Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - ABS Light Won't Go Off But No Error Codes
Jan 19, 2012
How do I get abs light to go off? I removed and cleaned all sensors, checked all wiring, fuses, and diode. I also used a a scanner, and it tells me there are no error codes. What do i do now?
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My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
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I have a 1996 Ford E-150 van that has a misfire. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor have been changed and I still have it. The error codes come up as cylinder 3. ( I was getting the same before I replaced everything.) Scanner also says lean on bank 1. It also says that the O2 sensor behind the cat is not doing much.
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I just pulled error code B1944 from my 96 Explorer. It says
Crash sensor ground
Ckt 1, High res/open
I found the airbag diagnostic module (in passenger cowl area) and checked for loosed wire, nothing found. Where the loose ground wire is located? I checked under the seat (didn't do a through job, but looked).
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The Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow
I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.
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1996 Explorer xlt 4.0l ... I ran into this issue a few years ago on a drive up through the mountains. Had the tranny replaced shortly after.
Rebuilt the engine once due to leaking head gasket.
Rebuilt it again 2 months ago due to leaking rear main seal.
Had a new torque converter installed during last engine rebuild, so tranny has been shifting and driving like a dream.
Just drover about 30 miles on highway, all pretty flat. OD light started flashing. I didn't notice ANY change in the way it was driving, sounding, shifting... anything! I know this is some sort of oddball error with this transmission in this vehicle, but i need to know if it requires further investigation.
Also, sometimes upon starting up (i am a pizza deliver, so i often shut it off and start it again 1 minute later) the OD and (i think) the 4x4 light flash at the same time, and my windows wont work for around 15 seconds. I've also noticed that my ABS will sometimes kick in randomly on dry ground during slow stops.
I am not in the mood to just start dropping cash on random sensors or modules or repairs if i can find any solid evidence of an issue (i've been battling an EGR issue for 4 years). I was thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
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My 1996 Ranger runs ok but my check engine has come on. Using a scanner tool, indicates my cat monitor wont go to ready state and my error code is P0141. According to my research it indicates one of my 02 sensors. How to determine if its the one before or after the cat converter? About 6 months ago I had an exhaust leak repaired around my converter so I know I cant return it under warranty . If its the rear sensor , It looks fairly easy to replace but the front sensor looks a bit cramped.
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So I have been having some troubles with my 2003 F150 4.6L ... Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors??? I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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Was driving into town today in my 96 Ford Explorer XLT v6 4wd, when I noticed my O/D off light flashing. I thought to myself, "Another problem I have to bash at with a wrench to get going again." I figured that meant I'd be stuck with gear 1 and would burn some extra gas on the ride home, but after parking and running an errand, woe behold me but my car won't start! The starter turns, but no other noises come out of my now very-large paperweight. I've tried shifting into neutral, moving the car to get the gearbox turning, starting the car in neutral and park, yet the stubborn car remains dead. Am I drawing a connection between the light and the failure to start where one need not exist?
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My 1996 X with the 4.0 has developed a flare from 2-3, and the O/D light flashes. It still drives well, but it's bothersome, to say the least.
I'm hunting a replacement tranny, and am wanting to know which year X's to look at as a donor.
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I have an 03 Explorer 4.6L that is running bad. The code was P2196, I changed B1S1 O2 sensor and cleared code. A few minutes later the SES light was on, I checked codes and now I have P2196 (again) and P0405. Why I was only getting the O2 code and now I have it again after replacing it and a new code (0405 EGR)..
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I pulled the wrong fuse, and now my air bag light is flashing a 5 2 pattern, and then stays on continuously.
it's a 96 OBD II - so I don't think I can do the "short the 2 pin gray connector" trick, or can I?
I pulled the right kick plate, and see the AIR BAG module, etc the fuel inheria switch mounted on the firewall, but no sign of that 2 prong plug....
so, how does one reset or clear this 52 code - I know that it was a result of me pulling that fuse, as the light was perfect before, and no issues.
