Can the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
View 1 RepliesStarted up the 2002 EXP today and thought the fuel pump was failing. Get a consistent thump every 1 second. Later today i looked and noted the noise is coming from drivers rear fender well (i think). I took off the small plastic cover of the rear blower motor and thought it was in that area. Disconnected the motor and still thumps. Disconnected the blower motor resistor block and still thumps. Looked at the overhead consol and the rear blower was on HI. Turned the blower down and as you reduce speed the noise volume is lower. Turned the switch off and i thought the noise was gone. Pulled the cup holder above the fender well looking for a relay or something in that area. I cant isolate the noise but seems to be real close to that area. Later i heard the noise, very faint, and the blower switch was off. Turned it to 1-2-3 and it gets much louder. Turned it off and very slight noise. What am i looking for? My hearing is not accurate enough to find it.
View 2 RepliesI was away from the Phaeton for 2 weeks and managed to let the battery run down to totally dead (left Radar detector on). Started her up on the secondary battery and everything seemed fine, but, a few days later, I had occasion to put down the drivers window - no joy. Tried the passengers window - again no joy. The rear windows were fine. When I try to operate the window I hear a short sound like the window is starting to open, but nothing happens and the glass does not move. Because it is so unlikely that both front windows would fail simultaneously, I suspect a controller may need to be reset. Is there any way to trouble shoot this without a VAG COM?
View 24 RepliesThis procedure explains how to remove the driver side, rear door panel, test the power window motor and switch and replace the power window regulator assembly.
Tools Required: #2 Philips screwdriver, small slot screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, jumper cables, set of test leads with alligator clips, DC voltmeter.
Cost: In the end, I did not end up buying a new window regulator assembly, but I think a "Dorman 741-356 Rear Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Toyota Camry" would work.
1. Locate the anchor (red arrow). Push the center in and then pry the anchor out with a slot screwdriver.
2. Remove ashtray, pry and remove the rubber liner and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
3. While pulling the door handle, carefully pry the plastic trim piece away from the door handle bezel and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
4. Pushing the door trim piece forward, pry the rear upward. Note that there is a plastic tab (red arrow) at the front of this trim piece, so it is necessary to lift it from the back to avoid breaking it.
5. Squeeze the electrical connector to remove it from the socket and then set the trim piece/switch assembly aside.
6. Remove #2 Phillips screw (red arrow).
7. Remove two #2 Philips screws (circled in red) at the bottom of the door.
8. Grasp the bottom of the door panel with your fingertips and gently, but firmly pull outward to disengage the 9 snaps on the door.
9. Lift the door panel upward to unhook it from the door. Carefully set the door panel on the ground.
10.Pull the white plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Pull the green plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Gently set the door panel aside. %
Ok its a 96 explorer 4x4 and I just picked it up so I am learning all the things wrong as I go here. First off every now and then when the truck was almost to a stop the abs motor would kick in and make the abs noise. I checked the brakes and decided to change all 4 rotors and both sets of pads. I just push the fluid back up when I change pads instead of making a mess with bleeding and I am still getting the abs noise once in awhile. So could this be something wrong with the abs or should I sit there and bleed all 4? There is no lights on in the dash.
View 2 RepliesI just picked the car up at the dealer, after having had the new window regulator installed.
They were just closing service and I didn't think to test the window before I left the lot, but on the way home I put the window down... nice and smooth and quiet.
Then I put it up and there was a loud thunk at the top of the travel. I tried to capture it in the attached video but it isn't nearly as "bass-y" as it is in person. Crappy mic on the phone I guess.
My other three windows have a very soft sound as they reach the top of the travel, nothing like this thunk. What it might indicate?
Video here: [URL] ....
My daughter has a 94 explorer xlt 4 dr. The window motor regulators are going out. I replaced one of the front ones and decided I'd just make the parts needed next time. All that was really wrong with the front was the little plastic slugs were crushed. They are easy enough to make.
Tonight I tried to remove one of the rear motors, so I could open it up and get the measurements I needed. I found 2 screws that secure the motor, but that's not all that holds it. It seems to be mounted with a spot welded stud as well. There is a small dimple in the door panel in the approximate area.
Before I start drilling things that might not need drilled, I thought maybe I better check here first. How is this supposed to be removed ? The Haynes manual for it tells nothing as to the removal and replacement of any of the window motors. Is the reg inside the gear head anything like the front door motors ?
