Ford - Explorer :: 1995 - Vibration / Shaking When Go Over 30 But Occasionally Stops
Sep 8, 2012
My truck is vibrating and shaking when you go over 30. but occasionally stops. I replaced the whole rear end, rear shocks, rear brakes, rear drive shaft U- joints, rebalanced the rear tires( they needed that). at least that fixed the noise (grinding) from the rear end is gone but it is still vibrating.. Over $700 in it this week. at least i did the repairs myself and saved a bunch of money. But i am now stumped... I dont know it if is front end issues, transfer case issues, transmission issues....
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I just got a 1995 explorer from my father in law... I have noticed a vibration from 55 to 60 cannot figure it out.. What might be causing it? It is my daily driver to work...
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I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
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Our Nissan Sentra 2004 heater occasionally stops working, usually when its very cold of course. Usually, the heater starts working fairly quickly but then starts blowing cold air. If you move the vent dial to different positions something changes and the heat starts working again. A mechanic says that something in the heating vents has probably come lose and to find it quite abit of the engine parts will need to be removed resulting in a big bill.
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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I have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
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Yes, another thread on an explorer that occasionally has trouble starting. One cold morning the fuel pump would not operate. When turning the key to run the volts to the pump (with plug disconnected) was 8.6 for a second, then dropped to the 6v range. I took the inertia switch from the firewall and back probed the wire going to the fuel pump, getting 12 volts. I went back to the fuel tank and measured the voltage with the key in run position, and read battery voltage. The car started, and has not failed in 3 days. I know it will quit again. I was thinking of replacing the inertia switch and fuel pump relay.
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I forgot something my battery went dead and it got jumped (left lights on) and now i am getting the 4x4h light blinking it blinks 10 times and then stops and after about a min or so it blinks 10 times again and i am also getting a low oil message on the message center all this started after the battery went dead?
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I was driving back from college for Spring Break on the I-80 when all of a sudden, about 50 miles out, the car starts bucking and losing speed and within a minute stopped moving entirely. The dashboard showed no indicator lights, and oil and transmission fluid seemed fine and there were no leaks of any kind coming from under the car. A highway patrol office stopped and advised me to drive so he could see the problem first hand.
To my surprise, the car worked perfectly. At this point, I simply drove back to my college town to get the car fixed, as I didn't want to risk driving 300 miles with a problematic car. The mechanic said it was because my catalytic converter was old and clogged up and switched it out. Unfortunately, about 60 miles of driving, the exact same thing happened. This time I drove all the way home, simply letting the car rest for 30 minutes every time it didn't want to move anymore. So, what is wrong with the car?
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My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
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I just acquired a 2007 explorer and have a little issue where the interior lights occasionally come on while driving. Did a little investigation and found that when I wiggle the ignition key the lights come on. Also noticed that when vehicle is shut off and door is open, I can wiggle the key and the "key in ignition" chime is intermittent. I'm guessing I need a new ignition switch and have a few questions regarding replacement of the switch.
I'm assuming the ignition keys have the chip in them and was wondering if I will have to reprogram keys or the switch or whatever...And if reprogramming is necessary, is it something that I can do myself?? Also, it looks as if I can replace the switch separate of the ignition lock cylinder. Will just replacing the switch fix my problem or do I need to replace the lock cylinder tumbler assembly as well??
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Before I actually open the steering column and start looking. The problem is when I am going over bumps, once in a while my wipers will turn on on there own. Would this be the relay or the switch it self? Once in a while when I turn on the left turn signal, it freezes and I need to turn it off then back on and I have a small amount of smoke (burnt wire smell) that comes out the hazard button (its the only area it can), so I'm thinking it might be the switch itself. This is on a 2000 explorer xls.
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My '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
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I have a 99 explorer that stops blowing air when I get on the gas or climbing a hill. The motor is still blowing but it stops air coming out the vents. What could be causing this? It works fine other than that.
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Happened two times already if i press gas when turning 90 degrees. My engine stops and i have to start car again, why could this be happening?
I got misfire cylinder 4 and 6 perhaps its related however i am trying to understand dynamics of things why engine only stops under this conditions?
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4.0 v6 A/c works great at first. Then after a while stops blowing out the center dash vents. What to check? Still blows cold out the vents by each front door...
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I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
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So I have a very confusing problem. In my 92 Chevy Astro the battery occasionally stops charging runs down and dies while I am driving and will not restart via jump but must be fully charged. This first happened a couple months and several thousand miles ago but has occurred 3 times in the last two weeks. Both the battery and the alternator have checked out good, and the alternator belt is tight as a drum. What could this possibly be?
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1998 Lexus LS400, ~130k miles, town driving, auto shift.~35mph develops fine vibration with accompanying hum. Both increase when speed up. Hum develops a harmonic and shaking increases to almost a shutter.decreases or stops when release accelerator.
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I have owned my truck for 2 yrs now and put close to 100K on it. It has always had a slight vibration which I attributed to tires and/or one rim that requires a lot of weight to balance correctly.
In the past 4-5 months the vibration has become much worse, between 45-50 mph the truck would literally shake you out of the seat. I decided to pull the drive shaft out and have new u-joints installed and have it balanced. 2 hrs after dropping the drive shaft off at the repair shop, the owner calls me to say the tube is dented and he offers to re-tube the drive shaft for half his normal price. basically he cuts the flanges off the old shaft and welds old flanges on a new tube.
I have a new rear drive shaft that balanced out perfectly. Its so pretty, I don't want to install it in the truck.
Old drive shaft
New drive shaft
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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