My 1994 Explorer is stuck in 4 low. None of the lights are on in the dash or at the switch. I got the switch out & with a test light running I have weak power at the top left terminal better power at the 2nd, 3rd &4th on the right. No power on the opposite terminals. Is my switch bad or do I have a different problem. Also how do you remove the switch from the dash vent ?
View 1 RepliesI own a 1994 Ford Taurus. One day o had made a sharp left turn and jolted my car and every since then my left blinker is constantly on. It doesn't shut off and doesn't switch to the right one. I tried the replacing the fuse with a spare one and completely took the fuse out because I can't figure out how to fix it. The handle to turn the blinker works fine and clicks in all the right places. But how do I fix this?
View 4 RepliesMy transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
View 2 RepliesWorking on a friend's Explorer. The car idles fine, but once he starts driving and gets to about 35 mph, second or third gear, the car loses power and eventually dies. MAF sensor replaced, no change.
View 2 RepliesI'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
View 3 RepliesBought a used 94 explorer xlt. It came with brand new Wrangler tires. The day we bought it we were driving home and it started shaking and wobbling at about 95kms and but seemed to improve after 115. So I took it to the tire shop next day and had all 4 tires rebalanced. The shop told me that all were out to lunch. The worst was 2 ounces out. Ok cool. Was certain that was the problem. Paid the guy and took off. Got on the highway and same damn thing. The steering seems very tight. No bangs. No knocks. Just the bloody shaking. Oh and also the abs light comes on just as it starts to shake. I don't wanna head to a garage to find out some nightmare when I get there. Want some heads up on it first.
View 2 RepliesAbout two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
I've replaced the fuel pump and filter, plugs and coolant temp sensor. It starts after I spray starter fluid in after a few times and cycle the key on to prime the line but is still hard to start. It runs fine and it seems that as long as the engine is warm or (guessing) fuel is still pressurized in the line it starts fine.
View 3 RepliesThe last couple of times hauling wood with a trailer, the 1994 Explorer seemed to seriously lack power. Then I noticed there was an awful grinding noise coming from the rear. My guess is that the wheel bearings are shot creating an enormous amount of extra drag, especially with the added load of the trailer. Or what else could it be? How much should I expect to pay to have bearings replaced?
View 9 RepliesWe have a 94 ford explorer and every now and again it has issues on the start up. It will sound like it will want to crank over but just won't. If we wait 20 mins it will start up no problem. We have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, and fuel pump relay but it still has this problem. Also occasionally the a/c blower wont turn on. Tonight it happened again and I pulled the fuel pump relay out and it was really hot, after it cooled down and was put back in the car started. I am beginning to think it maybe an overheating issue that is affecting the relays but am not sure. I was also wondering about changing out the relay box...
View 6 Replies1994 Explorer V6 100,000 miles, it is getting fuel and spark. After driving for a short/long period the engine will turn over but won't start. If you floor the gas pedal it will fire up, with a small puff of black smoke out the exhaust. Fuel pressure regulator came first to mind, and has been replaced. Problem was cured for a few days, then it started again.
Next Idle Air Control solenoid. Replaced, with same results. Replaced EGR position sensor. This worked for a few weeks. Then starting issue came back. Then I was told to replace fuel pump relay. This was the last part replaced. It had been running great. Started warm without any issues for a week. But now I have a check engine light and hot start problem again.
If the gas is floored the truck will fire. If gas is not floored the engine keeps turning and turning. I am sure it is not a fuel pump problem, as there gas fumes and the tailpipe is black. Could it be Mass AIR FLOW ?
Most of the time, my speedometer needle is steady and in the right spot. But once in a while, it will indicate several mph too high, along with some slight fluctuation. The tach and the GPS speed remain steady. What would cause this? I would think that a worn component would cause it to indicate low or bounce around all the time. Also, where would I get a speedo drive gear with a different number of teeth, since I have 31-in. tires? I look on parts store websites and don't see any drive gears. 1994 Explorer..
View 2 RepliesMy daughter has a 94 XLT with 4 liter OHV. This the first time I have noticed a vehicle to have both an oil light and a pressure gauge. Periodically the check oil light will come on, but the gauge shows very good pressure. The oil level is full. I'm not sure what to make of this. I know the engine was replaced with a rebuild but no idea how many miles are on it now. Oil looks fairly clean tho it is due for an oil change I think.
View 3 RepliesI bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
View 3 RepliesIts a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
Ok, about a month ago my drivers door power window just ceased to work. (Sadly in the lowered position) I pulled the panel off, and examined the switch housing. By removing the terminals from a window that worked, and putting them in the drivers terminal, I determined that the regulator/motor assembly was bad. Fast forward to today, after wrestling with some issues, the NEW regulator/motor are installed. But here's the kicker, NO CHANGE!!! Still wont work!!! The fuse/CB is good, all other windows work. The switch test good when voltmeter applied...so now I'm stumped.
Its a 1994 explorer...
I'm in desperate need of a wiring diagram for a 1994 explorer fuel injector wiring diagram. I am working on why my injectors are not working ( another thread) and I now need this to back trace all the wires in this loop.
View 1 RepliesI'm converting the automatic in my 94 explorer to a M5OD-R1 five speed transmission. I got the manual wire harness from the donor truck and it plugs into the existing connectors, but it's missing a connector for the evap canister. Should I just use the automatic harness and modify it to bypass the clutch safety switch and wire a switch for backup lights? Or use the manual harness and wire the evap canister to the ecm? I'm not much of an electrician, just trying to find the correct way to do this so the truck runs good.
View 3 RepliesGot a '94 Explorer 4WD that needs a new tranny modulator. Is there an easy way to get at it on the side of the tranny? The catalytic converter heat shield is in the way and I can't seem to get it out or gain access to the modulator area without removing the catalytic converter.
View 9 RepliesSometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
I have a 94 ford explorer and the back hatch leaks every time it pours rain. I noticed on the drivers side that there is a gap on the side of the hatch. Is there a way to adjust the hatch? The other side is fine.
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