Ford - Explorer :: 1995 - Transmission Extremely Difficult To Shift
Jan 22, 2015
I had a clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Everything seemed to be working fine until I drove across the Rockies. The transmission was extremely difficult to shift, and the vehicle would actually roll forward when cranking the engine at fuel stops (temps were minus twenties). Once I got out of the mountains on both ends of the trip (where it was warmer), the clutch worked normally. The local Ford dealer found lots of air in the hydraulic clutch system, bled it, and it worked fine for several months.
The clutch is doing the same thing currently, but not all the time. Some days it's fine, other days it's difficult to shift although double clutching seems to work. It gets particularly hard to shift after a long drive (e.g., interstate driving for a couple of hours). I took it back in this morning to see if the dealer could figure out what is going on, they're saying it's likely a bad slave cylinder. I've heard the 1995 Explorer clutches are a bear to properly bleed, and can't work but think there may still be some air in the system.
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My 2004 Explorer XLT 4.6L V8 AT is very difficult to shift out of park. Sometimes I have to push very hard on the brake in order to get the transmission selector out of park. Other times it is no problem.
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My son has a 2008 Ranger 4.0 4wd 5 speed. Every month or so we need to bleed the clutch as the transmission becomes very difficult to shift. It does not lose fluid, but seems to be holding air. And it's not easy to bleed this setup. Slave going bad? I guess the transmission will need to come out then.
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Starting to develop an issue where the trans will exhibit an extremely hard and abrupt shift every now and then - most only during the first couple hundred yards of driving and I think its the 1-2 shift. Only will happen once and only rarely but its becoming more frequent. I have an '11 5.0L supercab auto 4x4, but my father has a similar truck but with the ecoboost which does the same thing on a MUCH more frequent basis. He has been in numerous times with no resolution so I am loathe to expend the energy on "dealing" with them.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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I have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
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My 95 ford Aerostar 3.0 automatic trans wont shift into overdrive, here's what happened. a small hose on the side of the transmission came off, this must have popped off when I was stepping on the gas with the brake on in drive and reverse. It took 2 months to find the hose off, during those 2 months I had to shift the van manually, you had to get high RPMS before it would shift.
About 2 weeks before I found the problem I notice the van would not kick into overdrive. When I finally found the issue and reconnected the hose the trans shifted fine but still would not kick into overdrive though. Is there another vacuum hose that goes to the main vacuum housing? or an adjustment on the linkage area? This has been like this for about 6 months now and I can go on a highway..
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1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
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My 2002 Explorer LTD with 155K miles on it is in terrific shape except for a worsening rough shift into overdrive (automatic transmission) and a clunk which occurs with increasing frequency when I shift into reverse. I would love to keep the car but don't want to spend the money for a new or rebuilt transmission. There is no access for owner approach to transmission fluid - I have already looked in the manual. I would need to take the truck to a garage as I cannot do repairs myself.
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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The 2003 Ex. Made it back home last week after a couple years at college. .. registration sticker expired last June! Drivers side mirror "taped" on. Rear bumper cover torn in half w/ a few screws holding it on.
Busted out foglight & small tear in bumper cover above it.
Brake light on - noticed fluid low & cap not seated correctly. One of the tabs that hold the cap in place is broken... new reservoir under $20 at rockauto. Looking for a write up or better to replace entire master cylinder?
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My transmission up shifts fine for the first couple of gears, but as I get to the last gear (I think it is the last gear), my transmission takes a while to up-shift. I am at 3000 RPM before it up-shifts then goes down to 2000 RPM on the next gear. Is there any fix that will not require a new tranny?
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I have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
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I have a 2014 Prius C and for the last month or so it's sometimes difficult to shift from P. I always park car with handbrake. It's specially difficult if I push down hand brake before stepping on the brakes and car shifts a little while on park. Car has 35,000km.
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I am looking at a used 2003 X with a 140k miles. The truck is very clean and seems mechanically sound. This will be my third X! The only problem I found is the trans selector is difficult to move. Once driving the trans seems fine. No leaks anywhere. I believe this is cable actuated? Is this something minor or should I run away?
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I have a 2006 Mustang (manual 5 speed) that recently has been having a problem getting into 1st gear
Symptoms:1. When the engine is cold, there is no issue getting the car into gear2. Once it warms up (after approx. 20 miles or 30 minutes driving), it is very difficult to get into 1st gear. I have to put it in 2nd then get it to slip into 1st.3. On hot days the problem starts sooner and is hard to get into the other gears4. when the car has warmed up on a cool day. I can get the car into the other gears (2nd, etc) when standing still, but first is almost impossible
Originally the problem showed up when my wife drove the car, but it is getting worse. Why the engine and/or outside temperature would affect how my I can get my car into gear?
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I just got my 03 F-150 with 112k on the clock. It has the manual 5 speed tranny behind the 4.6L.
However, since I've gotten the truck, it's kind of difficult to put in first gear. If you are sitting at a light and in neutral and the light changes and you push the clutch to the floor and put it in 1st (fairly quickly - a normal reaction time), it will actually do a little grind and/or thump. However, if push the clutch to the floor and wait a couple of seconds and then shift into first, it's a bit of a "push" but it will go in without grinding.
Once in a while shifting to 3rd it feels the same way, but won't really grind.
I'm just wondering if that means the clutch is toast or is it the trans that is toast? Reason I ask is my 96 Cobra with the T-45 5 speed would grind going into 5th gear if I just normally put it in. I used to have to put it in neutral and then push the clutch in again and slowly shift to 5th for it not to grind. And it wouldn't go into 3rd if I tried to shift fast or under power. I replaced the clutch and found out the trans was actually going bad, but it had 173k on the clock.
So, I'm really paranoid that it's my darn trans in the truck instead of just the clutch. Whenever my old Camaro clutches used to be dying, they would slip more than they would ever grind going into a gear.
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I recently had a spin out on the ice in my 2001 Honda Oddessy Minivan and had to have the back wheel and front rim replaced. I definitely hit the sidewalk at least once and ended up backward in traffic with the back of my van on the sidewalk. Just after getting the work done I noticed for the first time that my car was having trouble shifting out of park into any other gear when starting and when I had it running but put it in park. I have to either press the brake several times, all the way into the floor to get it to shift out of park or pump it once or twice quickly and when I hear a little click, shift it into gear. Is this a transmission problem? Could it have been caused by my spin out?
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I have a 2010 Chevy 1500 extended cab. For a few years it was a daily driver. It has 54000 miles. For the last 1.5 years I have been driving a company vehicle so my truck sits a lot and usually only gets driven once a week when I'm off running errands and such. Recently if I drive it just around town a few miles here and there, everything is fine. But if I drive it to a farther location say 20-30 minutes away the truck will start to shift extremely hard into second gear from first to second. The first time it happened I though I got rear ended by another car only to look around and no one was behind me. I wouldnt think the trans. would be going out at 54000 miles.
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Our 2002 Elantra (automatic, 57000k) seems to have a blown transmission. A few days ago, it sounded like the car was "whining" and then it was having difficult time engaging next gear and eventually check engine came on and the car stalled. Firestone said it's a transmission problem.
We've had the car for less than 10 years so technically this should be covered under their powertrain warranty but I have a strong suspicion that the dealership will find a reason to not honor the warranty. It's still below 60k miles so we really didn't have to replace transmission oil.
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When driving, a pin fell out of the shifter arm under the car and now the shift stick is extremely loose and, although it will go into gear, it is almost undriveable. I have reinserted a pin, but the stick shift is still loose. I gave it a test drive and I drove about 10 feet in first gear, but when I put it into reverse, the car continues to move forward.
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