Ford - Explorer :: 1994 - Wobble And Shake At 95 Km?
Nov 4, 2011
Bought a used 94 explorer xlt. It came with brand new Wrangler tires. The day we bought it we were driving home and it started shaking and wobbling at about 95kms and but seemed to improve after 115. So I took it to the tire shop next day and had all 4 tires rebalanced. The shop told me that all were out to lunch. The worst was 2 ounces out. Ok cool. Was certain that was the problem. Paid the guy and took off. Got on the highway and same damn thing. The steering seems very tight. No bangs. No knocks. Just the bloody shaking. Oh and also the abs light comes on just as it starts to shake. I don't wanna head to a garage to find out some nightmare when I get there. Want some heads up on it first.
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I have an 09 F350 (116,000 miles) that I have only owned for about 3 months. I got it pretty cheap but it did have a front end issue. Drives fine most of the time but hit a bump just wrong at highway speed and it goes into a shake and wobble that feels like you just blew a front tire. Took it into my shop, not the dealer and was told I pretty much need a front end rebuild. Kinda what I figured I would hear.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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My wife's having trouble with her '02 Explorer 4x4 V8 XLT.
Today I experienced a violent steering wheel shudder that I would describe as the old "death wobble" you hear about on solid axle trucks, Early Broncos, Jeeps, etc.
At 55mph, in a slight right hand turn, a little bit of a bump in the road triggered it. I held on to it as the steering wheel was rotating left and right a few degrees (maybe ~10deg) and it wouldn't stop until I slowed down to around 35mph.
I crawled underneath and didn't see anything obviously bad (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc).
Then I noticed when turning the steering wheel (with the engine running, but parked) I could feel it shuddering slightly as I turned it.
The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise so I wonder if its on the way out.
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A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
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I just had vehicle inspected and replaced the wheel hub assemblies on the front Left and Right wheels in order to pass. Now while driving strong shaking occurs occasionally when over 60+ mph or at any time after a hit a bump in the road. have to slow down below 30 for it to stop.
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I have a 96 explorer 4x4 that i just bought and it has wheel shake. It also has a slight noise coming from pass front. So i jack it up and there is zero wheel play. I spin the wheel and it spins kinda freely until about 3/4 away around then it has some resistance to stop the wheel. Im thinking that could maybe a rotor a lil warped but not sure. Same wheel there are wires showing on the inside. Now i try the driver side and i cannot spin that wheel it has resistance all the time. So could this be hub or maybe just bad tire?
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My 1994 Explorer is stuck in 4 low. None of the lights are on in the dash or at the switch. I got the switch out & with a test light running I have weak power at the top left terminal better power at the 2nd, 3rd &4th on the right. No power on the opposite terminals. Is my switch bad or do I have a different problem. Also how do you remove the switch from the dash vent ?
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Working on a friend's Explorer. The car idles fine, but once he starts driving and gets to about 35 mph, second or third gear, the car loses power and eventually dies. MAF sensor replaced, no change.
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I'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
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I've replaced the fuel pump and filter, plugs and coolant temp sensor. It starts after I spray starter fluid in after a few times and cycle the key on to prime the line but is still hard to start. It runs fine and it seems that as long as the engine is warm or (guessing) fuel is still pressurized in the line it starts fine.
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The last couple of times hauling wood with a trailer, the 1994 Explorer seemed to seriously lack power. Then I noticed there was an awful grinding noise coming from the rear. My guess is that the wheel bearings are shot creating an enormous amount of extra drag, especially with the added load of the trailer. Or what else could it be? How much should I expect to pay to have bearings replaced?
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We have a 94 ford explorer and every now and again it has issues on the start up. It will sound like it will want to crank over but just won't. If we wait 20 mins it will start up no problem. We have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, and fuel pump relay but it still has this problem. Also occasionally the a/c blower wont turn on. Tonight it happened again and I pulled the fuel pump relay out and it was really hot, after it cooled down and was put back in the car started. I am beginning to think it maybe an overheating issue that is affecting the relays but am not sure. I was also wondering about changing out the relay box...
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1994 Explorer V6 100,000 miles, it is getting fuel and spark. After driving for a short/long period the engine will turn over but won't start. If you floor the gas pedal it will fire up, with a small puff of black smoke out the exhaust. Fuel pressure regulator came first to mind, and has been replaced. Problem was cured for a few days, then it started again.
Next Idle Air Control solenoid. Replaced, with same results. Replaced EGR position sensor. This worked for a few weeks. Then starting issue came back. Then I was told to replace fuel pump relay. This was the last part replaced. It had been running great. Started warm without any issues for a week. But now I have a check engine light and hot start problem again.
If the gas is floored the truck will fire. If gas is not floored the engine keeps turning and turning. I am sure it is not a fuel pump problem, as there gas fumes and the tailpipe is black. Could it be Mass AIR FLOW ?
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Most of the time, my speedometer needle is steady and in the right spot. But once in a while, it will indicate several mph too high, along with some slight fluctuation. The tach and the GPS speed remain steady. What would cause this? I would think that a worn component would cause it to indicate low or bounce around all the time. Also, where would I get a speedo drive gear with a different number of teeth, since I have 31-in. tires? I look on parts store websites and don't see any drive gears. 1994 Explorer..
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My daughter has a 94 XLT with 4 liter OHV. This the first time I have noticed a vehicle to have both an oil light and a pressure gauge. Periodically the check oil light will come on, but the gauge shows very good pressure. The oil level is full. I'm not sure what to make of this. I know the engine was replaced with a rebuild but no idea how many miles are on it now. Oil looks fairly clean tho it is due for an oil change I think.
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Its a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
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Ok, about a month ago my drivers door power window just ceased to work. (Sadly in the lowered position) I pulled the panel off, and examined the switch housing. By removing the terminals from a window that worked, and putting them in the drivers terminal, I determined that the regulator/motor assembly was bad. Fast forward to today, after wrestling with some issues, the NEW regulator/motor are installed. But here's the kicker, NO CHANGE!!! Still wont work!!! The fuse/CB is good, all other windows work. The switch test good when voltmeter applied...so now I'm stumped.
Its a 1994 explorer...
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I'm in desperate need of a wiring diagram for a 1994 explorer fuel injector wiring diagram. I am working on why my injectors are not working ( another thread) and I now need this to back trace all the wires in this loop.
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I'm converting the automatic in my 94 explorer to a M5OD-R1 five speed transmission. I got the manual wire harness from the donor truck and it plugs into the existing connectors, but it's missing a connector for the evap canister. Should I just use the automatic harness and modify it to bypass the clutch safety switch and wire a switch for backup lights? Or use the manual harness and wire the evap canister to the ecm? I'm not much of an electrician, just trying to find the correct way to do this so the truck runs good.
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Got a '94 Explorer 4WD that needs a new tranny modulator. Is there an easy way to get at it on the side of the tranny? The catalytic converter heat shield is in the way and I can't seem to get it out or gain access to the modulator area without removing the catalytic converter.
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