a 2010 model Hyundai Accent showing error codes P0301, P0302. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, what is going on and how to fix it.
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This has been an ongoing issue with our 2006. We purchased the car about a year ago and have put on just over 8,000 miles. Rebuilt the battery pack and replaced the 12v battery. This is my wife's car and I have a 2005, so I have done some diagnostics, tuneup, and even swapped some parts between the two cars trying to narrow down the issues.
Only recently have codes been recorded. The car is has a noticeable misfire at low RPM. Here is what has happened up until now:
11/29/15 - replaced spark plugs - #1 was fouled so I swapped coils between cylinders 1 and 4
2/25/16 - replaced 12v battery with new battery
4/1/16 - P0300, P0301 codes were first recorded and reset to see if they came back
4/10/16 - swapped Integration Relay with my 2005 (part # 82641-47010). My 2005 ran poorly after the swap, so I put a used one in my 2005.
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I recently had detected always misfire on those cylinders. Any relation between them?
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This morning I started my car and it was idling a little rough. The the Check Engine light began flashing - I immediately turned off the car and consulted this forum and my father the mechanic. After talking with my Dad and telling him that the car had sat for a week, he thought the issue was probably NOT the catalytic converter and thought it was probably related to the car sitting and possibly getting moisture in the gas. I started the car again (the roughness at idle seemed to have gone away) but the check engine light/malfunction indicator light (MIL) did not flash, it did come back on after a few seconds, but as a solid light . And as we've all read, it's OK to drive with a solid MIL.
I took the car over to Autozone and had the codes checked - P0300 (multiple cylinder miss fire) and P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire). I asked them to clear the codes. I has just put in new NGK spark plugs last month, so I didn't think it would be the plugs. I looked at a new coil pack for one of the cylinders. I decided to see if clearing the codes alone would work and drove home. No issues so far, no MIL, no rough idle, no hesitation (fingers crossed).
When I called the stearleship - they recommended I have the car towed, but would not speculate as to what the flashing MIL could be (catalytic converter or bad coil pack(s))...
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