Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - ABS Motor Kicks In When Truck Was Almost Stopping
Dec 1, 2012
Ok its a 96 explorer 4x4 and I just picked it up so I am learning all the things wrong as I go here. First off every now and then when the truck was almost to a stop the abs motor would kick in and make the abs noise. I checked the brakes and decided to change all 4 rotors and both sets of pads. I just push the fluid back up when I change pads instead of making a mess with bleeding and I am still getting the abs noise once in awhile. So could this be something wrong with the abs or should I sit there and bleed all 4? There is no lights on in the dash.
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2 parts to this problem, Just changed the brakes/rotors, drums, shoes all around again, but still have this problem.
1. While stopping at a light when the truck slows down to 5mph or so the petal seems to go soft and the abs kicks in and the truck seems to carry on another 5-10ft further. It slows down from hwy speeds normally but just when it comes down almost a complete stop the abs will kick on in very fast pulse and keeps rolling for a few more ft. Even on dry surfaces.
2. Sometimes on slippery surfaces (gravel roads/rain/snow) it seems like the rear brakes lock at low speeds when coming to a stop.
Just thinking of disconnecting the abs sensors to all wheels......
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Can the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
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Friend has 1996 Explorer EBE. When you reach 60 MPH the entire truck rumbles down the road. Increasing speed has no effect and the sense it not as if the source is a wheel or a particular corner of the truck, the entire truck rumbles like when you run over those "wake up the driver" bumps you find on the side of the highway. So my thinking is transmission - case maybe since it is the entire truck that rumbles ....
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I just bought this Ranger a really bad steering issue. When at low speeds, when I go to turn the steering "jumps/kicks." Then after I straighten out at the end of the turn it jumps in the direction that the steering wheel is being turned. This goes away at higher speeds (40+mph).
I was told by the seller that it needs a new steering pump, but my mechanic said that it was operating well. He noticed that the bearings were loose on the driver side and tightened them up. The problem went away. I just finished driving it for about 20 miles and the problem is back.
What do you think? Is there a way to easily shut off the p-steering to see if that is the problem? Is this a good idea?
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Got in one day fired it up and no air. Thought the freon was low (uses a can a year) come home put part of a can in compressor kick on and off like they do. Except this time it is blowing freon out somewhere under the intake like a poppet valve or something. Can't see where it is coming from it only does it for a split second and when the rpm's are up around 2500 or so. First thought was I have to much freon it. Vacuumed it out started all over and the same thing. What it could be is there a pressure relief valve under the intake some where?
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Fuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
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I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
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I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
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I have recently purchased a 1999 F150 with a v-6, standard transmission (5 speed). Previous owner said he had just replaced the clutch. Here is the problem, after the truck has been running a while and after stopping the truck will not shift into gear. It does not grind or make any noise, it just won't go into any gear. The only solution is to shut the engine off, place it in gear and restart the engine. During normal travel the transmission shifts up and down without any problems. The clutch does have a slave cylinder.
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I had heard clunking when hard accelerating or hard stopping my 2003 Explorer, also heard it from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected u-joints, was correct, those were replaced.
After I received my car back I noticed the clunk was louder when hard accelerating or hard stopping; again from Park to Reverse/Drive. I suspected rear differential. I called my mechanic who said they noticed some play in the rear end - a little loose, that the noise would be noticeable...but that if it were him he wouldn't worry about it. He said the drive shaft was tight, that I wasn't in danger of it falling out, etc.
These are the only symptoms I have that something is wrong with the SUV. Just that clunk. If I come off slow from a stop and not hit the gas, there is no clunk. If I do not hard stop, again I can avoid the clunk. The vehicle does not vibrate or make noise on the freeway, shifts well between gears.
I was going to have my mechanic open the rear end up and see what needed to be replaced when the cold weather brakes. In the meantime, is there anything I need to be keeping an eye on, or something else I should check? My mechanic said the checked it over and couldn't find any other problems. I just want to be prepared for expenses.
It's a 2W, not 4WD. I had all the fluids done, a drain and refill on rear. Not sure if that's important to know or not.
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After I've been driving a bit and stop at a red light, drive thru, etc. I've noticed a strong gas smell. I drive with my windows down so I really notice it. I've searched all over the car and can't see any leaking. In addition to this, after I shut the car off for 20-30 minutes, when I re-start it, it runs really rough like its flooded until it clears itself out, along with the gas smell. The consensus seemed to be that its the pressure regulator/vacuum line. Where exactly is that located?
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My wife has a 2006 Sonata and it ran great up until about a month ago, she started noticing when she hits the brakes and sometimes when she hits the gas the a/c blower motor would stop blowing for a second and all the lights would dim. So i drove the car for a day and she was right. the blower motor shuts off and the lights dim for roughly 1 second during breaking then it all works fine again.
What this could be? the car has no check engine light on or anything. I was hoping this is a common thing with a known fix.
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New issue I've discovered , when stopping , the RPM's drop down to 500, truck acts like it wants to stall , then goes up to 750 RPM's . Then it's fine . Doesn't hesitate when accelerating . Idles slightly rough after start up , about 30 seconds . I've checked the air filter , cleaned the IAC and MAF. Fuel filter is only a year old . What I should check next ?
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Recently purchased 2006 F-550. Noticed the brakes seemed a bit squishy and weren't stopping the truck as well as I thought they might. Looked under the car and saw this at the right rear tire. Give it to me straight, doc.
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1996 Ranger 2.3. I bought it from a friend 2 months ago. 228,866 miles. The motor seems to stumble as I'm going through the gears. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and installed new air filter. Check engine light has always been on, O'Reillys hooked up their computer to it and said Emission Valve Malfunction. I see the charcoal canister, then I have 2 electrical sensors on same line. First one from canister looks like what Rockauto.com shows as a Vapor Canister Purge Valve. The photo has it with a yellow orangeish top. I don't know what this 2nd sensor is. It has a blue top.
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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I just bought an 02 explorer it has a 4.6 V8 it has a bad motor. I was wondering what other vehicles and years I could take the motor out of.
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My new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
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My 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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