I'm fixing up my 1991 Ford Explorer Sport. I've replaced door panels, handles, center console, seat upholstery etc... I'm now looking for a replacement headliner. I've already checked LMC without any luck. Also my windows will not roll up/down even though the electric window motors are working. I can push and pull the windows up and down by hand while pushing the corresponding direction on the door control so it seems the mechanism is just slipping against the window. What exactly is this mechanism? what do I need to fix this problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 ford explorer, the passenger side rear window only works in one direction, I have tested motor and it does work in both directions reversing the polarity, checked switch by checking voltage on each prong of plug (where motor plugs into harness), and does get 12 volts on each line as switch is being activated,I think there may be a ground problem on the one side that does not work, where to start looking??
View 1 RepliesIt looks like I am going to have to replace my front driver's side power window regulator soon - it is making a bad sound when I power the window down and also the window glass seems to be loose and clunking when I close the door with the window partially or all the way down. These may be two separate issues. I think the motor itself is fine.
In looking at replacement window regulators I see two options. The lower cost option ($50-70) is to just by the regulator cable/pulley/gear assembly.
Like this: [URL]
But I also see options to buy that assembly pre-installed on the metal door plate that it attaches to: [URL]
So, my question is, once I have the door apart and the glass out, is it relatively easy to install a new cable/pulley/gear regulator assembly, or would I be better off buying a pre-installed regulator on a new metal plate?
I know how to take the door apart as I have done this before to change out the door lock/latch module.
2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
View 1 RepliesMy boyfriend bought a 1999 ford explorer, he put about 2,000 miles on it in four months... I believe it now has roughly 110,000... Now the other day, he was pulling out and shifted from reverse to drive, we heard like a loud clunk/thump noise... It shifts into drive, and revs but won't move, it feels like neutral... If you shift to second, first, or reverse it's fine... Tranny fluid is good... O/D is always engaged...
View 3 RepliesA couple of months back my driver side window began to make this terrible squeaking noise when rolled up and down. I noticed that the noise is not as bad when it is cooler out and when I run my car through the wash with wax (just an option they have at the carwash place).After some internet research I believe that the problem is with a part of window regulator mechanism.
There were a couple of options available to me:1. Replace window regulator mechanism (great instructions on pelicanparts.com). To do it on my own is about $80 (part cost) and 5-6 hours of work or $600 at the dealer's. 2. Locate the motor of window regulator, open it and clean it. Probably 5-6 hours of work, but $0!!!3. Open the door, clean inside and grease the tracks.
I opened the door and cleaned the glass and tracks – no result! I brought it back to the dealer (car is not under warranty anymore) and they were nice enough to open it again for me and grease the tracks – no result except for marks on my window and the verdict that I need to replace the regulator mechanism….
What do I need to do to replace the drivers side window motor in my 97 f150? Do you need special tools? or just pull the panel loose from the door replace and motor and push the panel back on. Or is there plastic clips that are going to break off?
View 7 RepliesMy 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
View 4 RepliesWhere I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
View 6 RepliesIt doesn't happen all of the time and it's not consistent as to when it occurs. Originally, I thought it happened when it was cold outside, but since it's been pretty cold here lately, I have not heard it. Also, it has occurred when the engine was warm (after driving for 20 min or so).
It sounds like it's coming from the engine block, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a 1996 ford explorer 6 cylinder 4.0L engine with approx 249,000 miles.
Just recently bought a 1996 Explorer and I notice the power door locks will all unlock fine but when I hit the switch for the LOCK they don't work. It's the same from both PL switches. I've also noticed that I can't unlock the car using the key on either side. Not sure if these issues are connected or not.
View 14 RepliesMy driver's door power window motor stopped working. Replaced motor (Dorman). New motor was shaky and wouldn't stop when going down. Replaced motor again (Dorman), same thing. Regulator became damaged, replaced (Dorman), smoother, still won't stop with auto button, or holding down button. At some point glass came out of regulator and track. Replaced glass. Window goes up and down smoothly, but just doesn't stop when going down and tries to keep going. I don't see a limit switch or circuit for it. I see there is a relay and a fuse for the auto down. What tells the motor to stop driving current?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 explorer sport 2wd. My problems are that when I put the driver or passenger window all the up it makes a noise under the dash then i let go of the button then the driver window goes down halfway. when i drive at night i can see a dim light behind the turn signals blinking even if I don't have the lights on. also when i have the lights on i cant put the window up if its down, i have to turn off the lights to put the windows up.
View 4 RepliesYesterday after about a 2hr drive as soon as I got off on the interstate exit and started to slow down my Explorer made this horrible sound that almost sounded like a power drill or the engine over revving. Then it did it every time I would slow down for anything after that. At first I thought it may have been the transmission so I took straight to a tranny shop, and by the time they got around to looking at it (several hours later) they said they could not find anything wrong with it and could not reproduce the noise. So I started driving home and about an hour into the drive it started doing it again. It only makes the noise when you take your foot off the gas. As soon as you touch the gas pedal it immediately stops. Someone told me it may be the bearings in the tension pulley, does this make sense ?
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