Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - RPMs Are Up Around 2500 With The Overdrive Engaged
Oct 15, 2014
I have a 1996 Explorer XL 2 dr. It has the 4.0L OHV V6 and the 4R55E Transmission. I bought it used with 152,000 miles on the odometer. About a month after I bought it I noticed it sounded different. I looked down at the tach and the RPMs are up around 2500 with the overdrive engaged. I turned the overdrive off and nothing changed. I turned it back on and nothing changed.
That weekend I pulled the tranny pan and filter and replaced the filter and fluid. There was the normal amount of debris in the bottom of the pan but nothing major. Now when I drive it it tries to shift into overdrive but when it does the engine bogs down and the O/D off light starts flashing. I know how to do the overhaul but I wanted to get a few opinions before I start tearing into it. What could be wrong .
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Found a chevy 2500 4x4 single cab, 1999 with the 6.0. I wanted to buy it when I found out it has 270k and makes a clunk sound under the driver fender when the 4x4 is engaged. Owner says it runs great and doesn't leak any oil..... Should I consider 270k too many miles? I figure the clunk is a CV joint I might can replace on my own.
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus dohc v6 147239 miles..when i get over 60 mph my overdrive light starts flashing and the car still drives find..i did have new transmission fluid and new fillter put in and the light was coming on before i did that and still comes on when i get over 60 mph.
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So I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
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I got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
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-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
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I bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
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I have a 2003 excursion... it is a v 10and just yesterday there was a whistling noise. I parked the vehicle and idle it slowly but no noise. I drove it again n the noise was there again. So the noise is there at 2000-2500 rpm. I'm wondering if its my exhaust manifold?? Also I'm starting to loose power. When running and in parked it shut off.
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Truck: Ranger
Year: 1990
Engine: 2.3 Lima
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Miles: 83,445
Recently Replaced:Oil Pressure Switch
Oil Pan Gasket
Crank Position Sensor
Spark Plugs
Plug Wireset
Ignition Control Module
Driver Side Coilpack
After I got done with all of this crap on my Ranger, I noticed that it was driving great! But...today I was on my way to school and BAM! My engine idle started hitting (presumably because I do not have a tachometer) about 3000RPM and lowering down to about 2500RPM and from there, every time I am not in gear it decided to fluctuate between 2500RPM and 3000RPM. Crazy style too.
Now, I got to school, and getting closer to it at a stop light the truck basically died. It was almost at 100'ish RPM. I gave it gas, and BAM. I hear a continuous hissing noise from under my hood. Haven't diagnosed it fully yet because I just got home and its 12AM.
Now, every time I stop at a light or in traffic or whatever it may be, I have to give it gas every other second, like a small push on the pedal, to make sure the truck doesn't die. Also, every time I am out of gear and my RPM's are at an 'idle' state, I get continuous hissing from somewhere, I get no power loss or anything, just really weird idle RPM's and hissing when my foot is not on the gas basically. It is strange. I think It is some sort of Vacuum leak but I am not sure.
To get a better picture of the 'hissing' noise, it is the same hissing as you would hear when letting the air out of a tire. That is the best way I could describe it.
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So my 98 f150 xlt 4.6 is having a issue where the truck is jumping from 1500 rpm to about 2500 - 2600 rpm. You know sitting there trying to get up to speed. then all the sudden i look down and its at 1500 rpm. but still not really going anywhere. So i give it a little more throttle or gas and it jumps from 1500 to about 2500. Its been like this for a month but i thought it was crap fuel. What is the cause or maybe a solution?
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My 2000 Explorer overdrive light will blink once in awhile no hard shifting, no slipping, i also pushed the overdrive button while it was doing this and it went out of overdrive , trans has been service, I know this is a common issue with explorers . I understand that it could be caused by a number of issues. I haven't had the codes pulled yet.
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Recently my check engine light came on. I understand this isnt such a big deal, but then my engine started "skipping", and my overdrive light is now flashing. my car will stall if i come to a complete stop without putting it into park or nuetral. I dont know what to do.
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My 1991 Explorer 4.0 4x4 overdrive not working, so far have checked ohms on sensor at trans and it appears to be ok. Also looking for the pinout of PCM under passenger kick panel to see if voltage is being output to the sensor at trans.
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I have a 02 ford explorer sport trac the overdrive is not working and I have fixed the wire in the steering column and the neutral safety switch and it still does not work. What it could be???
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I drive a 2005 Kia Rio with 48,000 miles. Every once in awhile (particularly after a bit of driving when everything is warmed up) the RPM won't go past 2,500. I'll put it in 1st gear, accelerate till 2,500, but as soon as it gets there, the engine gets groggy, the car slows down, and I have to quickly switch to 2nd and repeat the cycle on every gear. Flooring it makes it worse.
Obviously the fastest I can possibly go with this happening is about 50mph on 5th (just below 2,500). This has happened three times and it has fixed itself every time so far.
A possible clue may be that the check engine light frequently comes on, and its always the same culprit: this "flow meter" sensor. I've had it replaced three times now, but it still always trips the engine light. I now just ignore the check engine light.
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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It's starting to get warm again down here and I've started running my AC in the afternoon on my way home from work. I've noticed that as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at idle waiting for the light, the RPM's on my car drop considerably while the AC is engaged. I know there is a valve, AC idle-up valve or some such thing, that increases the idle when the AC is engaged. Where is it located and what is the proper name/part number so I can check or replace it? Haynes isn't supporting.
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My F150 with 175,000 miles on gave me a the ol' P0305 code indicating misfiring in cylinder #5. I changed the plugs and wires using Motorcraft wires and Motorcraft AGS34FM plugs.
Now the truck idles fine, does not give a OBD code but runs rough at 2,000-2,500 rpm. Tried it out on the highway and it started "bucking" a bit. Not sure what to try next.
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Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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Got a call from my little sister about two weeks ago that her Ford Explorer would not drive forward. Checked it out and put it into second to get it home.Last weekend me and my dad changed the filter and fluid and then drove it for a bit. It sounded a little better but still would go into drive or reverse. We shifted into second which we knew worked and then back into reverse immediately and now reverse worked, although sluggish. The same was true for drive. A few days later dad changed a solenoid and now it will go into drive and go up to 15mph, but will not shift from first to overdrive first. And still no reverse right away. She is able to get to school with second gear and pop into drive when she gets up to 40-45mph. If she has to backup from start, first she has to put it into second and then back to reverse. Something in overdrive doesn't seem to be doing its job right.
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