Ford - Explorer :: 1994 XLT - Oil And Pressure Gauge Lights Came On
Nov 6, 2011
My daughter has a 94 XLT with 4 liter OHV. This the first time I have noticed a vehicle to have both an oil light and a pressure gauge. Periodically the check oil light will come on, but the gauge shows very good pressure. The oil level is full. I'm not sure what to make of this. I know the engine was replaced with a rebuild but no idea how many miles are on it now. Oil looks fairly clean tho it is due for an oil change I think.
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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I have a 02 explorer XLT with the 4.6L and the oil pressure gauge has never worked (the three years I have owned it) I did an oil change yestarday and replaced the sending unit thinking that was the problem but the gauge is still not working. What other problem it may have? 4x4 light flashing (instrument panel looks like a xmas tree)...
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I have a 1994 Chrysler Lebaron. The issue I've been having is for the last two weeks, my oil pressure gauge starts very high(out of normal range), and stays there for a very long time. Whilst it's at the highest possible level, the engine starts to heat up, until the gauge goes into range. This all happens without the car moving. If I leave the car on for 30 minutes(without moving it) the gauge goes into normal range, and for the most part operates normally. I have disconnected the Compressor's belt, in order to be able to turn on the engine fan from inside the car. As long as I keep the fan on, the engine stays cool for the most part.
I have considered that it was sludge, as it would soften as the engine heats up, but I have done an engine flush(machine), and the issue continues.
So far every mechanic I take it too, acts like it's impossible for the oil pump to have any issues, and claims it's normal behavior, which it's not.
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I decided to replace my interior light bulbs with LED's. I started by swapping out the overhead lights. There is one bulb for the dome light that lights up when the doors are open. That light works fine with the new LED bulb. But the two bulbs for the map lights won't work. When I was installing them my screwdriver touched somethings and made a spark. I figured I blew a fuse but all the fuses under the dash don't appear to be broken.
Why is it that the door ajar dome light works but the two map lights wont turn on? Are they not on the same fuse? Is there a fuse in the fuse box under the hood that I should check? I also noticed that my radio has no power. Fuses looked good. The wiring seems fine. The lights worked before I swapped the LED bulbs in. Tried putting the halogen bulbs back in and they still don't work.
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My factory gauge on the dash reads Zero. I have put on a mechanical external gauge and it reads normal.
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My father was driving his 2007 sport trac limited on his way home tonight and all of a sudden he lost all of the instruments in the gauge cluster. At the same time all the indicator lights came on. the truck kept running along with the air conditioning and radio, just lost the instrument cluster. almost like when you first turn the key on before starting. when he got home and turned the truck off, it would not re-start. when you turned the key on even the odometer was blank. when you tried to start it it wouldnt even try to crank. i unhooked the battery and hooked it back up. after about 5 key cycles of not starting like previously, it finally started.
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'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
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Last week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
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I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
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The tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
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It is a garage queen 1994 4.0 AWD with 42,000 miles in nearly perfect shape. Except for the dent in the rear on the passenger side.
I have posted a picture of the dash when going down the road. As you see the engine light is on. It comes on intermittently, pulled the codes, indicated MAF, 02 sensor, running lean/rich. Runs like a champ, no hesitation, still gets up and goes, gets the appropriate gas mileage. I replaced the 02 sensor with the original Ford Part. Didn't cause the engine light to stop going on after about 20 to 60 minutes driving, sometimes it doesn't come on at all.
Could this thermostat be running too cool and causing the engine to throw those codes? Would gladly take it to a mechanic, but seems like it might be a fishing trip with my dollars for them. Next I was going to replace the MAS myself, easily done with the original remanufactured part at a cost of 150.00, 70 for the core, but don't want to chase my tail with these engine lights on when it runs nearly perfect.
Have sprayed the MAF. Checked for air leaks anywhere. Done all the things I could do by just lifting the hood.
So the picture shows the Temp gauge barely touching the N flying down the road at 70 on a level surface, outside temp about 60. Reading the posts says they all run in the cool section of the temp gauge.
So the question is, do they run this cool? Heater works fine and the gauge goes up past the N resting before the O when going up hills on the way to Tahoe. Is this a thermostat problem on a 20 year vehicle with low mileage, or am I going to have to bite the bullet and let the mechanic go wandering through the vehicle?
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My 1994 Explorer is stuck in 4 low. None of the lights are on in the dash or at the switch. I got the switch out & with a test light running I have weak power at the top left terminal better power at the 2nd, 3rd &4th on the right. No power on the opposite terminals. Is my switch bad or do I have a different problem. Also how do you remove the switch from the dash vent ?
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Working on a friend's Explorer. The car idles fine, but once he starts driving and gets to about 35 mph, second or third gear, the car loses power and eventually dies. MAF sensor replaced, no change.
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I'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
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Bought a used 94 explorer xlt. It came with brand new Wrangler tires. The day we bought it we were driving home and it started shaking and wobbling at about 95kms and but seemed to improve after 115. So I took it to the tire shop next day and had all 4 tires rebalanced. The shop told me that all were out to lunch. The worst was 2 ounces out. Ok cool. Was certain that was the problem. Paid the guy and took off. Got on the highway and same damn thing. The steering seems very tight. No bangs. No knocks. Just the bloody shaking. Oh and also the abs light comes on just as it starts to shake. I don't wanna head to a garage to find out some nightmare when I get there. Want some heads up on it first.
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My 94 Ranger 3.0L 5speed 2wd temp gauge is staying on the cold side but the heater is working good and I used a laser pointing thermometer at the thermostat housing and got 180* after running for a while and I also noticed that the fuel economy had gone down along with the power. I was getting 340 miles to a tank but now I'm getting 280 per tank.
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Any known problems with '94 Ranger/B2300 gas gauges? I just got a '94 B2300, and gas gauge reads empty with the key ON, and about 1/4 tank with the key OFF. Was told by previous owner it occasionally works, but I've never seen it work. Am starting to procure manuals and dig around the truck myself, but don't want to re-solve the problem if it's a known one. Haven't seen mention on the net of it being a recurring problem, but just starting to dig.
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I've replaced the fuel pump and filter, plugs and coolant temp sensor. It starts after I spray starter fluid in after a few times and cycle the key on to prime the line but is still hard to start. It runs fine and it seems that as long as the engine is warm or (guessing) fuel is still pressurized in the line it starts fine.
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The last couple of times hauling wood with a trailer, the 1994 Explorer seemed to seriously lack power. Then I noticed there was an awful grinding noise coming from the rear. My guess is that the wheel bearings are shot creating an enormous amount of extra drag, especially with the added load of the trailer. Or what else could it be? How much should I expect to pay to have bearings replaced?
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We have a 94 ford explorer and every now and again it has issues on the start up. It will sound like it will want to crank over but just won't. If we wait 20 mins it will start up no problem. We have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, and fuel pump relay but it still has this problem. Also occasionally the a/c blower wont turn on. Tonight it happened again and I pulled the fuel pump relay out and it was really hot, after it cooled down and was put back in the car started. I am beginning to think it maybe an overheating issue that is affecting the relays but am not sure. I was also wondering about changing out the relay box...
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