I just got a 1995 explorer from my father in law... I have noticed a vibration from 55 to 60 cannot figure it out.. What might be causing it? It is my daily driver to work...
View 1 RepliesMy truck is vibrating and shaking when you go over 30. but occasionally stops. I replaced the whole rear end, rear shocks, rear brakes, rear drive shaft U- joints, rebalanced the rear tires( they needed that). at least that fixed the noise (grinding) from the rear end is gone but it is still vibrating.. Over $700 in it this week. at least i did the repairs myself and saved a bunch of money. But i am now stumped... I dont know it if is front end issues, transfer case issues, transmission issues....
View 4 Replies1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
View 4 RepliesI have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.
View 8 RepliesThe OD OFF light starts flashing by itself and I can't get it to go out. Everytime it does this, the car is sluggish, won't pull very good at stop signs and kicks hard when down shifts. Thought it was weather related but it doesn't matter what the temp. is. Eventually it will go out by itself and everything is fine.
View 4 RepliesMy 95 explorer heater only blows out cold air. I have topped off the antifreeze and just replaced the thermostat. The engine operating temperature is very cold, it won't even come up to the first mark. It is very cold here in Utah but I still can't imagine why the engine won't heat up.
View 9 RepliesI'm working on a 95 Explorer, and I need to know where the end of the negative battery cable should be bolted to. Right now, it's hooked to a bolt on the back of the starter. That just doesn't sound right......
View 3 RepliesI'm working on one of our fleet vehicles here, a 1995 Explorer. about 2 months back, it stalled out. Got it back to the shop and turned the key on .... I couldn't hear the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. Vehicle started right up and seemed to run O.K. About 2 weeks ago, it stalled out again, same symptoms, acts like it runs out of gas and can't hear fuel pump.So, I have been playing with it and find that it starts up great in the cool mornings. In the afternoon when the temps are hotter, it won't start (can't hear fuel pump). The following morning when temps are cool, it will start right up and can hear the fuel pump. I almost wrote this one off as a defective fuel pump, but I'm not sure on this one.
View 7 RepliesI had a clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Everything seemed to be working fine until I drove across the Rockies. The transmission was extremely difficult to shift, and the vehicle would actually roll forward when cranking the engine at fuel stops (temps were minus twenties). Once I got out of the mountains on both ends of the trip (where it was warmer), the clutch worked normally. The local Ford dealer found lots of air in the hydraulic clutch system, bled it, and it worked fine for several months.
The clutch is doing the same thing currently, but not all the time. Some days it's fine, other days it's difficult to shift although double clutching seems to work. It gets particularly hard to shift after a long drive (e.g., interstate driving for a couple of hours). I took it back in this morning to see if the dealer could figure out what is going on, they're saying it's likely a bad slave cylinder. I've heard the 1995 Explorer clutches are a bear to properly bleed, and can't work but think there may still be some air in the system.
The cruise control and the overdrive off dash lights go out when I turn on the headlights. The cruse control and overdrive still work but the dash lights are not lit. It is a 95 4door explorer.
View 1 RepliesI have a `95 explorer with the 4.0 motor. The electronic overdrive off indicator light (O/D Off) on dash started flashing today. The transmission seems to be shifting into overdrive. Owner's manual says to have it checked as damage can be caused. What I should be checking?
View 11 RepliesMy car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
View 3 RepliesMy truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
I have a 1995 Explorer 4x4, and starting last month i have been having an intermittent problem with bang shifting, the only time the bang shifting occurs is when the overdrive off light flashes, the only time the O/D Off light flashes is after driving the interstate or driving around town on hot days, after a few days or a few weeks the light turns off and its shift normal and no bang shifting, but i have a new problem now, the O/D Light off started flashing last night after driving the interstate and I noticed on my way home that it wont shift, it hit 4000rpm and i had to tap the break and accelerate again to make it shift, I went to AAMCO and they wont give me the codes the only thing they said is they want to do a soft parts rebuild, and something about hte gear ratio being off, i dont have the money to spend for a new trans or have one rebuilt, i would like to fix this myself.
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 4-door Explorer XLT. When either front door is opened, the front courtesy door lights and the front dome lights on the overhead console don't come on. (I have tested and/or replaced the bulbs.) However, the rear and cargo dome lights do come on. The LED display on the overhead console does correctly display temperature and direction. The lamp buttons on the overhead console, also, don't turn on the map lights. The interior dimmer switch will turn on just the rear and cargo dome lights. The fuse is good and the vanity lights in each sun visor work fine.
View 6 Replies81,000 miles on it and starting last week I began to get a vibration at highway speeds. The vibration is both in the seats and the steering wheel, though it feels more so from the front end. HOWEVER, I already have had: both front lower ball joints replaced, the front axle replaced, the tires rotated AND aligned AND balanced, and a missing sway bar link replaced. Why it still vibrates. My mechanics (yes I tries 2 places) can't get it right.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2010 Explorer XLT on Saturday with 7,200 miles on it. Everything is great on it, but we noticed a vibration at about 60 -70 mph. Im thinking/hoping tires might need balancing. It does semm to subside a little when slight turn to the left and increase when sight turning to the right (like lane changes). Were/are there problems with the auto 4wd and the sensors? This is still under warrenty until 4/13, but tire balancing is not covered under warrenty. I'm taking it back to the dealer today under the 30 day warrenty that they offer, but they seemed really cool as far as if you just bought it and it vibrates, we will fix it. They say and have so far want us to be totally satisfied. I hate dealing with car dealers worse than going to the dentist, but this was a relatively pleasant experience. Let me know what you all think. I told the wife we were getting a brand new 2010 Explorer and she said that didn't make sense. I said with 7,000 mile on it it was like a brand new car. We need to get rid of the vibration now.
View 6 RepliesI'm having a problem with my wife's '08 Explorer, 4.6L, 4x4. Recently she started getting a weird vibration while driving. I took it out and noticed the following: The vibration sounds and feels like you are driving over rumble-strips. It doesn't increase or decrease with speed. You can't feel it in the steering or brakes. It goes for 2 seconds, stops , 2 seconds, and stops.
This will happen every 7-10 minutes while driving. It doesn't matter if it's under load, or just coasting. I did notice while it is happening that the tach jumps up about 200 rpm for a second and then back to normal. I've searched and found it could be a possible torque converter issue, or even a bad coil. Where to start looking?
What may be wrong with my 03 4wd Explorer. I think I actually might have had two problems, one of which is now fixed.
When I turn in my Explorer from a dead stop, either left or right, there is a vibration that seems like it is in the steering or front wheels. It seemed to get worse over time and I ended up replacing my bearing assemblies which were in fact bad. It may be possible that they went bad because the problem I can't identify messed them up, I don't know.
What I do know is that the longer I drive the car on a trip, the worse the vibration becomes. After 50 miles or so when things are good and heated up, it's really noticeable when you turn at a stop light or in a parking lot or something.
I have new tires, it's in alignment, the tie rod ends and ball joints are tight, and like I said, I've got new bearing assemblies. I looked over everything real good when I had it apart. Power Steering fluid is full too. The transmission fluid has been recently changed, and I did my front and rear diff fluids and transfer case at 100K (I'm at 115K now).
1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
View 8 RepliesI am getting a vibration when I lift off of the throttle and again when I press the throttle. What causes this. Also what is the normal operation of the 4x4 system is this a true all wheel drive system with a 2 speed t-case or is this the normal old control trac that I had in my 98 4.0.
View 4 Replies