Ford - Explorer :: 1994 - Missing Connector For EVAP Canister
Mar 15, 2015
I'm converting the automatic in my 94 explorer to a M5OD-R1 five speed transmission. I got the manual wire harness from the donor truck and it plugs into the existing connectors, but it's missing a connector for the evap canister. Should I just use the automatic harness and modify it to bypass the clutch safety switch and wire a switch for backup lights? Or use the manual harness and wire the evap canister to the ecm? I'm not much of an electrician, just trying to find the correct way to do this so the truck runs good.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
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Where the EVAP canister purge solenoid is located on a 1999 Ford Windstar with the 3.8 engine?? I replaced the vent valve that is located on the canister itself but cannot locate the purge solenoid valve.
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A buddy of mine has a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 3.0L, he got the code P1450 the other day and asked me to look at it. Got all the info on what it could be but where ex actually is the EVAP canister and CV solenoid located? And what is the problem?
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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I've been getting a P0442 periodically from my 97 850 wagon (base, no turbo). I've replaced the gas cap, the electrical part of the ignition switch, and all the deteriorated rubber vacuum-hose couplings I can find under the hood, but I'm still getting the code. I want to inspect the hose couplings at the evap canister, but there doesn't appear to be any way of getting to them other than removing the canister from under the car. Is there any other access to these?
Also, I've got VIDA running on my PC, and even though I've given it the VIN, it shows me the wrong evap canister in the parts diagrams. It shows the cylindrical canister, but my 850 has the rectangular canister. Where I can view accurate diagrams showing the evap components in this car?
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I took my 2008 prius with 183,000 miles in last week to have recall work done on it. they did the following:
1. Accelerator pedal recall
2. Steering shaft recall
3. Hybrid Electric water pump recall
The following day when I start my prius my check engine light comes on so I figure it was something they did on the recall work. I do have a scangauge, and the only code that showed on it was a P1304. I took it back to dealer today, and was told that it had multiple EVAP codes, and that the canister on top of gas tank is bad, and will need to be replaced. They said it was full of gas. They asked me if I stopped fueling car when pump shut off? I told them I always go to next whole dollar. They said to always stop as soon as pump shuts off(but on some pumps they shut off like crazy when pumping gas), I told them to just clear codes, and I would get back with them if I decide to have canister changed. So far check engine light has stayed off ( dealer is about 100 miles away)
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L the check engine light is on and says about the evap canister solenoid. I am trying to located it but I can't find it. So, where would it be located at so I can take it apart and where is the Canister located as well...
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An MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).
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A couple months ago, my Prius got stuck in 7 inch snow. A neighbor tow it into my driveway. I suspected and recently confirmed that some of the underbody panels got ripped off in the process. I don't have a lift easily available, and neither my oil change guys nor the Toyota dealer where I recently had it for maintenance mentioned anything about it. Are these panels basically just there to reduce drag and maybe provide some minor protection from rocks from the road, or is it important to replace them?
One of the damaged components is the passenger side front fender liner, the front part of it got ripped off. Looking through the hole, I noticed a white plastic canister (similar to the canisters that hold the windshield washer fluid, but positioned right in front of the wheel, under the headlight). It is empty and completely clean, as if it never held any fluids. From above, this canister is pretty much not visible.
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I have a '94 Ranger XLT with the 4 cylinder 2.3L motor. I recently failed my smog test here in CA because the evap system would not hold pressure. All the emissions were perfect, but it wouldn't hold pressure. I changed the fuel filler neck -- it was cracked -- but there is still a problem somewhere. Is there a diagram that shows where all the hoses are for the evap system? I'm thinking that some other hoses might be cracked since they have been there over 20 years. Is this a good place to start looking or should I be checking something else?
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I have been replacing brake lines on our old rusty Cherokee when I discovered the evap line from fuel tank is partially missing, rusted away near the back. I have never noticed raw fuel smell, but what issues will this problem cause? I will replace the line if needed which apparently involves dropping the fuel tank.
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My truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
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94 Camry, 4 cylinder. 204,000 miles. New fuel pump last year. Timing belt replaced 30K ago. Plugs and plug wires, as well as distributor cap and rotor, about 2 years old. New ignition coil about 300 miles ago. Generally very well maintained and in good shape. Today it died on the NJ Turnpike, 200 miles from home; started missing and it got progressively worse over the span of about 30 seconds to the point that the motor died. Towed to local Pep Boys (I know, but it was the only choice on a Saturday and I don't know the local area).
Mechanic says no spark but was unable to fix it. As things now stand the nearest Toyota dealer is scheduled to move the car to their shop on Monday. All the dash lights come on, including chimes and such. It will crank like a champ but will not fire up. I know this isn't giving you all much to go on, but I'm wondering if what happened could be related to the coil. Is it likely to have failed? Would replacing an old coil cause anything else to break down in the distributor?
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I have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...
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I just had my tork converter and flex plate replaced on my 2002 Explorer XLT, it has the v8 with 5 speed auto trans. My question is this : on the bottom of the bell housing under the tork converter is a round hole aprox 1 1/2 or 2 inches in diameter. Should there be a plug or cover of some sore to keed dirt and debri from getting in ?
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I have a weird intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my explorer it will idle down and die immediately, I restart and it will idle about 400-600 really rough, sounds like it is missing. When I drive it it is jerky and the acceleration is sluggish but after I get it up to about 20 mph it clears out and then drives and idles fine until I shut it down. Plus these things only happen about every third time (on average) that I drive it. Lastly it's not giving me any codes. What this could be?
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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1994 Toyota pickup... Engine misses intermittently both at idle and throughout rpm range. Cap and rotor clean,plugs read nice light brown fuel burn color- would injector cleaner in gas work.....
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My 1994 Explorer is stuck in 4 low. None of the lights are on in the dash or at the switch. I got the switch out & with a test light running I have weak power at the top left terminal better power at the 2nd, 3rd &4th on the right. No power on the opposite terminals. Is my switch bad or do I have a different problem. Also how do you remove the switch from the dash vent ?
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The other day my 2002 Sport Trac with 4.0 started to miss badly. It has only about 90,000 miles on it. It started to do this suddenly from one turn of the key to the next. It also makes a weird noice that sounds as if its coming from the intake area that can be described as a "chuffing" sound thats in time with the engine. The intake also gets very warm to the touch. We have since stopped driving it. I sprayed carb cleaner all around where the intake meets the head with no change in rpm. I also checked the plastic hose that goes behind the engine to the pcv valve and its ok.
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