My 95 explorer heater only blows out cold air. I have topped off the antifreeze and just replaced the thermostat. The engine operating temperature is very cold, it won't even come up to the first mark. It is very cold here in Utah but I still can't imagine why the engine won't heat up.
View 9 RepliesMy wife's '02 Explorer has developed an issue with the heat/AC. As far as I can tell, the heat is hot when it's supposed to be hot, and the AC is cold when it's supposed to be cold. But, the problem is that everything only blows out through the defrost vents, no matter what setting it is on.
I know there are other threads on this type of subject, and I have read a lot of them. I thought I had identified that actuator gizmo as the culprit, but the more I read, it didn't seem like the symptoms for that issue are exactly like mine. I want to try and fix it myself, and I'd love to take the time to read everything on the subject, but warmer weather is here and my wife wants it fixed yesterday!
This problem reminds me of the time the vacuum pump went out on my F-350 and the defrost vents were all that would work. I wish this problem would be as easy to fix as that was.
A friend has a 2003 F150 that after starting up will run hot but blow cold air when the heater is on. The truck will run hot for ~ 5seconds then all of a sudden the temp drops to normal range and the heater begins to blow hot. Simultaneously, the oil pressure light comes on when the truck runs hot, then falls to the normal range when the temp drops. I thought perhaps the thermostat is in backward.
View 2 RepliesThe heat up front blows nice and hot but no matter how I adjust the rear ceiling mounted controls it blows cold in the back. Is this a blend door issue or something with the rear controls? Also, on a side note, one of my rear power vent windows just stopped working too. I guess it's either the overhead switch or the motor back there.
View 8 Replies1998 F150 step side, 4.6 V-8 automatic, 176,000 miles -
Heater begins to blow heat as the engine warms up - heat gauge moves up to normal level - running at speed, suddenly the heater blows all cold, the heat gauge pegs to total hot - the oil light comes on, the engine begins to miss - stop the truck, shut off the motor, wait 10 seconds, start back up and all is normal and away I go. Heater working just fine. Gauges are just fine. Have checked the hoses when it pegged to hot, and they are just warm just as if everything is normal.
Problem is intermittent.
Have changed radiator reservoir cap, thermostat, made sure fluid level and mixture is correct - what else to check? Computer issue?
I have a '99 F150 4.2 5 speed, my problem is, my heating isn't working. My A/C works fine, my blower motor does too, i changed my heater core about a year ago. I turn my truck on wait for it to warm up and once my gauge reads normal temp, i turn my control to the warm position but the air blows cold with just a very small hint of heat. I looked it up in my Chilton book and they said to check my hoses that go to the firewall/heater core. They say that both hoses should be hot and if one isn't to check it. i did that and the one on the left side(facing the truck) is barely warm. what could be my problem? heater core? my friend from Autozone said something about a vacuum control somewhere in the engine compartment but i don't know where it is, could that be a problem? Or would the flapper door be stuck?
View 7 RepliesHow do you diagnose and repair a non working AC? The blowers still work, but no cold air blows.
View 4 Repliesi am having some big difficulties with my car i own a 2002 Lincoln LS v-8, has about 118,000 miles on it. when i bought the car USED the heater or ac didn't blow at all we fixed that all it was a fuse. But know that it is winter time the thing is my cars heater blowsn out cold air. ive noticed some times heat blows a little from the passenger side but not the driver and then if it does get warm (my car) its takes for ever. Know i dont really have a problem with the defrost becaseu in the mornings my windows are defrosted after like 20min. ive been reading alot about DCCV and i want to think thats the problem but i really dont know.
View 2 RepliesSo the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
I've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
When my car idles the heater blows cold air but as soon as i throtle it up or drive off it starts blowing warm air, just bought the car the only thing ive checked so far is the coolant level wich is fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford f150 5.4. Heater blows hot, then cold, then hot then cold. When it start blowing cold it pukes out the degas bottle. I have burped it, did the combustion test to make sure not a blown head gasket, the oil clean, there is moisture coming out tail pipe but it has no coolant in it. flushed heater core, pulled water pump off and checked it, its good. Changed thermostat 2 times, put front on ramps to get any air out. I am at a total loss now.
View 8 RepliesThe heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
View 2 RepliesI own a 2002 Grand AM GT. With the engine temperature reading around 200, and the heat set at maximum, frequently, for about a minute, I will get nothing but cold air. At maximum heat setting, on one day, there would be hot air. Yet, at another time the air output would be lukewarm.
View 3 RepliesWhen I turn on the heater on at any temp and fan setting the A/C automatically turns on (compressor and condensor fan turns on) . Engine temp comes up and stays at 190. I can turn up the heat to HI and still cold air blows. All buttons and LEDs work on the climatronic, is it the climatronic that is bad?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
View 8 Replies95 Land Cruiser, air conditioner starts out cold, it has freon and then blows hot after the engine gets hot.
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
View 17 RepliesMy truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.