I googled this topic, and still can't seemed to find this... will I need to take it to a dealer to have them flash the Air Bag Code?
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Any way, they come to me and tell me the tranny is slipping. I immediately notice the SES light on. I decided to check codes to see if I have any errors coming from the tranny. So far I have these codes: P0455 P1151 P0304 P0174
I dont know this vehicle at all and wanted to see if some of these items are common and/or possibly related to each other.
Heres what I have found:
P0455 - EVAP leak somewhere. Seems a lot of people have discovered a crack in the filler neck.
P1151 - Passenger O2 LEAN
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0174 - Passenger lean condition "A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time."
Looks like I need to clean the MAF, check vacuum leaks, possibly replace passenger O2. Ive also read some of these codes come from a common issue with the intake gasket. May need to replace it? How should I clean the MAF? Can I use some normal solvents?
I need to mention a tick/tap on pass side under cold idle (consistent, but not constant). Still need to test to see if it happens at other times. Right now has Seafoam in the oil and about to run it and then change the oil. Also, have ran it though the brake booster. Currently in the sit and wait process, about to go out and make the neighborhood smoke like Hiroshima.
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I just brought a 1996 Explorer 4x4 V6 XLT from a friend thinking it was an easy fix by answers I found of the problem on the net. Even search threw the threads here. Right now my OD light is flashing and the speedometer is bouncing around not detecting the current speed. Also it's not going into gears smoothly. I've replaced the VSS as well as the gear on the end of it. What was the fix for it?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Prius with about 150K miles on it. After work one night i hit a pothole and my ABS and BRAKE lights came on. I took it to a garage and they could t find anything wrong with it so they reset the light. It came back on about a week later (no potholdes this time) and i took it back. They hooked it up again this time it said there was an issue with the computer coding. So i took it to a Toyota dealership. They hooked it up to all their scanners and could find nothing wrong with my vehicle. They recalibrated the sensor and the light went off. Now a week later it is back on again. Brakes work fine and we get no error codes.
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1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
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A couple of weeks ago the check engine light came on and when I had the codes checked it showed a problem with the EGR valve. I replaced it and the light went off. A week later the check engine light came back on but when I had the error codes checked there weren't any. After a few days the light went off but earlier today it came back on. There are still no error codes.
I forgot to mention that it's a 2000 Camry, 6-cyl.
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I have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
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Just tried to leave for work and my check engine light came on. Luckily I just got a scangauge and the error codes are P0441 and P0445. I checked online and for regular Prius is says it could be the fuel system, fuel cap, etc. I'm scared to drive it now and wonder if I should call Toyota Care to tow my car to service.
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I have a 2005 explorer, eddie bauer (120k), which i really love driving. Recently, i have lights coming on in my dash: ABS, traction control and the 4wd light intermittently flashing. I went to Advance auto parts and they were able to read the codes, a B1155 - speed wheel sensor LF input circuit failure and a B1145 - speed wheel sensor RF input circuit failure. I have replaced both wheel bearing hubs (with the speed sensors) about 6 monthe ago. the connectors leading to the speed sensors are both showing 12v at the plug. Is the problem both my sensors have gone bad? Is there any way to test these sensors. I need to get this fixed quickly since i am due for an emission test very soon and it will not pass if any dash lights are on.
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I'm having some problems with my 05 1.8T GTI. I've had a check engine light for about 3 months and finally got a diagnostic tool (VAG V-checker). Right now I have one code 17748.P1340 Camshaft position sensor-G40/engine speed sensor -G28: incorrect allocation.
I researched a little bit and talked with some of the guys at the local VW dealership. From what I learned this could be related to (obviously) faulty camshaft position sensor and/or faulty engine speed sensor. So I've replaced both of these sensors and even cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor.
I cleared the code and after driving about 5 minutes the code came back. Also I recently had a P0300 and P0304 cylinder 4 misfire default code. So I've changed all of the ignition coils too since I heard they were recalled a while back.
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