On my 1996 explorer it has 2 brake lines that come out of the master cyl, then they go into the anti lock, then 3 lines come out of the anti lock. We replaced some bad brake and now have those 3 that come out of the anti lock mixed up. Which one of those 3 goes to the back?
View 6 RepliesSo here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
View 1 Repliesseem to be losing brake fluid from the area of the ABS system and it dripping down on the brake lines underneath. Noticed this when draining excess oil from the engine (dealers!!!!). I'm thinking this has been leaking a long time. I have the worst luck finding a reputable mechanic anymore and if I can't trust a dealer...
View 9 RepliesI am going to be changing my brake lines in the rear and to the rear of my X. i ordered the rubber lines. what i would like to know is the part number for the steel axle tube line and the line that runs the from from front to back.. I don't know if it matters but when i looked up the left caliper line I had to get it for to 12/20/99...
View 12 RepliesIs it a do it yourself job to replace brake lines. Never done it before or even seen it done. Special tools required? Will the auto parts store know exactly what I need? Are these questions answering my question?(don't do it) ...
View 14 RepliesBlew a hole in the 3/16 inch line to the rear on the left frame rail, behind the gas tank. Lost all brake function.
Got the truck home and inspected. The line was rusted bad about 6 ft long from the connection at the rear hose to the axle, up to the rear seat area ( crew cab). From the drivers seat forward, the line looks very good. The line across the rear axle from left to right looks very good. I bought two 50 inch standard lines 3/16 inch. Started at the rear hose connection 6 inches behind the gas tank and ran forward to the rear seat area.
Cut about 32 inches of the other 51 inch line and connected and ran forward to below the front seat area. There is a metric connector at this point. I cut an inch in front of it to eliminate it. NAPA sells a high psi compression fitting ( steel , 10,000#) that you can connect two 3/16 inch lines together. I did that under the drivers foot area. I have done two different 2002 F150s in the last year due to this failure. Something to look into. Not nice to loose brakes in traffic.
If your worried about the steel compression fitting, don't. I have used these on several cars and trucks over the last 15 years. Make sure you get the STEEL high pressure compression fitting. Total line replaced on CREW cab, 51 + 32 inches. Pops right back into the original plastic clamps.... I might mention, that is where the failure was, under the plastic clamp at the rear end of the gas tank area.......... crud must collect on the clamp.
I have a 1999 Ford F-150 4X4 w/4.6L V8 W code, I recently lost all brakes. The primary line from Master Cylinder to ABS Pump rusted out completely. Replaced them but the other lines from ABS Pump to wheels are looking real bad. So I need to replace them, however I have no idea what the routing system looks like. Looking for a 97-03 F-150 Brake Line Diagram? I live at the jersey shore... so yeah rust is extremely common.... unfortunately.Also, where to get line assemblies?
View 7 RepliesIs there a good way to bend brake lines without a bender? I have two brake lines to bend that are probably no longer then 3 feet and don't want to buy a bender.
View 6 RepliesI am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
View 1 RepliesWhat happens if or when you get air in your brake lines and the air gets into your ABS pump/module? What are the symptoms? Anything other than a soft pedal? My ABS module keeps thinking one of my tires is sliding when i am driving and pulses my pedal and i am at a loss.
View 14 RepliesWhy the brake lines have 2 or 3 coils in them near the master cylinder? Makes it a real pain to work on anything down in that area. Always snags ratchets and stuff...
My brother and I were discussing it the other nite, and the conclusion we came up with was, the first guy ever who was installing a brake system had tubing that was a couple feet too long, and couldn't find a tubing cutter, so he coiled them up.
Then the next guy saw that and figured "hmm, so THAT'S how it's done", and so on... Kinda like the story about the lady who always cut off both ends of her ham before she put it in the broiler..
I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
Next on my list of needed repairs is new brake lines. The ones running along the frame are rusted pretty bad. I had a 89 F-150 bust a line once and it got real interesting so I would like to change these before that happens.
I have searched and still not gotten a clear answer as to whether I need to get a scan tool and do something with the ABS pump. I would like to know if the scan tool is necessary.
How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
View 1 RepliesI plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
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I have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
View 2 RepliesI have a 08 f250, my abs is giving me nothing but problems, always have, have any of you's ever ran new brake line and by passed the abs?
View 2 Replies98 Ranger Front brake lines Too short! they kink in sharp turns and wear out then start to seep then eventually leak and need replacement. Checked parts references and the lines have been considered stock. Not sure if I have a 1/2 year model.
View 1 RepliesWhen on my 2-post lift my front brake lines on my '11 4x4 are pulled TIGHT, like stupid tight. It's also dumb that the soft line points UP 'cause it gets tugged down to a brutally tight 180.
I've got the front lift pads under the control arms, too, but near the very rear of the control arms so the axle isn't even dropped out all the way I don't think.
There's a bracket down near the bottom of the coil springs that could just be sectioned/lengthened, which I think would alleviate my issue. I'll be working on this soon.
What manufacturer builds a vehicle that yanks on the brake lines under full suspension droop? Shouldn't this be on an engineer's final checklist before the vehicle is released? Oh wait, they gave that task to Team TTB and Engineering Group TFI Or maybe they gave it to the same Audi team that designed the Allroad with airbags that can be damaged if you don't "lock" them out before lifting the vehicle......
What kind of brake line is it and if is replicable with regular brake line? I'm just replacing long line between front and back splitter block and just would like to know what is it. What is purpose of that braiding (?) at front brake lines and why they wind down instead of going straight. Part of that long line is braided too, part that go across frame.
View 3 Replies2005 Sierra 4WD 1500 Crew Cab.
My 2005 Sierra, with only 42,000 miles on the odometer, has been stricken by the corroded brake lines syndrome. So far, only one line has burst - a line to the left front brake - spraying brake fluid all over the exhaust manifold and leaving me with rear brakes only. I'd like to know, before borrowing a car and heading off to the parts store for a generic length of pre-flared tubing, what the tubing diameter is (i.e. 1/4" or 6mm) and what the thread gauge on the fittings is.