Ford - Explorer :: 1996 2WD V6 - Mild Bucking / Pulling Sensation When Braking
Sep 6, 2013
I have a 1996 Ford Explorer 2WD V6 that runs pretty well. It has approx 270,000 miles on it. My issue is whenever I stop, there seems to be a mild jerk as the truck comes to a stop. It feels like it's the wheel, but I am not sure. I was thinking it was the rotors and was going to replace them. The jerking isn't violent; instead it's almost as if the truck is bucking. It's probably not even a visible buck, but instead something you feel.
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I have the above vechicle with a straight six engine and with 100,000+ miles and have a problem that has been ongoing for sometime and am totally confused as to what to do. The pickup starts great in the morning and idles fine. No roughness during accelleration or anything while idling. I take my daughter to the bus stop and seems to be running fine. When I drop her off and drive for a short while the engine gives a bucking kind of sensation. This happens at the low end of the "Normal" range of the temperature gauge and apparent when driving around 40 - 45 mph. I think that it may slightly be running a bit rough at freeway speeds but I cannot for sure tell (Idaho roads are not the smoothest. ha). When the engine gets warmer it doesn't seem to be happening.
What could be causing this? I gave it a tune up before (OEM plugs, wires, rotor, cap) and it still happend. I made sure everything was even Motorcraft to see if that had anything to do with it! My nephew replaced the hoses at the top of the engine (I think they are return hoses) because they were bad but still having problems.
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I own a 2009 ford explorer 4wd 5 speed auto with only 44,000 miles when I drive using overdrive just before it shifts into overdrive it bucks and when I slow down below 50 mph before it will down shift to 4th gear it bucks. I have had the suv to a ford dealer repair service 2 times and they ran a diagnostic computer check on it both times and found nothing. What I need to do next?
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Here are the facts about my problem:
- 1996 Park Avenue 3.8 V-6
- 104,000 miles
Problem: When it warms up it begins to hesitate (at all speeds) when the accellerator is pushed s-l-o-w-l-y. It bucks and acts like it is kicking in and out. A typical example is rolling down a flat stretch of road at 65 mph with the cruise on. Here comes a small hill. As the vehicle begins going up the hill the cruise automatically tries to accellerate the engine to compensate for the hill. It begins to buck hard. I put my foot on the accellerator and can accellerate through the bucking and it smooths out. A few more facts.
- Problem ONLY happens when it warms up. Typicall this may be as much as 10 miles down the road.
- When it gets fully warm it will hesitate taking off from a stop light. Again, just small short hesitations. Even putting your foot into the accellerator it will not totally smooth it out.
- I have replaced all of the ignition coils, and the ignition module below the coils.
- One other very strange deal. When it was screwing up on me really bad and I was replacing the coils and the modules, I revved it up out of frustration. When I got to 4,000 rmp it began to cycle in and out. Almost like a 'whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa and won't go beyond 4,000 rpm.
- The diagnostic guy at Autozone told me it may be the a MAP sensor, the throttle body sensor and my uncle suggested the crank sensor.
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My 2000 s-10 pulls to the left when i'm braking. I've replaced pads, rotors, and both calipers and it still pulls to the left.
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I have a 2010 328i BMW. It's been fine with the exception of run flat tires, which we've switched out of...my present problem is with the car pulling to the right when braking on very wet roads. This doesn't happen below about 40 MPH, or on dry surfaces. The shop has checked the brakes twice and done an alignment. Is something getting wet that shouldn't, or is there an adjustment that hasn't been explored?
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I have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
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My wife has a 2008 Eddie Bauer 4x4 explorer and when you are backing up or pulling forward with the wheel turned, it feels like the automatic 4wd wants to engage. The Ford dealership mechanic told me this is normal but it does not do it all the time. Is there anything I can look at to try and figure out why this does it sometimes or if this is even supposed to do this at all?
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My 04 Toureg is pulling and drifting to the right when driving (as well as braking). I have not had in to the dealer yet but will soon. 4500 miles.
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My '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
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At my wits end on this. Left front brake is pulling ever so slightly on my '02 RWD Sport Trac. Just enough to annoy the crap out of me. Sometimes I hardly notice it. Over the past year or so I've flushed and bled the lines after replacing rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rotors and pads. It's still pulling. Is there some electronic adjustment for the module that the brake lines come out of? Does the ECM control the pressures?
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I am in the middle of replacing the timing chains on my 1998 4.0L SOHC 4x4 Explorer. I was going to ignore the balance shaft chain but a piece of the broken jackshaft chain tensioner broke the balance shaft chain tensioner too. Now I have to pull the upper pan/ladder frame.
Of course, the manual says I have to pull the motor to remove the upper pan/ladder frame on a 4x4 but I have heard there may be a way around this. How to avoid pulling the motor and still be able to replace the balance shaft chain tensioner?
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My steering wheel started pulling to the left when I brake, right after I had my struts replaced. The struts could be related to this problem?
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1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
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My new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
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My 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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Parked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.
Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ? With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?
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On my 96 explorer the speedo most always reads 50mph. It goes to this as soon as you take off. You can be doing 5mph or 75mph and the speedo goes to 50mph and stays there. Everything else on the instrument cluster works. Is there something I can replace on the speedo only or do i need to find a good used instrument cluster?
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1996 Explorer xlt 4.0l ... I ran into this issue a few years ago on a drive up through the mountains. Had the tranny replaced shortly after.
Rebuilt the engine once due to leaking head gasket.
Rebuilt it again 2 months ago due to leaking rear main seal.
Had a new torque converter installed during last engine rebuild, so tranny has been shifting and driving like a dream.
Just drover about 30 miles on highway, all pretty flat. OD light started flashing. I didn't notice ANY change in the way it was driving, sounding, shifting... anything! I know this is some sort of oddball error with this transmission in this vehicle, but i need to know if it requires further investigation.
Also, sometimes upon starting up (i am a pizza deliver, so i often shut it off and start it again 1 minute later) the OD and (i think) the 4x4 light flash at the same time, and my windows wont work for around 15 seconds. I've also noticed that my ABS will sometimes kick in randomly on dry ground during slow stops.
I am not in the mood to just start dropping cash on random sensors or modules or repairs if i can find any solid evidence of an issue (i've been battling an EGR issue for 4 years). I was thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
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I'm replacing the oil pan gasket and the new gasket came with a half moon plastic seal. I noticed that there is a grove in the new engine at the rear of the engine but the old engine does not have this grove. Looking for info about this seal, do I need it or not?
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